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TM
I dream of August in New Orleans
By Madelyn Miller, the TravelLady
As I write this in April in New Orleans, I can hardly wait
to come for August.
Not the hot, humid month, but the delicious Restaurant
August on Tchoupitoulas Street.
To me, this is the Must Try Restaurant in this city of
fabulous restaurants. Creative combinations, the freshest ingredients, and an
inspired chef who changes the menu weekly, makes this a place you want to come
back to again and again.
The foodie dining alone at the next table was a Canadian
architect who finds himself in New Orleans monthly for a long term project. He
told me that this is the restaurant he visits on each trip. The smart (and
lucky) man was staying at the attached hotel, Loft 523, a place I had hoped
to stay at, but was full when I was making reservations. Just another good
reason to come back to New Orleans.
The tasting menu ($50 or $85 with wine) is the best way to
go if you like a variety of tastes. The most exciting part of the menu is the
dessert flights, offering 5 flavor samples for $10. I almost did myself in by
trying both the Chocolate Tasting and the City of New Orleans –each an exciting
combination of tastes and flavors. Good thing I did not eat dessert first—or I
would have missed all the other delicious things at Restaurant August.
Restaurant August: A Classic on the Cutting Edge
How does John Besh, Executive Chef of Restaurant August, an
august establishment in the venerable dining town that is New Orleans – and
currently listed in Gourmet magazine’s “Guide to America’s Best Restaurants --
keep it fresh? Here are just a few of the lively concepts that contribute to
Besh’s reputation for wit and wonder in the kitchen:
Chef Besh is known for his playful presentation, creating
visual puns on the plate. For his dinner at The James Beard House this year,
Besh accompanied his third course of American Kobe Beef rib-eye, short rib,
marrow, and oxtails with a trompe l’oeil “marrow bone” potato, artfully carved
and cleverly cooked to fool and delight the diners.
The menu is constantly changing, and Chef Besh is fond of
taking a single ingredient and incorporating it into all aspects of a
multi-course meal. Recently, for example, he offered a menu using Pontchatoulas
strawberries throughout -- not just for dessert, where you’d expect to find
them...
Restaurant August offers one of the few artisanal cheese
plates in New Orleans as a dessert course – a tradition very dear to John Besh’s
heart. Chef Besh selects four farmstead cheeses to serve daily, based on
seasonality. He groups his selections with a delicate sense of what region each
is from, as well as from what kind of milk they’re made, often yielding a plate
with four distinctly different textures, from soft and semi-soft to hard.
The Restaurant August dessert menu, created by Pastry Chef
Kelly Fields, offers a selection of tastings on a given theme. For example,
“The City of New Orleans” includes samplings of three variations on New Orleans
classics: Bread Pudding; Cheese Cake; and a Café au Lait Pot de Crème. The
Crescent City Farmer’s Market dessert varies frequently, according to what is
available any given day at the local markets – it might include Strawberry,
Rhubarb, and Ginger Cobbler; Chocolate Fondant Cake with Passion Fruit Curd and
Strawberry Tawny Port Sorbet; and Pan-fried Lime Mascarpone Custard with a
Balsamic, Strawberry and Mint Salad. A Non-fat Yogurt Dessert is great for
those counting calories: a Green Apple and Vanilla Yogurt Mousse; Frozen
Vanilla Bean Yogurt over seasonal fruit; and a Banana Pineapple Smoothie. There
is even a Chocolate Tasting dessert featuring Dark Chocolate Pepper Cake;
a Milk
Chocolate, White Chocolate Espresso Tart; Dark Chocolate Paté with Crème Fraiche;
and a Trio of Chocolate Truffles.
Note that Chef Fields is a proponent of desserts that are
remarkably “un-sweet” for traditional New Orleans, favoring natural herbs and
spices for flavors on the savory side – a nice complement to the unconventional
pairing of sweets and savories in Chef Besh’s menus at Restaurant August.
Restaurant August
301 Tchoupitoulas St at Gravier
504-299-9777
www.rest-august.com/
For More Information on What to do Between Meals
HELPFUL WEBSITE
www.neworleanscvb.com
www.neworleansonline.com
WHERE TO STAY
Chateau Sonesta Hotel New Orleans
800 Iberville Street
New Orleans, LA 70112 504-586-0800
800-SONESTA
http://www.sonesta.com/neworleans_chateau/
Renaissance Arts Hotel
700 Tchoupitoulas Street
New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 USA
Phone: 1-504-613-2330
Fax: 1-504-613-2331
Toll-free: 1-800-431-8634
What I Wish I Had Known Before I Went to New Orleans
There are two kinds of people who go to New Orleans, those
who want to party and those who don’t. If you don’t plan to stay up all night,
be sure to express that preference when you check in and request a quiet room,
perhaps on a courtyard. Or consider staying outside the quarter if you value a
good night’s sleep.
