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Hemingway's- Killington Vermont-Romantic Dining At Is Best!
By Norm Goldman
Very often history guides us in a realization of a place
and such was the case when we dined at Hemmingway's in Killington Vermont.
The building that houses the restaurant, known as the 1860
Asa Briggs home, was once a resting place for weary pioneers traveling through
Vermont on the Old Stage Road, now Rt. 4. It was in fact the stage coach stop on
the post road from Boston to Albany.
We had been informed by the owners of the restaurant, Ted
and Linda Fondulas, that the Briggs family provided room and board for the grand
sum of 75 cents a night.
Today, the old inn houses one of Vermont's most prestigious
dining establishments,
Hemingway's.
Moreover, when we were apprised that its chef-owner was
awarded the prestigious Robert Mondavi Award of Culinary Excellence in 2001, we
knew we were in the presence of a chef who must be a trend-setter and whose
cuisine would exemplify quality and innovation. We were not at all disappointed!
Ted Fondulas graduated as a Philosophy major from Utica
College of Syracuse University and initially, as he candidly confided to us, he
didn't intend to open a restaurant. He began his culinary career while working
with several of his uncles who own restaurants. After marrying his business
partner, Linda Santucci, the couple traveled throughout Europe developing a
passionate interest in food and wine, as well as art and literature.
Eventually, after practicing his culinary skills in many
fine restaurants throughout the world, Ted opened his dream restaurant in the
early 1980s in Killington. As he indicated, he wanted to live in a quaint
Vermont town away from the rat race of the big cities.
When he first opened Hemingway's he was not as well
received as he had anticipated. Steak and potatoes was the popular dish at the
time and an eclectic innovative menu was not exactly appreciated.
All of this has changed since the restaurant began
operations over twenty-three years ago. Not only is Hemingway's one of the most
popular dining establishments in the New England States, it is also among the
most lauded. Condé Nast Traveler has described it as one of the most romantic in
America, while Travel & Leisure has used the terms flawlessly and sophisticated
food. It has also been called by Esquire one of the most romantic restaurants in
America.
Every night Ted and his young enthusiastic side-kick and
Chef de Cuisine, Denis C. Vieira prepare a four course dinner paired with
different glasses of wine chosen to complement each course. If you prefer, you
can leave out the wine. There is also a regular menu that changes every two
weeks. Moreover, as Hemmingway's aims to satisfy everyone's palette, even
vegetarians and vegans need not worry; however, advance notice is required for
the four- course Vegetable Menu. Ted and Denis endeavor as much as possible to
showcase locally sourced ingredients and we noticed that in the back of the
dining establishment there is even a little herb garden.
Hemingway's does dinner with aplomb exhibiting the art of
the table and for a few blissful hours we had the pleasure of savoring a
brilliantly prepared five-star gourmet dining in a relaxed atmosphere. It was
quite a memorable adventure where the food was superb that was equally matched
by exacting service and a unique romantic ambience. Incidentally, Linda's
artistic and creative talents are everywhere in evidence particularly the
romantic table settings that are adorned with quirky arrangements of painted
artichokes and branches.
After we both scooped up the starter of vegetable strudel
with orange and hazelnut, we both let out a serious Mmm! This was followed by
the main dish of wild sockeye salmon from Oregon, with pea broth, asparagus and
morels, where our chefs could do no wrong, and the result- magnifico!
Among other main dish choices were House-made Cavatelli
with Confit of Duck & Peas, Pan-seared Halibut with Stew of Maine Lobster &
Spring Vegetables, Thyme-scented Organic Baby Chicken with Truffled Potatoes,
Stuffed and Wood-roasted Quail with Cippolini Onions & Braised Greens and Cedar
River Ranch all natural Sirloin of Beef with Fingerling Potatoes.
Dessert is yet another decision-making endeavor with the
many choices including a delicious coconut Bavarian with Mango Salsa or how
about a warm Brioche Pudding with Blueberries and Homemade Ice Cream.
Having dined in some of the most sought after restaurants
in the USA in the past, we had to admit to ourselves that Ted and Denis reign
supreme among chefs as they take so much pride in their food and presentation
that everything is completely perfect. And they are very hands-on in the
kitchen, so you are assured that everything will be done just right. In fact,
Ted has been included as one of seventy chefs in Superchefs published by John
Wiley and Sons, Inc-a deserving accolade.
Additional Information
Hemingway's.
US Route 4, Killington, Vermont
Reservations: 802-422-3886
Killington Chamber of Commerce
Norm Goldman is the Editor of Sketchandtravel.com and
Bookpleasures.com. He and his artist wife, Lily Azerad-Goldman meld Norm’s words
with Lily’s art work that appear in their articles.
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