Brisbane: Now Is the Time to Visit
Australia’s Most Laid-Back City
by Larry Taylor
Now is the time to visit Australia. When it’s summer in the United States, it’s winter in Australia. At this time, prices are less, it’s less crowded and the weather is mild, particularly in sub-tropical Brisbane, the capital of Queensland state.
Many travel to Australia, spend time in Sydney and Melbourne, then, maybe, fly northeast to Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef. But consider visiting Brisbane, third largest Australian city–but with a small-town atmosphere. There is lots to experience, and it’s easy to get around, while Aussie winter temperatures are normally in the seventies.
Since now is off-season there, special tourist rates abound. Another factor, is that even in today’s economy airfares may be going down because restrictions have been lifted on flights by airlines flying from the U.S. Jonathan Day, of Brisbane Marketing, says: “We are excited about the addition of new carriers to the market and expect over the long term we will see greater competition on the routes.”
Brisbane, containing big city attractions, is refreshingly unpretentious. The City Centre, encompassed by the meandering Brisbane River which always seems to be at your elbow. Walking is the best way to explore, using, occasionally, the efficient Citytrain railway and the city bus system. What is really helpful–and a lot of fun–is Brisbane’s unique CityCat river transport. More on this later.
During our three-day stay last May, ready to see the sights, we were told the South Bank section was the place to start. From the centrally located Hilton Brisbane, we went out a side door onto the bustling outdoor Queen Street Mall. Here blocks of stores and food stalls line the walkway. A very pleasant place to stroll and browse, it can be compared to Barcelona’s famous La Rambla.
After a short walk, we took the Victoria Bridge over the river and came out in South Bank. In front of us were the Queensland Museum and adjacent Queensland Gallery of Modern Art. This is a world-class cultural complex, the museum featuring Australian painters, including Aboriginal art, as well as international artists.
We saw a special exhibition by Australian artist Gordon Bennet, whose contemporary paintings, influenced by the American Basquiat, deal challengingly with the country’s colonial past as it poses questions about today’s world.
After taking in the special exhibits, visitors should make time to go through the native and colonial artists, particularly to acquaint themselves with how painters saw the early days when the country was developing. Next door, the new modern art museum, largest in the country, houses some of the most well-known pieces of modern art from within and outside Australia.
Art can also be found in public places. Nearby the museum, there is an impressive sculpture, “Steam,” by Queensland artist Donna Marcus. It consists of 15 geodesic spheres created from 7,000 welded steam pipe pieces. According to a local, though, this piece has been re-named “Soccer Ball,” appropriately enough. This open area is often the place for free concerts. The day we were there, seats were being set up for an appearance later by world famous violinist Andre Rieu.
The handsome Queensland Performing Arts Complex is adjacent to the museum. One of the most respected cultural centers in the country, it consists of three theaters and a concert hall. Opera Queensland, Queensland Theatre Company and other performance art groups stage regular shows in the complex. In addition, Brisbane has a growing live music scene, both popular and classical.
A short walk, which included a lovely interlude through a bougainvillea-covered archway, took us down to the South Bank Parkland. A feature here is a surf beach (minus the waves, unfortunately). We saw both children and adults splashing about or relaxing and soaking up the sun–a great place to hang out on a warm day and swim for free.
This is where we hopped on CityCat, which, crisscrossing from side to side, travels up and down the river. It is a great way to see the city inexpensively in a couple hours.
Across we saw people scrambling up and down cliffs. This is Kangaroo Point, a popular picnic, rock climbing and abseiling site. The steepness of the cliffs was increased by past quarrying operations which mined the volcanic rock or rhyolite lava flows. They currently form the banks of the Brisbane River.
Cruising along, you can see changes in Brisbane’s architecture over the decades–new contrasting with old. For example, the old Brisbane Custom House, circa 1880, featuring a vintage aquamarine dome has been renovated and taken over by the University of Queensland as a place to hold events. Other old business and government buildings have been re-done as living quarters and restored as restaurants.
After our journey a few miles up and down the river, we were ready to get off and return to the Hilton to get ready for dinner, our appetites sharpened by the brisk breeze on the river.
As can be expected, there are many well-known dining spots in Brisbane, such as the award-winning Restaurant Two and Two Small Rooms. Friends, however, directed us to the West Side, a multi-cultural Bohemian area with a collection of ethnic and alternative dining spots from Indian to organic. We chose the Turkish Caravanseri and weren’t disappointed.
There were five of us sharing a Mezze (plate of hors d’oeuvres of such items as fried cheese, hummus, fried eggplant, olives) while awaiting our entrees. Several of us opted for the lamb shank, delicate with the right amount of spice. Low lighting, candles, dark woods further enhanced the atmosphere. Although our hosts were hoping to dine on the balcony with views of the city, this evening was a bit nippy.
Next day we went out Brisbane’s Chinatown for late lunch, having been told the dim sum was excellent at King of Kings Yum Cha. We concurred.
Especially for first-time visitors, save a couple hours to go out to Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. You can get there by bus or on a Minimar Boat Cruise, leaving in the morning from South Bank. This is the world's first and largest koala sanctuary, with over 130 koalas, all in natural settings. It is a wonderful way to interact with Australian’s unique wildlife. We cuddled a koala and fed the kangaroos.
If you have an extra day or two, definitely go down to the Gold Coast, some 40 miles away. As promoted, this is a surfer’s paradise with stunning beaches and fine resort hotels.
For special rates on tours in and around Brisbane this time of year, go to the sites below:
Brisbane City life: www.duatravel.com/package/destination/australia/brisbane_city_life
Brisbane and the Great Barrier Reef:
http://www.duatravel.com/package/destination/australia/the_great_barrier_reef
