Woman on Wine
By Amy Reiley
 My
typical column tends to focus on a collection of wines that fit a theme, but on
occasion I’ve feted a single winery that makes more than a handful of noteworthy
wines. However, I’ve never taken a month to tout the work of one winemaker. And
as many of you know, in today’s wine biz, the most skilled winemakers are sought
by more than one winery, often working double and triple duty to help bring
labels, (some rivaling their own), to the head of the class.
One such vintner is Greg La Follette. Greg not only makes
his own critically acclaimed wines under the Tandem label, but also works full
time for DeLoach, helping the historic Russian River winery marry its owner’s
Burgundian taste with Californian style. On the side, La Follette also consults
for DuNah, another boutique Sonoma County operation playing the field in
Tandem’s weight class. Each winery’s style is unique and all are worth mention.
The only thing troubling me is that I can’t figure out when La Follette, who
also has several young children, finds time to sleep.
2004 Tandem Sangiacomo Chardonnay
This is the kind of wine that makes you remember the moment in which you drank
it. Sexy and feral with sweaty, yeasty, mineral notes and an impression in the
mouth that it is soft as silk, it is one of the most sensual American
Chardonnays on the market.
2004 Tandem Sangiacomo Pinot Noir
Ripe, smoky, sexy - and that only scratches the surface of the wine’s
multi-layered character. A sophisticated rendition, it is distinctly American
and signature La Follette.
2005 DuNah Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir
Distinct in its Russian River style, DuNah’s Pinot offers a wide range of aromas
from blackberry to damp, forest moss, bright, cherry flavors, lively, (almost
aggressive), acidity and a hint of cocoa powder on the finish.
2005 DuNah Chardonnay, DeDee’s Estate Vineyard
A girl with a great body, the DuNah Chard offers a Burgundian funk - as in
barnyard - on the nose, a delicious creaminess as it washes across the palate
and lingering tropical fruit flavors.
2005 DeLoach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
Classic Russian River fruit flavors like cherry, black currant and a hint of
cranberry coupled with a woodsy, almost mushroom finish make this a very evolved
wine for the price.
2005 OFS Chardonnay
Any bets on what OFS stands for? Whatever the initials, the wine is one hot
little number. A creaminess on the palate plays against tart apple flavors,
toasty oak against bright acidity. It is interesting, evolved and right for
almost any occasion. |
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