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Bratislava - the best kept secret of Central EuropeHow one of the oldest cities in Europe became the youngest capitalBy Vladia Jurcova
The Danube River tells it allBratislava is a smaller, quiet and more relaxed sister of Prague with less tourists and traffic. Every day, you find friendly locals strolling through the narrow streets of Stare Mesto (the Old Town), people-watching from pleasant little cafes, and enjoying coffee or pivo (beer). One of the popular ways to sightsee the city is by boat. Thanks to the Danube river, around 907 AD, the first inhabitants settled here and built a fort on an ancient rock called Devin, ruins of which are preserved and opened to the public. Over the centuries, the central location of the city attracted royal families, such as the Hapsburgs who turned a provincial city into a prosperous capital of their kingdom, and their influence is still present in modern laws and conventions and many customs. Since those days, eleven monarchs, including the powerful empress Maria Theresa, started their journey here as massive St. Martin's cathedral, built in the 13th century and standing till present, became the coronation center for the Austrian Hungarian Empire.
Old baroque town wears its modern dressBratislava is also called the youngest capital of Europe. It’s not just its age that makes Slovak capital young, Bratislava is home to one of the oldest European universities, the Academia Istropolitana (1465) which was joined by Comenius University in the early 20th century to establish the city as the true capital of education.
What the Slovaks eat and drink
Draft beer in Bratislava is cheap ($1.50) and if accompanied by Slovak soul food, one can still stay on a budget of $10. Try the underground pub called KGB, a reminder of the recent Soviet occupation, where local patrons meet after work for fried cheese, wiener schnitzel and beer in a buzzing underground atmosphere.
Charming time of EasterThe Slovak nation is also well-know for its love for culture and traditions. Among the traditions that were not destroyed by communism is Easter. Traditionally a pagan holiday, Easter symbolizes the awakening of nature from its winter sleep. In Slovakia, year after year, on Easter Monday, boys and their fathers go from door to door carrying bottles of perfume and whips braded from willows and decorated with ribbons and colored eggs. Traditionally they have to water and whip all the females in the household for which they receive a “reward.” It was believed that the vitality from the young twigs entwined in the whip would flow into the woman's body. After watering the body it could flourish into beauty and be healthy and fertile the coming year.
But Easter in Slovakia also means traditional food such as such smoked ham, boiled eggs, and pickled cucumbers. Easter masses and processions with the Maypole provide for an opportunity to dress up in traditional folk outfits and march the streets to drive the devil away. My grandma would take me to church on Easter to show me the beautiful flower arrangements, bring small bunches of pussy willows and see other religious decorations that were showcased every year in our Catholic Church. Where to stay
Vladia Jurcova Images by Peter Bircak and Monika Sulakova |
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TM
Growing
up in communist Czechoslovakia, traveling abroad was more or less out of the
question, and thus my city became my universe. Influences of the opulent past
and bold visions of the future combined their powers to partly destroy and
partly preserve the uniqueness of my universe, called Bratislava. Although
located only 35 miles north from Vienna on the Danube river, not too many
visitors of Europe head for this interesting and affordable destination, and
thus Bratislava is the best kept secret of Central Europe. Or at least it was
until the recent Bratislava Summit of Presidents Bush and Putin on February 24,
2005.
Several
masters, some cruel and others enlightened, discovered, conquered and ruled this
diverse and fertile piece of land mostly inhabited by Slavs and Germans. Among
the masters of art and war, Mozart and Napoleon were charmed by the peacefulness
of Bratislava. Today, many have forgotten Bratislava’s legendary past, and many
don’t even know that it is the capital of Slovakia, one of the newest
democracies and fastest growing economies in Central Europe, established in 1993
after a peaceful divorce from Czech Republic.
The
center of modern Bratislava is the Old Town and its heart Hlavne namestie
(square) is dominated by the historic Town Hall, where much of Bratislava’s
history has been made. This reminder of the past proudly faces the most popular
establishments of present. The Dubliner Irish Pub is the most eclectic hang-out
spot in the city, and Vienna coffee lovers flock to upscale Café Mayer for a
classy cup of coffee. However, the most photographed attraction is Cumil, a
bronze statue of man peeking under women’s skirts from a manhole. The Slovak
National Theater, located in a lively park/square surrounded by princely
palaces, trendy restaurants and posh hotels, rivals any renowned European opera
houses with its legendary opera productions. Since the 1st century, the Old Town
has been protected by Bratislava castle; its unique design reminds one of an
up-side-down chair above the Danube river.
The
accessibility of all the attractions in Bratislava is priceless. However, part
of the old city was destroyed when the leaders of the communist regime decided
to build a bridge to connect the Old Town with the newest addition of
Bratislava. This unfortunate choice for the location of the new bridge (next to
the Bratislava castle) meant destroying priceless heritage. Almost all of the
Jewish quarter that flourished for more than two centuries in the middle of the
town was demolished, including a beautiful synagogue. As the conditions of the
Jewish deteriorated rapidly during the Nazi occupation and communist rule, their
community of 130,000 members in 1939 has less than 1000 today. Today, the city
already renovated this site bearing the tombs of renowned rabbis and made it
into an underground mausoleum. However, the bridge gained its fame because of
the top floor restaurant designed in the shape of the spinning flying saucer.
Modern
Bratislava is full of pulsing cafes, upscale shops and inviting restaurants open
to curious tourists interested in tasting cheap, local cuisine (comparable to
German cuisine with its use of potatoes, cheese and sauerkraut) and distinctive
Slovak beer with full body, thick froth and rich flavor.
Bratislava
is surrounded by the vineyard-covered Little Carpathian Mountains and abounds in
wine bars and cellars. Locals claim that wine-growing in Bratislava is as old as
the city itself. Typical Slovak wines Tokaj and Riesling are served with the
most popular Slovak dishes such as bryndzove halusky (potato dumplings with goat
cheese). Slovak Tokaj, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Svatovarvrinecke
comparable to Pinot Noir for its great full flavor with a touch of spice are
available in selected wine stores in the US. Festive and generous Slovak people
will gladly accompany you on a culinary escapade through the pubs and
restaurants. For more upscale establishments visit restaurants on castle hill or
my favorite, Traja Musketiery.
In
the villages, girls and women still don’t get away that easily and instead of
perfume, men poor buckets of cold water on them or drag them into the near-by
creek. Watering is followed by a whipping and at the end of this ordeal some
cheap perfume may be used to spray on the maids. On Easter Monday, females are
to wait at home and suffer the ordeal for which in return chocolate eggs or
money are offered to children, while adult men prefer a shot of alcohol. After
taking care of the women, the men bless the cattle and wish good harvest.
Hotel
Kyjev, a communism era hotel, located in the heart of the city, is still one of
the most visited hotels because of its affluent past and great rate ($65 and
up). The visitors who are looking for a present-day luxury stay may want to
experience Hotel Carlton ($230 and up). This first-class, deluxe hotel located
in the best downtown neighborhood, next to the National Theater, has undergone
years of restoration since its original construction in 1837. Its astonishing
façade, interiors and state-of-the-art rooms place this gem at the top of
Bratislava’s ladder of luxurious accommodations.