Travellady MagazineTM


I dream of August in New Orleans

By Madelyn Miller, the TravelLady

As I write this in April in New Orleans, I can hardly wait to come for August.

Not the hot, humid month, but the delicious Restaurant August on Tchoupitoulas Street.

To me, this is the Must Try Restaurant in this city of fabulous restaurants. Creative combinations, the freshest ingredients, and an inspired chef who changes the menu weekly, makes this a place you want to come back to again and again.

The foodie dining alone at the next table was a Canadian architect who finds himself in New Orleans monthly for a long term project. He told me that this is the restaurant he visits on each trip. The smart (and lucky) man was staying at the attached hotel, Loft 523, a place I had hoped to stay at, but was full when I was making reservations. Just another good reason to come back to New Orleans.

The tasting menu ($50 or $85 with wine) is the best way to go if you like a variety of tastes. The most exciting part of the menu is the dessert flights, offering 5 flavor samples for $10. I almost did myself in by trying both the Chocolate Tasting and the City of New Orleans –each an exciting combination of tastes and flavors. Good thing I did not eat dessert first—or I would have missed all the other delicious things at Restaurant August.

Restaurant August: A Classic on the Cutting Edge

How does John Besh, Executive Chef of Restaurant August, an august establishment in the venerable dining town that is New Orleans – and currently listed in Gourmet magazine’s “Guide to America’s Best Restaurants -- keep it fresh?  Here are just a few of the lively concepts that contribute to Besh’s reputation for wit and wonder in the kitchen:

Chef Besh is known for his playful presentation, creating visual puns on the plate.  For his dinner at The James Beard House this year, Besh accompanied his third course of American Kobe Beef rib-eye, short rib, marrow, and oxtails with a trompe l’oeil “marrow bone” potato, artfully carved and cleverly cooked to fool and delight the diners. 

The menu is constantly changing, and Chef Besh is fond of taking a single ingredient and incorporating it into all aspects of a multi-course meal.  Recently, for example, he offered a menu using Pontchatoulas strawberries throughout -- not just for dessert, where you’d expect to find them...

Restaurant August offers one of the few artisanal cheese plates in New Orleans as a dessert course – a tradition very dear to John Besh’s heart.  Chef Besh selects four farmstead cheeses to serve daily, based on seasonality.  He groups his selections with a delicate sense of what region each is from, as well as from what kind of milk they’re made, often yielding a plate with four distinctly different textures, from soft and semi-soft to hard.

The Restaurant August dessert menu, created by Pastry Chef Kelly Fields, offers a selection of tastings on a given theme.  For example, “The City of New Orleans” includes samplings of three variations on New Orleans classics: Bread Pudding; Cheese Cake; and a Café au Lait Pot de Crème.  The Crescent City Farmer’s Market dessert varies frequently, according to what is available any given day at the local markets – it might include Strawberry, Rhubarb, and Ginger Cobbler; Chocolate Fondant Cake with Passion Fruit Curd and Strawberry Tawny Port Sorbet; and Pan-fried Lime Mascarpone Custard with a Balsamic, Strawberry and Mint Salad.  A Non-fat Yogurt Dessert is great for those counting calories:  a Green Apple and Vanilla Yogurt Mousse; Frozen Vanilla Bean Yogurt over seasonal fruit; and a Banana Pineapple Smoothie.  There is even a Chocolate Tasting dessert featuring Dark Chocolate Pepper Cake; a Milk Chocolate, White Chocolate Espresso Tart; Dark Chocolate Paté with Crème Fraiche; and a Trio of Chocolate Truffles. 

Note that Chef Fields is a proponent of desserts that are remarkably “un-sweet” for traditional New Orleans, favoring natural herbs and spices for flavors on the savory side – a nice complement to the unconventional pairing of sweets and savories in Chef Besh’s menus at Restaurant August.

Restaurant August
301 Tchoupitoulas St at Gravier
504-299-9777
www.rest-august.com/

For More Information on What to do Between Meals

HELPFUL WEBSITE
www.neworleanscvb.com
www.neworleansonline.com

WHERE TO STAY
Chateau Sonesta Hotel New Orleans
800 Iberville Street
New Orleans, LA 70112 504-586-0800
800-SONESTA
http://www.sonesta.com/neworleans_chateau/

Renaissance Arts Hotel
700 Tchoupitoulas Street
New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 USA
Phone:   1-504-613-2330
Fax:   1-504-613-2331
Toll-free:   1-800-431-8634

What I Wish I Had Known Before I Went to New Orleans

There are two kinds of people who go to New Orleans, those who want to party and those who don’t. If you don’t plan to stay up all night, be sure to express that preference when you check in and request a quiet room, perhaps on a courtyard. Or consider staying outside the quarter if you value a good night’s sleep.