I stayed at a to-be-nameless hotel (not in either of the
two hotels recommended above) in the quarter and called down to the front desk
because of all the noise. They were prepared. They sent up earplugs. That was
not enough. Two sleeping pills and six hours later, I learned there was a long
list of people who wanted to change rooms. I waited (and slept) all day in my
room waiting for another room, wanting to be sure not to loose my place on that
special list. The helpful front desk person told me that more people than usual
had called down to complain the night before.
BEST PLACE TO GET ONLINE FOR FREE
201 St. Charles in the food court Monday to Friday 9am to 4pm
GREAT GUIDEBOOKS
FEET ON THE STREET
Rambles Around New Orleans
By Roy Blount, Jr.
Crown Journeys
www.randomhouse.com
INSIGHT GUIDES NEW ORLEANS
From Discovery Channel
www.insightguides.com
ACCESS NEW ORLEANS
HarperResource/Access Press
www.harpercollins.com
NEW ORLEANS
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES
Over 700 pictures
DK PUBLISHING
WWW.dk.com
EATING NEW ORLEANS
From French Quarter Creole Dining to the Perfect Poboy
By Pableaux Johnson
Countryman Press
www.countrymanpress.com
2005 NEW ORLEANS RESTAURANTS
With bonus Nightlife section
ZagatSurvey
www.zagat.com
STORIES IN STONE: A Field Guide to Cemetery Symbolism
and Iconography
Written and photographed by Douglas Keister
Dead men may tell no tales, but their tombstones do—and now there is a book that
will help anyone become an expert on just what it is they are trying to tell us.
Graveyard tours and funerary architecture are HUGE in New Orleans so you may
want to study up.
Gibbs Smith, Pubisher
www.gibbs-smith.com
MOST LITERARY TIME TO PLAN YOUR VISIT
The Tennessee Williams/New Orleans Literary Festival celebrates its 20th
anniversary, March 29 to April 2, 2006. Weather is cool, reception is warm,
topic is hot.
BEST FICTIONAL BOOK ABOUT NEW ORLEANS RESTAURANT SCENE
Prime
By Poppy Z. Brite
Three Rivers Press
www.crownpublishing.com
HELPFUL MAP
MAPQUEST NEW ORLEANS City Map . This large scale detailed street map folds up to
2”x3”
BEST SPA
EarthSavers.
Several locations and all good for you and the environment. My manicure lasted
for three weeks—a record for this frequent traveler who is moving luggage
constantly and typing on my computer.
http://www.travellady.com/Issues/April05/1353ForgetVoodoo.htm
BEST SHOPPING ADVICE
And Madelyn’s favorite stores
http://www.travellady.com/Issues/May05/1351Iatesomuch.htm
I’ll DRINK TO THAT
The Museum of the American Cocktail is dedicated to providing education in
mixology and preserving the rich history of the American Cocktail. The exhibit
is on display at the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum at 514 Chartres Street, now
through September 2005- over two hundred years of cocktail memorabilia from the
outstanding collections of the founders.
BEST WALKING TOUR
The Scandals Tour
Another Great Tour
Since July of 2004, City Segway Tours has been gliding through the city of New
Orleans offering a new way for tourists and residents to visit the popular
historical sites of this fabulous city. The 3-4 hour tour begins at the golden
Joan of Arc statue in front of the office, then heads to Governor Nicholls
Street Wharf before moving along the riverfront through Woldenberg Park to the
Aquarium of the Americas and Harrah's Casino. Riders then take the ferry across
the river to Algiers Point, glide down the Jazz Walk of Fame to visit Mardi Gras
World and through the streets of Algiers. The tour crosses the river again,
heads down the Riverwalk to end back at the Joan of Arc statue.
If you are not familiar with the Segway HT, it is the first
self-balancing, electric-powered transporter designed to enhance the
productivity of people by increasing the distance they travel and the amount
they can carry. The Segway HT uses a breakthrough technology called dynamic
stabilization, enabling it to work seamlessly with the body's movements. It
operates in any pedestrian environment and is perfect for City Segway Tour
purposes.
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