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An Arkansas Legend
Petit Jean Mountain
By Larry Jameson
Petit Jean State Park is Arkansas’ oldest and, certainly,
the most famous among the state’s huge system of parks. Once called Impassable
Mountain, the old name passed into history as the Legend of Petit Jean spread
far and wide.
Some
years after Sieur de la Salle claimed the territory for France in 1682, a young
Frenchman named Chavet received permission from King Louis XV to explore the New
World. His fiancé, Adrienne Dumont, pleaded with him to marry her before he left
on his journey.
The young Frenchman feared that taking a wife on such a
dangerous mission would benefit neither of them. He promised Adrienne the
wedding would be held upon his return to France. She refused to accept his
denial. Prior to the ship’s sailing, the young girl persuaded the cabin boy to
let her board the ship in his stead.
She
dressed in the boy’s clothing, called herself Jean, and was hired by the ship’s
captain as the cabin boy. For three years she was able to keep her identity
secret as the expedition crossed the Atlantic Ocean, rounded the southeastern
coast, entered the Mississippi River and then branched northeast up the Arkansas
River. Because of her small size the sailors called her Petit Jean or Little
John.
The ship approached Impassable Mountain. Indians descended
from the hills and greeted the strange looking men. The natives were so friendly
that Chavet and his crew spent the entire summer living atop the mountain with
them. Alas, the young “cabin boy” fell sick with a fever, convulsions, delirium
and, eventually, a coma. While treating Petit Jean, the Indians discovered he
was not a boy at all!
Two
days later, during a lucid moment, she confessed to Chavet and begged his
forgiveness. Knowing her life would be far too short for the return to France,
the young girl asked to be carried back to the mountaintop. She died at sunset.
Today, it is said the spirit of Petit Jean hovers over the mountain bringing an
air of enchantment and romance.
Seven hiking trails traverse Petit Jean State Park, and
those planning to imbue themselves with the romantic charm of the area would do
well to remember that it was once called Impassable Mountain for a reason. The
12-mile long Boy Scout Trail requires hikers to register at the park’s visitor
center.
The
Bear Cave Trail and the Rock House Cave Trail are each only one-quarter mile in
length and easy to negotiate. There are no bears living in the cave named for
them and perhaps the most memorable part of this trail is the Eye of the Needle,
a cathedral of rock believed to have been cut through the sandstone by Cedar
Creek over many centuries.
Just as there are no bears at the Bear Cave, the Rock House
Cave is not a cave at all, but a large rock shelter that bears evidence of its
Indian inhabitants from centuries ago. Several ancient pictographs can be found
on the walls and ceiling. {insert pictograph photo} The romance of Petit Jean is
also evident by more modern Jack loves Jill graffiti, which was spray painted by
those who failed to abide by the park’s trail motto: Take nothing but pictures
and leave nothing but footprints.
Three
of the park’s trails, Cedar Falls, Seven Hollows and Cedar Creek, are designated
National Recreation Trails because of their rich history and scenic beauty. The
Cedar Falls Trail is one of the more popular trails with its trailhead directly
behind Mather Lodge.
The Cedar Falls Trail, a two-mile hike, descends down the
mountain into Cedar Creek Canyon, follows alongside the creek about half a mile
and opens into the beautifully impressive view of the waterfall. This
trail is rated moderate to hard. The moderate part is the descent into the
canyon; the hard part is ascending the mountain trail back to the lodge.
Mather
Lodge overlooks the Arkansas River Valley and combines the rustic charm of pine
walls and ceilings with the modern conveniences of coffee pots, irons, ironing
boards, clock radio and satellite television. There are no phones. In addition
to the 24 guestrooms in the lodge, there are 20 fully equipped cabins with
kitchens. The honeymoon cabin has a hot tub. Another 12 cabins do not have
kitchens.
Rooms at the lodge are $55.00 for a single bed and $60.00
for a double. Cabins without a kitchen are priced at $70.00 while those with the
electric kitchens cost $90.00. The honeymoon cabin is $160.00. All prices, of
course, are per night.
The lodge restaurant provides a good selection of
reasonably priced food for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and a very friendly wait
staff. A swimming pool for guests is behind the lodge.
The popularity of Petit Jean State Park has led to a 2005
expansion of the camping area for those who prefer tent or RV camping. Nearby
Lake Bailey offers excellent fishing and both fishing boats and paddleboats can
be rented. Visitors to the park usually include a stop at the Winthrop
Rockefeller Antique Car Museum located near the Visitor Center.
Both young couples and couples who are young at heart find
the enchantment of the legend and the quiet solitude of the park a perfect place
to rekindle or, perhaps, fan the flames of romance.
More information about Petit Jean State Park can be found
at:
http://www.petitjeanstatepark.com
By: Larry Jameson and Arkansas State Parks
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