Turkiye’: Istanbul & Beyond
By Robert Painter
End of the line for the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express and the beginning of
the Silk Road, Istanbul stands at the crossroads between Europe and Asia. You
can have lunch in Asia and walk across a long bridge to Europe and shop in the
Spice Bazaar in mid-afternoon.
 Istanbul, situated partly on two continents, still proudly carries the
romance of its ancient beginnings. Founded probably around 1000 BC and claimed
by Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman Empires it is a treasure trove of fascinating
and enchanting sights. The imposing Roman aqueduct and the great cisterns, the
fifth century walls that stood unpenetrated until the 13th century, the grand
mosques, the old wooden Ottoman buildings and the cobblestone streets all
combine to make this a perfect city for walking.
 I came to Turkey to travel about the country with Tribe Travel Tours, but I
arrived a few days early to explore Istanbul on my own. A good plan as it turned
out. I found enough to see and do in Istanbul to keep me occupied for weeks, not
just days. At every turn a new adventure.
I spent hours wandering about the fabled Aya Sofa, known also as the Haghia
Sofia. It was completed by the Emperor Justinian in 537 AD and was the greatest
Christian church in the world until 1453 when Mehmet the Conqueror invaded
Constantinople and converted it into a mosque. In 1934 Ataturk converted the Aya
Sofa to a museum. Close by are the Basilica Cistern, the Blue Mosque and Topkapi
Palace, all in a protected Unesco World Heritage site designation.
The Cistern’s roof is 143 meters long and 65 meters wide and is supported by
336 columns holding water brought in by aqueducts from a reservoir more than 12
miles away. Don’t be put off by the very unimpressive entrance. Once you get
inside you will be amazed by the sheer size and volume of the cistern.
 The Blue Mosque, so named for the vast array of blue tiles on the interior,
was built to rival the Aya Sofa. It has six minarets, more than any other mosque
outside of Mecca. It also has the largest courtyard of any of the Ottoman
mosques.
Before you leave Istanbul you must visit the wondrous Topkapi Palace. You
might want to view the 1964 movie (Topkapi) with Melina Mercouri & Peter
Ustinov. The plot is to steal the jewels from the Palace. When you see them in
person you’ll understand why. So don’t miss the Treasury where you’ll be able to
view the Topkapi Dagger - that’s what they wanted to steal!
 And take a boat ride on the Bosphorus It’s a splendid way to view the city
and get a good perspective of the overall layout of Istanbul.
Next stop Cappadocia, You won’t believe it until you see it. If you have
visited the Hoodoos in the Western U.S. you’ll be somewhat prepared but you’ll
still be amazed. There are many shapes and sizes here. Many were large enough to
excavate and build homes inside. It is said that groups of Christians, fleeing
from Roman persecution, found the soft volcanic tuff easily workable and
excavated their homes and chapels, in the rock. Some of the formations are
called fairy chimneys although in one area the locals call this group of
formations the “Valley of Love.” I’ll leave it to your imagination to visualize
the shape of those particular rocks! Maybe you’ll get a hint from the photo.
 Rising up out of the rock formations and chimneys in a hot air balloon is an
unforgettable pleasure. I’ve flown in the largest hot air balloon fiesta in the
world but have never had an experience like this. The pilots are skilled and
able to maneuver in between the hoodoos to give you very up close views of the
formations and the fields below. Scattered among the rocks are little farms,
many with vineyards and workers going about their chores. You’ll skim along the
surface, barely clearing the formations, then rise and return in the direction
you began. This is a memory for the rest of your life.
 Ephesus is one of the finest examples of Roman cities that you will likely
ever have the chance to visit. Be sure and walk to the top of the Great Theatre.
Then stroll along the magnificent Harbour Street. You can rent an audio guide or
hire a live one. I’ve been told that either choice is a good one. Get a live one
if you’re with a larger group and save a few dollars. You may know that the
Temple of Artemis in Ephesus was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
Next stop Pamukkale, Hierapolis and the Travertines. Check
out the beautiful white travertines - you can go in the water if you wish- and
enjoy the lovely formations of calcium carbonate (travertine) that have been
declared yet another of Turkey’s World Heritage Sites. You can follow up with a
walk through the ruins of Hierapolis, melting pot for pagans, Romans, Jews and
Christians.
 I’ll end this journey on a gulet sailing out of Fethiye,
but first let me remind you to be sure and visit a performance of Whirling
Dervishes. An ideal place to observe this ceremony is at Saruhan, but you may be
limited to a visit in Istanbul. In that case ask at your hotel. Just be sure you
go to a real sema (ceremony) and not a tourist show. The sema is an experience
that you will not soon forget.
I also want to remind you about shopping. Be sure you
packed your credit cards. When you see the extraordinary kilims, carpets and
pottery you will be sorely tempted. In the Spice Bazaar you’ll be tempted. In
the Grand Bazaar you’ll be tempted. Just remember one thing. You’re probably
6,000+ miles from home and not likely to get back here soon. My suggestion? If
you can afford it, buy it. Take home the saffron, oregano, Ceylon tea, kilim,
silk carpet or whatever captures your imagination. But, be prepared to shop,
bargain and buy wisely. There will be a carpet salesman on every corner and the
Turks are salespeople. They’ll ply you with apple tea and kind words. Relax,
enjoy the fun, take your time and take home a treasure.
 Gulet is not a very imposing name for the next big Turkish
surprise. The Aegean is full of absolutely beautiful wooden sailing ships (gulets),
most with two masts, some with three. They are beautiful, but most won’t sail -
at least not by wind power. You will be motored around the Aegean to some of the
most fabulous spots on earth. You can swim, snorkel and scuba to your heart’s
content in the richest, bluest water you can imagine. Or you can lie on the deck
and soak up the sunshine. Or you can take the tender in to the shore and hike in
the hills through miles of ruins. I can’t imagine a better way to end an
intensive two weeks of sightseeing. Three or four days relaxing and doing as
little as possible, but with plenty to do if you want. Can you imagine ending a
vacation actually relaxed? What an unusual concept.
 Before I leave you let me just say that this is the fourth
Muslim country that I have visited in the past couple of years. In each country
I felt extremely welcome and have been treated with great kindness and respect.
I think that in most countries around the world you will receive what you have
to offer. Keep on traveling.
When You Go:
Tribe Travel Tours:
www.tribetraveltours.com They will get you to all the places mentioned in
the story. Be ready for a great adventure. See the Anatolian tour.
Lonely Planet Guides:
www.lonelyplanet.com. They have books for Turkey and for Istanbul - I used
both.
Turkey Tourism:
www.tourismturkey.org.
Istanbul Official Guide:
http://english.istanbul.com/?Vst=
Story and Photos by Robert Painter |
