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Hawaii's Hamakua CoastLife on the Big Island’s Quiet SideBy Chris Millikan
From the Palms Cliff House sign, a driveway curved gently through macadamia orchards, ending at an elegant Victorian-style Inn perching 100 feet above the ocean. Built on a former cliff side plantation, lush tropical gardens conjure opulence and seclusion. Leaving sandals at the door island-style, we entered the Inn embellished with antiques, native artifacts and photos of Hawaiian Royalty. Had we stepped back in time? The slower, quieter times of old Hawaii are elegantly recreated in guestrooms with spectacular ocean views. From deep wicker chairs on our private lanai, we watched sundown pinks and purples slowly set puffy clouds aglow; ocean “music” permeated the balmy air. A sense of unhurried gentility and satisfaction settled over us.
Complete with handrails, a paved trail loops through lush rainforest canopies. We followed the circuit, crossing wooden footbridges over gulches where little streams burbled and small waterfalls splashed merrily. We first saw Kahuna Falls, impressively high though shrouded in riotous greenery. After passing yellow ginger, purple orchids, exotic tree ferns and through immense stands of bamboo, magnificent Akaka Falls appeared. Cascading water plunged down emerald mossy walls into a deep pool, vertically dropping 422 feet. In the parking lot a local confided, “That stream below runs four miles down to a great swimming hole at Kolekole Beach. You’ll find a nice water fall and rope swing there.”
The Ocean Trail ended along a rugged coastline whipped and pounded by crashing cobalt waves. From a shady bench we spied more humpbacks plunging and leaping offshore. Munching apple-bananas, we reflected on this splendid Eden of more than 2,000 extraordinary species. Although the exotic clawlike orange and yellow heliconia delighted us, the unusual “cat’s whiskers” stole the show! Back at the Inn’s garden spa surrounded by palms, we gazed into the starry tropical sky and felt a world apart. By travelling off the beaten track, we had discovered the spirit of old Hawaii. Overlooking Pohakumanu Bay, The Palm Cliff House Inn provides a romantic retreat amid 3.5 acres of tropical splendor. www.thepalmshawaii.com Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens preserves a spectacular Hawaiian rain forest, a valley sanctuary for rare and endangered tropical plants from around the world. www.hawaiigarden.com Photo Credit: Rick Millikan |
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Travelers often overlook the rainier eastern coast on
the Big Island. But my husband and I had a glorious time on “the forgotten
side”. Our journey off the beaten track began fifteen minutes north of
Hilo.
Attention to detail suggested relaxation and grace. A
luxurious spa nestled in the windowed alcove. An ornate four-poster canopy
bed seemed fit for royalty. Acres of pillows topped a richly coloured
spread covering Italian lace-trimmed sheets. We’d found a retreat perfect
for explorations along the wild Hamakua Coast.
The owners served full gourmet breakfasts on the grand
lanai. First chatting over Kona coffee and chilled passion fruit juice, we
mentioned already sighting humpbacks frolicking in the distance. “Months
earlier,” Michele enthused, “we saw an amazing birth down there in
Pohakamanu Bay. It’s 250 feet deep and protected, a great place for a whale
nursery! Often we’ll see spinner and bottlenose dolphins off shore as
well.” On taro leaf platters, John served us thick slabs of French toast
baked with raisins and cinnamon, fresh papaya boats filled with succulent
pineapple chunks crowned with crushed mac nuts, and warm banana-nut
muffins. “All our ingredients are local, sometimes fresh from our own
property.” John noted. “Enjoy!” We were ready for adventure. 
Two miles away at Honomu, we saw Hawaii as it was in
the 1940’s. Once a thriving plantation town known as “little Chicago”, old
wooden storefronts house little snack shops and galleries; Ishigo’s (1910)
general store continues to operate. Inside, vintage photos and antiques
illustrate the town’s history. Its remarkable bakery uses recipes gleaned
from early immigrants. Opposite a beautifully preserved Buddhist temple,
the marked turnoff leads through derelict sugarcane fields to Akaka Falls,
one of Hawaii’s scenic wonders.
Exploring the popular four-mile scenic drive, we found
Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens. Starting in 1978, Dan and Pauline
Lukenhouse transformed a 25-acre sugarcane dump into a nature preserve, a
“museum of living plants.” In this one-of-a kind garden, over a mile of
scenic trails led to waterfalls, meandering streams, bamboo groves and an
infinite number of flowers. Ambling over several little stone bridges, we
wandered past labeled native plants and tropicals from all over the world.
The central Orchid Garden paraded a vibrant fleshy collection. Freckled
faces, frilly blooms and curious-tongued blossoms danced in beams of
sunshine.