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Tarpon SpringsGreek Flavours FloridaBy Chris Millikan
The waterfront showcases lively traditions. Strings of natural sponges sway gently in the breeze; bins of trinkets are everywhere. Folk music floats on air. Quirky shops offer eclectic items from shell products to elegant clothing and jewelry. Bakeries and restaurants line the streets; mouthwatering aromas beckon from painted blue and white doorways. Oldsters meet regularly in coffee shops, playing cards, smoking and reliving their glory days. Deep-sea fishing and cruise excursions depart frequently.
A delightful day ended at Mama’s Greek Cuisine. Red Boutari accompanied saganaki (flaming cheese), dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), mousaka, spanokopita (spinach pie) and keftedes (meatballs). While nibbling honeyed baklava and spooning rice pudding warm from the oven, George recounted stories of wonderful Epiphany observances held each January 6. “That joyous tradition comes right from Greece. Leaving St. Nicholas Orthodox Cathedral, a grand procession leads to Spring Bayou. Young children dress as beautiful angels with huge white-feathered wings. Our teenage boys dive for a sacred cross. The boy retrieving it becomes a champion for peace, bestowing honour to his family. Our celebration is the largest of its kind in the U.S.” Preserving traditions from the “old country”, Tarpon Springs thrives along the historic sponge docks. In the heart of this Greek community, visitors can enjoy an experience like no other. Photo credits to Rick Millikan Sirata Beach Resort accesses Florida’s fascinating Gulf
Coast. Dolphin Landings provides nearby dolphin watch and
sailboat cruises on Boca Ciega Bay. Less than an hour away lies Tarpon Springs. Its unique
Greek heritage may be sampled |
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Twelve miles north of Clearwater on Florida’s Gulf
Coast, Tarpon Springs was an unexpected pleasure. We encountered a Greek
community whose special heritage is left over from sponge fishing, a
one-of-a-kind industry. Now a National Historic District, the busy sponge
docks and colourful main-street attract thousands of visitors annually.
A simple marble wall plaque acknowledges the sponge
industry’s beginnings; a striking bronze sculpture commemorates lost divers.
Recruited from the Dodecanese Islands, the first divers arrived in 1905 to
harvest the abundant sponge beds in the Gulf of Mexico. The Greek community
thrived as the industry grew and the Mediterranean atmosphere remains
prominent. Greek school continues to transmit language, customs and
folkways to children. Elders teach Greek crafts, dance and cuisine at the
Cultural Center. 
Boarding a wooden sponge boat, we met captain George
Billiris, a fourth generation sponge producer and the industry’s elder
statesman. St. Nicholas VII took us to a demonstration sponge bed. An
on-board diver descended, dressed in an authentic 18 pound canvas and rubber
suit with 22 pound chest plate, 48 pound boots; 38 pound thick metal
helmet. Walking slowly at 45 degrees to combat currents, he soon raised his
prize high, hooked on a short rake. In the early days he would have sent
hundreds to the surface in baskets. During the tour, Captain George
explained, “the sponge beds are healthy and worldwide demand is eight times
the supply. There are over 1400 uses for natural sponge and if available,
consumers prefer them.”
Later George toured us through his vintage sponge
warehouse (1920), now a National Historic Place. He informed us, “Sponge
fishing today is no longer a father-to-son business as in the old days, but
there is exciting support to preserve the heritage, culture and economy of
this unique, sustainable industry.” Inside, huge wire bins brimmed with
sponge of all shapes and sizes. Sharp, salty air assailed our nostrils as
we wandered among boxes ready for shipping to far-away places. Holding up a
brown porous shape, George noted, “This wool sponge will last up to 5 years.
Five kinds of sponges are harvested, some for their decorative value.”