French Chardonnays for summer

By Darryl Beeson

Some Chardonnays, especially the more coveted, and expensive, California collectables are just too overwhelming and taste more of chewing on toothpicks, rather than enjoying grapes fresh picked. The complex power never seems to work with lighter, summer foods. The following French Chardonnay bargains succeed.

Lulu B Chardonnay, Vin de Pays d'Oc 2004
Price $8.99
Rating 89
"Only a small percentage is aged in oak to preserve its fresh and lively character," says spokesperson and MW Sheri Sauter Morano. "Showcasing the ripe, tropical fruit notes of the Chardonnay grape, this would be a great wine to pair with a grilled chicken dish. try basting the chicken with a mixture of lemon juice and tarragon."

The vineyards are located in the Limoux region of southern France with predominately clay-limestone soil. Enjoy the wine's aroma of green apple and citrus. Learn more at www.lulubwine.com.

Fat Bastard Chardonnay, Vin de Pays d'Oc 2005
Price $10.99
Rating 91
"Don't let the humorous name fool you into thinking this isn't a serious wine," observes MW Sheri Sauter Morano. "This is a modern-style wine that offers drinkers a tasty and 'fat' Chardonnay at a fantastic price."

The nose showcases a touch of vanilla, toast and rich tropical fruits. Pair this bargain with an assortment of cheeses, seafood, poultry and cream sauce pastas. Details are at www.clickwinegroup.com.

Maison Nicolas Reserve Chardonnay, France 2006
Price $6.99
Rating 89
"This is a terrific value Chardonnay from the South of France that will appeal to both your palate and your pocketbook," concludes MW Sheri Sauter Morano. "The nose and palate show off pleasing notes of tropical fruits and hints of vanilla and toast...for a wine to serve at a large summertime bash, then this would be the perfect one to choose."

Aromas of citrus and vanilla are followed by precise and clean flavors. Details are at www.nicolaswines.net.

Novellum Chardonnay, France 2006
Price $10.99
Rating 93
Because this wine is not oaked in the wine making process, numerous restaurants have made this white a "by the glass" selection that works with the entire menu selection. This luscious Chardonnay works well with food, or as a solo apertif to get the gastric juices flowing.

"The wine is 100% Chardonnay and it displays the fresh apple and pear notes common to un-oaked Chardonnay," explains MW Sheri Sauter Morano. "However it also shows hints of white flowers and apricots...it spends a short period of time of the lees of Viognier grapes, adding concentration and ample body (to) the wine." Serve with Asian stir-fry, roasted pork tenderloin, fish and most white meats.

Chardonnay, also known by the names Aubaine, Beaunois, Melon Blanc, and historically, Pinot Chardonnay, is a green-skinned grape variety used to make a white varietal wine. It is believed to be named after the village of Chardonnay in the Mâconnais region of France, where Pouilly-Fuissé is currently produced and it is possible that the variety was first bred there. DNA fingerprinting research at the University of California, Davis suggests that Chardonnay has originated as a cross between Pinot and the Croatian Gouais Blanc grape varieties. Gouais Blanc is not popular in its own right and is almost extinct.

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Darryl Beeson teaches professional wine service and knowledge for The International Sommelier Guild (www.internationalsommelier.com).