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The Aztec Heart of Mexico City Still BeatsBy Habeeb Salloum“Look! It must be one of the most breathtaking sights in the world!” Our guide motioned with his hand at the panorama of Mexico City's huge Plaza de la Constitution, better known as the Zócalo. I looked in astonishment at the sweeping vista before us. From our vantage point, the roof top restaurant of the Hotel Majestic, the gigantic square before us, teeming with life and hugged by historic buildings, was a stunning picture of the heart of Mexico.
Built atop the ruins of the Aztecs’ main temple complex, the Zócalo has witnessed a continuum of historic development since when it was first settled by the Aztecs in 1321 A.D. On this site, they developed the heart of their majestic capital, Tenochtitlán. When Cortes, the Spanish conqueror, in 1519, first set eyes on this city of 200,000, larger than any contemporary urban centre in Europe with more than 80 palaces and temples, he was dazzled.
The small colonial town grew and has evolved until, today, it is one of the world's great capitals and the oldest continuously inhabited city in the Western Hemisphere. The builders of that first colonial town in the Americas, in their wildest dreams, would never have visualized today's city of some 24 million (some say 30 million), the largest city on earth and home of some one third of Mexico’s 110 million inhabitants.
However, Cortes's city has its difficulties. The massive number of people has created formidable urban problems. Horrific traffic jams, ever-increasing shanty-towns surrounding the city, spiralling crime and the all-encompassing air pollution, have become part of daily life. The city's pollution was evident as we enjoyed our coffee atop the Majestic. Below us, the Square oozed with historic grandeur - the Metropolitan Cathedral on the north, the National Palace on the east, the City Hall on the south and old shops and hotels on the west - while above us the cloud of smog shut out the sun. “It's the story of humankind! Man builds majestic structures while at the same time destroying nature. Just look at that dark cloud above us!” Our guide summed up his city well as we left the Majestic with its excellent view of Mexico's heart.
We entered the immense house of the One God, who had overwhelmed and totally destroyed the Aztec gods, to find that the Cathedral had been totally renovated. As we walked around, what struck me profoundly was the gold, seemingly everywhere. It was as if the renowned Aztec gold had changed allegiance, from temples to churches. But had it? Even the sinking of the Cathedral had been somewhat arrested. Most of the early Mexican churches are sinking into the spongy soil on which Mexico City is built. Perhaps, Monctezuma and Quetzalcoatl have not yet been totally defeated. From the Cathedral we rambled to the National Palace on the east side of the Square. Occupying the exact site of Monctezuma's former palace, it is one of the oldest government seats in the world, still housing the President's office and the Ministry of Finance. The only survivor of 17th century architecture, it was originally built in 1693. We walked up the stairs to view the renowned Diego Rivera Murals, blazing the inner hallways of the building. Truly breathtaking, they depict five centuries of Mexican history. Rivera worked for six years to complete these vibrant frescoes which many art experts consider to be his greatest work. Very impressive in their grandeur, they are well worth a visit by every tourist who travels to Mexico City. We ended our tour at the Temple Mayor archaeological site at the northeast corner of the Zócalo. Here was the heart of the great city of Tenochtitlán - the main ceremonial pyramid of that Aztec city. It was discovered in 1978 when electrical workers unearthed an eight ton stone disk carving of the Aztec goddess Coyolxauhqui.
