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Brunello di Montalcino- Best Current Releases
By Darryl Beeson
Brunello di Montalcino was the first Italian wine to be
granted Denominazione di Origine Controlata e Garantita (D O C G) status by
the Ministry of Agriculture. There are only 19 DOCG wines, a coveted status
which limits fruit per hectare (eight tonnes), and at least 36 months of
barrel aging and one year in the bottle. For riserva wines the bottle aging
must be a minimum of two years. At its finest, Brunello di Montalcino is
considered one of the world's most important wines.
Brunello is the local name for the sangiovese grape or,
more accurately, for a handful of mutants of sangiovese. Berry and cluster
sizes range from small to medium in what is ironically referred to as
sangiovese grosso.
Castello di Banfi Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1999
Price $58
Rating 93
A reserved nose leaning more towards earth rather than
fruit, and then there are flavors of bright red and black cherry, tar, earth
and even more beautiful, ripe fruit through the long finish.
Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1998
Price $70
Rating 94
There are aromas of truffle and freshly tilled earth,
then flavors of earthy black cherry throughout the long, ripe length.
Capanna Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1999
Price $50
Rating 92
There are aromas of complex black fruit and mineral,
then flavors of complex ripe fruits.
Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Reserva, Tuscany 1998
Price $75
Rating 94
At first there is an exotic nose of dark fruit, Asian
spice and earth all leading the way, then flavors of a complex array of ripe
fruit with great length.
Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany
1999
Price $55
Rating 93
Pleasing aromas of red fruit and subtle menthol are
followed by flavors of concentrated red fruit with long length and
complexity.
Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino Reserva,
Tuscany 1997
Price $90
Rating 96
First there is a hottish, vibrant nose of ripe red
fruit and subtle earth, then flavors of concentrated red fruit, almost jammy,
with anise and exotic spice, black pepper and a resounding, long length.
Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1999
Price $55
Rating 93
There is an intense nose of spice, concentrated fruit
and subtle tar, then flavors of ripe red fruit, pommegranite, and subtle
earth.
Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1998
Price $55
Rating 89
A mineral driven nose, with a little SO-2 to blow off
in time, is followed by flavors of ripe plum, and other ripe fruit with good
length.
Castello di Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany
1999
Price $55
Rating 90
A sip reveals concentrated red fruit flavors with a
pleasant but unusual nuance, almost like ripe tomato.
Castello di Camigliano "Gualto" Brunello di Montalcino,
Tuscany 1998
Price $65
Rating 93
There are flavors of dark fruit with hints like tree
bark. This is a huge wine needing time to show its potential.
Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino,
Tuscany 1999
Price $55
Rating 90
This red is packed with jammy, red fruit and is very
approachable for such a young vintage. Where's the muscle?
Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino,
Tuscany 1998
Price $55
Rating 92
First there are aromas of wild strawberry and subtle
earth, then zesty flavors of bright red fruit with more subtle earth in the
good length.
Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1998
Price $55
Rating 90
With red fruit and briar-like flavors, this red is very
ripe and approachable.
Gorelli Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany
Price $60
Rating 93
Earth ladened aromas with delicate black fruit, then
flavors of concentrated red fruit with mineral notes and good length.
Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1999
Price $55
Rating 93
With earthy aromas and then flavors of bright red
cherry, this red wine is concentrated and very approachable.
Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1998
Price $55
Rating 94
A sip showcases bright flavors of both red and black
fruit, concentrated and complex. The length is long and vibrant.
Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1999
Price $65
Rating 94
Vibrant flavors of black fruit and anise are laced with
mineral and more concentrated fruit in the long length.
Fastelli Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1999
Price $65
Rating 93
In this wine, look for elegant red fruit flavors along
with mulberry, subtle and earthy tar, as well as complex black fruit in the
long finish.
Solaria Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1999
Price $60
Rating 93
Notice the bright red fruit flavors; Red cherry,
cranberry and sort of sour strawberry hints are in this complex and ripe
Brunello.
Tenute Sulvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany
1999
Price $50
Rating 94
There are inviting aromas of subtle fruit and freshly
tilled soil, then flavors of concentrated red and black fruit, truffle and
mineral in the long, complex length.
Tenute Sulvio Nardi "Manachiara" Brunello di Montalcino,
Tuscany VINTAGE?
Price $65
Rating 95
There are powerful flavors of black cherry, currant,
mulberry and freshly tilled earth in the velvet hammer of a Brunello.
Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine
values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion
on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or
secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee
sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for
numerous publications.
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