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France’s Loire Valley by BicycleBy Mary Ashcraft
One unique way to experience France’s Loire Valley is on a bicycle. An excellent base to use for such explorations is Le Vieux Moulin, a cycling center that offers expert guides, accommodations in a 15th century mill, gourmet meals, wine tastings and a close-up look at France’s glorious past along its historic Loire River.
Why should one choose to bike the Loire Valley? There are at least two very good reasons to do so. One is that the Loire Valley has one of the most beautiful, bucolic landscapes in the world The Loire also is France’s longest and most revered river and represents the very essence of French history as Medieval and Renaissance fortresses and Chateaux are reflected in its moving waters. In the southern Loire Valley, in the Berry and Bourbon regions, lies a gentler and more relaxed world of picturesque villages, ancient towns, vineyards as far as the eye can see, and lush and extremely productive farming land. Rabelais called this area, “le jardin de France”or France’s garden. Its temperate climate and long daylight summer hours, help in producing a bounty of fruit and vegetables, and its Springtime and Summer are ideal months for the biker to explore this less traveled area of France. If you have ever desired to bike a sunny, flower filled countryside all to yourself, then the Loire is the place to do it. Bikers may travel for at least a half-hour or more on backcountry roads without seeing other bikers or motor vehicles of any type.
The other very good reason for biking in “France’s garden” is Le Vieux Moulin or Old Mill, located in the small village of Jouet-Sur-L’Aubois, Pantinges, 15 miles west of the city of Nevers. The Vieux Moulin is a small French country estate, located in the heart of this idyllic landscape and is the home base for recreational bikers of all ages and degrees of expertise. The Old Mill is a classic picture of the Loire countryside. The main building rests comfortably between two bodies of water, the gently flowing river L’Abois on one side and the Berry Canal on the other. In front of the main house, a small arched bride spans the L’Abois and water Lilly pads float on its surface looking very much like Monet’s Giverny.
Le Vieux Moulin owned and operated by Frank Pettee, an American from Vail, Colorado, and his French wife Coco, is definitely a one of a kind cycling center. Biking is a passion with the French, so there are many cycling operations in France. However, Le Vieux Moulin is the only one that is home-based in a registered historic site originally built in the 15th century, with comfortable and charming accommodations decorated with French country colors and traditional patterns. The guest houses, formerly the working mill and its out buildings, have been completely remodeled and feature 12 bedrooms with private baths, two salons with wood burning fire places, and a dining area with bar. The metal heat reflector in the main fireplace, blackened by centuries of use, bears the crest of the Count who built the mill.
Here is a sampling of the schedule at Le Vieux Moulin. Bikers start the day on the road as a group between 9:00 and 9:30 each morning provided with his or her own Gitane hybrid cross bike, 21 speed, upright handlebars, helmet, water bottle, saddle bag, and maps of the areas to be covered that day. Children’s bikes are available. If you are not a pro or have not built up the appropriate calluses, make a note to bring padded cycling pants. Ouch! Frank Pettee, who has biked much in America and most of Europe, is usually up front as the leader, and young American Andrew Adams, an amazing, outstanding category-two racing cyclist makes certain the followers are okay with the pace. He also rides at the rear of the pack to lend encouraging words to the stragglers. To put Andrew’s qualifications in perspective, American Lance Armstrong, five-time winner of the Tour de France, is rated category one.
Frank likes to take his group to interesting places along the bike route to places like the Abbaye de Fontmorigny, which was affiliated, with the Cistercian Order between the 12th and 18th centuries. The bones of the church have been restored, though the walls have a decidedly rustic look still. Chamber concerts and recitals are held here because of the exceptional acoustics. Cistercians were working monks and planted a very large garden at the side of the church. The garden is open to visitors and is filled with a great many medicinal and culinary herbs.
The second day’s trip is worth noting, because it is a real challenge to the average biker. The group heads North to the hill-town village of Sancerre. The road up to this hill top village is a steady, killer climb of about three miles, but worth the effort. There’s no need to worry if you can’t peddle all the way, as there is no shame in having to push your bike when you need to. Sancerre is a delightful village of red rooftops and narrow winding alleyways, with a breathtaking view of 2350 hectares of vineyards below that produce exceptional dry fruity white wines. The village plaza is lined with shops and charming cafes and restaurants. The open air, blue canvas covered Café Des Artes is a pleasant place for a tasty light lunch. At the café, the waitresses and patrons have fun with a beginner’s French lesson as one orders from the menu. Also in the village is a school with live-in accommodations for students learning the French language. At the top of the hill town, watching over village and vineyards is the grand Sancerre Chateau. There are also opportunities for a wine tasting of Sancerre’s famous wines.