As we walked away from the Aztec remains to join the milling masses crowding the Zócalo, I thought of Mexico's indigenous peoples, Conquistadors and their mixed descendants who are today's Mexicans. As if reading my thoughts, our guide commented, “Look around you! Our people have absorbed many races from Aztecs and Spaniards to many other Europeans and peoples from other lands. These faces and this Square, with its structures, tell the story of our country.” Facts About Mexico City:1) To enter Mexico, visitors only need a tourist permit (tarjeta de turista) which is free and available through airlines or Mexican consulates and government tourism offices. Also, a customs declaration form must be filled out by all incoming travelers. 2) Currency can be exchanged at banks or exchange houses (casas de cambio) at the airport or in town. Acceptance of US dollars is not uncommon, although change may be given in pesos - currently US$1. around 11 pesos. 3) The simplest and easiest way to reach the city centre from Mexico City's Benito Juárez International Airport is by taxi - cost about $15. 4) Small cars, fully insured with unlimited mileage, rent for about $70. per day. Beware! It is not easy to drive in Mexico City. 5) For visits joining some of the many tours offered is the best way to see the city sites. A good tour Company is Cultour, which offers a half day City Tour for $30.; the pyramids of Teotihuacán and Guadalupe Shrine $32.; Taxco and Cuernavaca $48; and Xochimilco and University City $30. 6) There are good people's transportation systems - buses and subways cost approximately 20 cents to anywhere in the city, but beware! They are always crowded. For taxis take those from hotels or ones called by telephone. While in Mexico CitySome of the Sites Not Mentioned Which Should Not be Missed: Travellers to Mexico City should not miss seeing: The National Museum of Anthropology, featuring 5,000 years of Mexican history, it is considered one of the finest of its kind anywhere on the globe; Chapultepec Park, housing an unparalleled collection of world-class museums amid acres of woods and gardens; Zona Rosa, an elegant neighbourhood of boutiques, hotels, restaurants, nightclubs and cafes; Palace of Fine Arts, a marble palace which is the home of the world-famous Ballet Folklorico; and House of Tiles, one of the most beautiful baroque buildings in Mexico. Where to Stay in Mexico City:Mexico City has hundreds hotels to satisfy all tastes. One of the best hotels to make your abode is the Sheraton Maria Isabel. Located in the heart of the financial and shopping district, edging the Zona Rosa, it is a luxury hotel with 755 rooms, which include luxurious suites and penthouses as well as other types of rooms. Paso de la Reforma 325, Mexico D.F. Tel: 52-55-5242-555. Fax: 52-55-5207-0684. E-Mail: smi@sheraton-maria-isabel.com Website: www.sheraton.com/mexicocity Cost of a standard room, $189.; Executive room, $234. Note: All prices quoted are in US dollars. For Further Information, Contact: In Canada contact the Mexican Tourism Board - 2 Bloor St. West, Suite 1502, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2. Toll free number: 1 800 44 MEXICO. Web: www.visitmexico.com or Fax: 416/925-6061; in the U.S.A. 21 East 63rd Street, 3rd Floor, New York, NY 10021, Tel: (212) 821-0314. Fax: (212) 821-0367. E-mail: newyork@visitmexico.com |
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The womb, which gave birth to the
country, the Zócalo, is the second largest square in the world. It is a
remarkable showplace of the history of this highest city, geographically, on
the North American continent - sitting in the clouds 2200 m (7,350 ft)
high. 
After the Spanish conquest, all
these structures were razed and from their stones a new city was built
around the Square. The structures were erected on the exact sites and used
for the same functions as the demolished buildings of the Aztecs, and beyond
them the city grew - the part of Mexico City, known today as ‘Centro
Historico’, filled with colonial buildings and historic sites. Alexander Von
Humboldt, the German scientific traveller, in the 19th century, referring
to the many majestic buildings in this historic section, called Mexico City,
“the City of Palaces’. 
The cradle of North American
civilization, it is the country's dynamic, cultural, political and
commercial core. At every turn, the city displays remains of Aztec
civilization, superb colonial buildings and modern skyscrapers. Its
archaeological sites, world-famous museums, grand shopping plazas, fine
restaurants and many cultural attractions make it an exciting city vibrating
with life. 
Joining the mass of humanity in the
Zócalo, we began our exploration of the bordering grand historic buildings.
From the west side of the Square, with its countless stores, dominated by
jewellery outlets, we crossed to the northern edge to examine the mammoth
Metropolitan Cathedral. The largest church in all of Latin America, it was
built atop the remains of an Aztec pyramid. Begun in the late 16th century,
it took 250 years to complete - in the process becoming a mosaic of
architectural designs. These are accented by the adjoining parish church, El
Sagrario, built in 1749 in churrigueresque (a type of baroque) style.
Two square city blocks have been
excavated but work is continuing. The most recent discovery was two large
chambers containing over 61 m (200 ft) of decorative carvings. In addition
to the remains uncovered on the site, 3,000 unearthed artifacts are on
display at the excellent nearby museum. 