I stayed at a to-be-nameless hotel (not in either of the two hotels recommended above) in the quarter and called down to the front desk because of all the noise. They were prepared. They sent up earplugs. That was not enough. Two sleeping pills and six hours later, I learned there was a long list of people who wanted to change rooms. I waited (and slept) all day in my room waiting for another room, wanting to be sure not to loose my place on that special list. The helpful front desk person told me that more people than usual had called down to complain the night before.

BEST PLACE TO GET ONLINE FOR FREE
201 St. Charles in the food court Monday to Friday 9am to 4pm

GREAT GUIDEBOOKS
FEET ON THE STREET
Rambles Around New Orleans
By Roy Blount, Jr.
Crown Journeys
www.randomhouse.com

INSIGHT GUIDES NEW ORLEANS
From Discovery Channel
www.insightguides.com

ACCESS NEW ORLEANS
HarperResource/Access Press
www.harpercollins.com

NEW ORLEANS
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES
Over 700 pictures
DK PUBLISHING
WWW.dk.com

EATING NEW ORLEANS
From French Quarter Creole Dining to the Perfect Poboy
By Pableaux Johnson
Countryman Press
www.countrymanpress.com

2005 NEW ORLEANS RESTAURANTS
With bonus Nightlife section
ZagatSurvey
www.zagat.com

STORIES IN STONE: A Field Guide to Cemetery Symbolism and Iconography
Written and photographed by Douglas Keister
Dead men may tell no tales, but their tombstones do—and now there is a book that will help anyone become an expert on just what it is they are trying to tell us. Graveyard tours and funerary architecture are HUGE in New Orleans so you may want to study up.
Gibbs Smith, Pubisher
www.gibbs-smith.com

MOST LITERARY TIME TO PLAN YOUR VISIT
The Tennessee Williams/New Orleans Literary Festival celebrates its 20th anniversary, March 29 to April 2, 2006. Weather is cool, reception is warm, topic is hot.

BEST FICTIONAL BOOK ABOUT NEW ORLEANS RESTAURANT SCENE
Prime
By Poppy Z. Brite
Three Rivers Press
www.crownpublishing.com

HELPFUL MAP
MAPQUEST NEW ORLEANS City Map . This large scale detailed street map folds up to 2”x3”

BEST SPA
EarthSavers.
Several locations and all good for you and the environment. My manicure lasted for three weeks—a record for this frequent traveler who is moving luggage constantly and typing on my computer.
http://www.travellady.com/Issues/April05/1353ForgetVoodoo.htm

BEST SHOPPING ADVICE
And Madelyn’s favorite stores
http://www.travellady.com/Issues/May05/1351Iatesomuch.htm

I’ll DRINK TO THAT
The Museum of the American Cocktail is dedicated to providing education in mixology and preserving the rich history of the American Cocktail. The exhibit is on display at the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum at 514 Chartres Street, now through September 2005- over two hundred years of cocktail memorabilia from the outstanding collections of the founders.

BEST WALKING TOUR
The Scandals Tour

Another Great Tour
Since July of 2004, City Segway Tours has been gliding through the city of New Orleans offering a new way for tourists and residents to visit the popular historical sites of this fabulous city. The 3-4 hour tour begins at the golden Joan of Arc statue in front of the office, then heads to Governor Nicholls Street Wharf before moving along the riverfront through Woldenberg Park to the Aquarium of the Americas and Harrah's Casino. Riders then take the ferry across the river to Algiers Point, glide down the Jazz Walk of Fame to visit Mardi Gras World and through the streets of Algiers. The tour crosses the river again, heads down the Riverwalk to end back at the Joan of Arc statue.

If you are not familiar with the Segway HT, it is the first self-balancing, electric-powered transporter designed to enhance the productivity of people by increasing the distance they travel and the amount they can carry. The Segway HT uses a breakthrough technology called dynamic stabilization, enabling it to work seamlessly with the body's movements. It operates in any pedestrian environment and is perfect for City Segway Tour purposes.

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