Apremont-Sur-Allier is officially recognized as, “Un des plus beaux villages de France.” ----one of the most beautiful villages in France. That is quite an accolade as France has so many beautiful villages. Located between Berry and Burgundy, Apremont-Sur-Allier is an easy riding distance from the Vieux Moulin, and bikers arrive hungry for their pique-nique on the grassy banks of the fast flowing Allier River. Frank has the tailgate of the van prepared with a French repast of pate, cheeses, fresh Loire tomatoes, potato salad, baguette, and fresh fruit. On a sunny day, there are bikers from many countries picknicking by the river alongside vacationing French families. It is hard to believe that people actually live in this perfect village of Apremont, known for its Parc Floral. The Parc Floral is in reality the fantastic flower garden of the village chateau, but open to the public several hours during the day where visitors may roam freely amongst the flowering shrubs, trees, garden beds, and under pergolas dripping with violet, pink and white wisteria. The Parc has three “follies.” One of them is a delicate structure in the style of Chinoiserie, whose oriental image is reflected in the garden’s lake. Two amusing black and white avant-guard wooden cows graze on the green lawn between pink, purple and orange azaleas. The garden is open every day from Easter to September.
One of the biking destinations is to the town of Sancoins. The early morning ride is assisted part way by van in order to arrive for an early morning visit to the large outdoor marketplace—one of the largest in France. Hundreds of stalls are scattered in the plaza and down several side streets loaded down with vegetables, sausages, pates, cheeses, wine, a color shock of flowers, CD’s, printed Linoleum by the yard, and clothing. Then there are also the regular shops and restaurants plus the cathedral where its open doors welcome you for a quiet escape from the busy crowds. One option to dining in a restaurant is to wander through the stalls gathering from the stall venders tasty treats and then stroll only a few blocks away to the canal, for a private picnic. It is to be noted that parked bikes, helmets and saddle bags are left unlocked and unattended the entire morning without fear of theft—obviously a tribute to the French country lifestyle. After the market visit, the tour continues to the sturdy Medieval Fortress Chateau of Sagonne, once owned by the Count of Bourges. The ride continues through the canopied forest of Apremont and then home base.
The grand entrance to La Charite-Sur-Loire is over a causeway into this once very important Medieval City. Near the cathedral that dates back to 1000, AD is the Priory of La Charite in Cluny Abbey. This religious complex was an important stopping place in the middle ages for pilgrims on the ancient route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Today the thriving city is known as the City of Books reflecting its many bookstores and well attended yearly book fairs. On the main square next door to the cathedral and down a few steps is a fun place to eat. La Sauvette restaurant was a wine cellar in its other life. Now, staffed by young French Rastafarians, the ancient walls rock with Donna Summer’s “I Will Survive” and the latest Hip-Hop. What do Vieux Moulin bikers do at the end of a busy day? There is plenty of time before dinner to shower, have a glass of local wine and relax on the terrace, under the trees, or in any number of tranquil, semi secluded areas scattered around the property. Another choice might be to take the glass of wine to the soothing waters of the outdoor hot tub and soak those tired leg muscles. All of this is in preparation for the Piece de resistance, the fantastic evening meal prepared by Coco Petee. Sharply at 8:00pm, the gourmet meals prepared in the finest French tradition begin. Coco does her magic with the menu. One night she might present us with Brick Truite avec tomates, herbes de Provemce, (a Moroccan speciality of Provence), Pimtade Pruneaux Paillassons, (Guinea hen), salade, (mabey, fresh greens with a vinaigrette dressing), fromage (Camembert, Bleu, Gruyere, Brie, Tom), and a finale of Mousse Au Chocolate. There is a different and memorable menu each night, and there are good regional wines to accompany the meals at an extra cost.
Getting ThereBikers arriving at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris, may take an Air France bus to the Gare de Lyon train station in the city. You do not have to be an Air France passenger to take the bus. Plan on taking the 12:30 PM train # 5973 heading south to Nevers. You may purchase the cold luncheon plate on the train, but the best option is to buy something to eat beforehand and take it with you to enjoy on the trip. When the train arrives in Nevers, Frank will be waiting to pick you up for the ride to Le Vieux Moulin. For more information, prices and bookings for Le Vieux
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