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Enjoy a cuppa in Kyoto
By Erin Rigik
Planning
a trip to Japan? In between sushi sampling, geisha spotting, temple trekking,
and of course shopping, add a bit of Zen to the day with one of the most
traditional Japanese Arts: the tea ceremony.
Picture a tatami room, empty except for a hanging scroll,
vase of flowers and a line of guests padding across the floor, avoiding the
corners of the straw woven tatami mats that give the room its name.
The
guests squat before sliding paper doors that open onto a Zen Garden. Legs turn to pins and needles as they twist into the traditional seiza
position (legs tucked under the bottom). At the front of the room, the
kimono-clad host slowly stirs the matcha (green tea) powder and hot water using
a bamboo whisk with a fluidity that commands attention. A silence streaks across
the room. The assistant steps to the first guest and presents the bowl of tea
with a bow.
The ritual of tea ceremony has grown as a part of Japanese
Culture since the 12th Century when a Buddhist monk carried the tradition home
with him from China. Four centuries later, a Zen Monk named Sen no Rikyu
perfected the ceremony into what the Japanese practice today.
In Japan, a full-scale tea ceremony may not be easy to
locate or fit into time constraints (a proper tea ceremony can take up to four
hours), but a short class may hit the spot for busy travelers.
If time allows only five minutes, look for a small shop
that offers samples of the frothy matcha and okashi (sweet) without the
ritual. Such shops are often located near the most famous temples in Kyoto.
Tucked between gift shops, just outside of Kinkakuji Temple
(northwest Kyoto), travelers can taste the tea and okashi for 500 yen (about $5
USD), in a small teahouse.
The sweet compensates for the bitter flavor of the tea and
often contains a sweet bean paste filling, found in many Japanese desserts.
Classes are also widely available in Kyoto and teach the
basics of participating in a ceremony as well as the tools and history behind
it.
A class usually begins with a lesson in entering the room
and sitting seiza (traditional Japanese style). But not to worry, the Japanese
understand this position is difficult for many foreigners and will understand
if anyone shifts to a more comfortable position. The host (Otemae) enters the
room with a bow. {Insert tea photo 4 here}. Often an assistant (Hanto) assists
guests and sees that the class runs smoothly. As the host begins the exact
movements of preparing the tea, the assistant presents okashi and teaches the
correct way to cut the sweet and pass the tray.
As the host prepares each bowl of tea, the assistant offers
the tea to each guest with a bow. After bowing in return, take the bowl and set
it to either side and say, "Osakini," an apology for going first.
Tea ceremony consists of three separate schools: URA-Senke,
the most renowned outside of Japan, Omoto-Senke, and Mushako Ji. The way of
enjoying tea differs between schools, for example the tea may be finished in two
to four sips depending on the school. Before drinking, support the tea bowl (chawan)
with the left hand and turn the bowl twice clockwise with the right until the
shomen (front side, beautiful part) faces away, and drink.
When the tea is gone, rest the bowl on the left hand, wipe
the rim with the thumb and index finger and turn the bowl counter clockwise
before placing the bowl in front of you.
So much work for a cup of tea!
The goal of tea ceremony is not just to consume the tea
but rather, emphasis rests on the process itself: on making and appreciating tea
in the company of the guests and the host.
Tea ceremony, which finds its roots in Zen Buddhism, seeks
reality and beauty through simplicity. The main principles are explained in four
words:
Wa--
harmony with people, tools and nature
Kei--respect
Sei--purity of all people and things
Jaku--a peaceful heart
Perfecting the art of tea ceremony takes many years of
practice. During the ceremony guests discuss only things related to tea, the
ceremony, utensils, and the tearoom. Talk of worldly things is discouraged in
order to create an atmosphere of harmony and simplicity.
Need one final reason to learn tea ceremony? Green tea
contains vitamins E and C, and is known to increase metabolism.
For classes in Kyoto:
The Westin Miyako Hotel offers classes in the Shikushi Tearoom on the third
floor. Classes are offered everyday from 10 a.m. until 6 p.m. for the price of
1155 yen. Classes are conducted mostly in Japanese, which can be accompanied
with an English explanation when English speakers are present. An advanced
reservation in English (speak slowly) can be made by calling 075-771-7111. To
get to Westin Miyako take bus #5 from Kyoto Station to Jingu-michi bus stop.
WAK Japan offers classes in English Monday through Friday
from 4 p.m. to 5 p.m. for the price of 3150 yen a person, although an advanced
reservation is required by calling 075-212-9993. The staff speaks English
well. If the above times are inconvenient, you may call to arrange an alternate
time slot. Classes can also be arranged at a private home for 1200 yen a person,
and a service can take tourists from their hotel to the private home. For an
extra fee, other famous Japanese experiences can be included, such as flower
arranging, calligraphy, Japanese dance, and kimono wearing. To reach the WAK
Japan office where classes are held take bus #205 or #17 from Kyoto Station to Kawaramachi-Marutamachi
bus stop. For more information on classes, prices and possible discounts visit
the WAK Japan website at
http://www.wakjapan.com/englishcourse.html. Email questions to
wak@wakjapan.com.
Kyoto International Community House offers classes on
Tuesday from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. for 500 yen. English explanation is
available. Reservations are required by calling 075-752-3511. Please call on
Tuesday before 11 a.m.
For sampling tea without the ritual:
OKOCHI-SANSO is a traditional house once owned by a famous silent screen
actor. The 1000 yen admission includes a cup of tea and a sweet at the
teahouse. A short walk through a bamboo forest will lead to the property. The
grounds contain a stunning Japanese garden from which one can view cherry
blossoms, which color the mountainous view in early April. This teahouse is
located in Arashiyama. Take the JR Sagano line from Kyoto Station to Saga
Arashiyama.
For an actual tea ceremony, contact Kyoto Tourist
Information for Visitors, open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed the 2nd and 4th
Tuesday of the month. Phone number: 075-344-3300.
Tea Tools in Japanese
Tana—utensil stand
Sensu—a folding fan
Chawan—the tea bowl
Natsume—container for powdered tea
Chashaku—the tea scoop
Chasen—the tea whisk
Hishaku—the ladle
Kama—the kettle or iron pot used in the winter season. In the summer “natsu
gama” (a summer kettle) is used and is placed directly on the tatami floor.
Okashi—a sweet
Omanju—a type of sweet often used in tea ceremony. It contains a sweet
bean paste filling.
Hashi—chopsticks, which are sometimes used to take the sweet from the kashibachi.
Kashibachi—bowl of sweets
Higashibon—tray for dry sweets
Kaishi—a thin paper on which you place your sweet, and wipe your fingers.
Kuromoji—a small toothpick used to cut and eat the sweet
by Erin Rigik
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