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Bovey Castle – the ultimate English country house

By Vivien Devlin

Picture the nostalgic world of England between the world wars, the carefree, elegant days of the 1920s and 30s. This period is captured forever in the classic detective novels of Agatha Christie which began with The Mysterious Affair at Styles published in 1920. This first murdererclH story introduced her legendary Belgian detective, Hercule Poirot, and was written during a fortnight’s holiday at the Moorland hotel, Dartmoor, Devon.

Agatha was born and brought up in Devon in the West Country of England. Childhood experiences revolved around Devonshire cream teas, pretty rural villages, seaside resorts and the upper class lifestyle of nannies, servants and grand country houses. With a rare combination of ingenious plots, good characterisation and atmospheric settings, Agatha Christie's old fashioned mysteries have always had a worldwide readership. 2006 will see the 30th anniversary of her death, yet popular as ever, her books are still widely read and enjoyed as television dramatisations.

Her native Devon was without doubt the inspiration behind her books, using her colourful imagination to turn a country house into a place of family intrigue, blackmail and murder. If Bovey Castle, located within Dartmoor National Park, had been open as a hotel in her day Agatha Christie may well have visited on holiday - perhaps even written a novel here. This magnificent long, greystone Edwardian mansion was built in 1906 as the private home for Viscount Hambledon, the son of the politician, William.Henry Smith. It was his father, WH Smith who founded the major bookseller company. Movie buffs might like to know that Bovey Castle featured in The Hounds of the Baskervilles starring Basil Rathbone.

A West Country Retreat

Rural Devon today still preserves thatched cottages, peaceful farmland, ancient parish churches, country pubs and scones with clotted cream for afternoon tea. In the midst of this idyllic English landscape, near the village of North Bovey, Bovey Castle opened as a luxury hotel, spa and golf resort in Spring 2004.

On arrival guests pass by the castellated gatehouse and meander up the long private drive amidst fabulous parkland and through the (automatically controlled) iron gates into the courtyard. This is decorated with old moss-covered ornamental stone troughs, filled with flowering plants.

As you step into the porch, admire the craftsmanship of the intricately carved stone pillars and archway framing the front door. Then into the wood panelled Grand Hall, (with its faint musky scent of old oak, polish and fresh lilies), where we are greeted by uniformed staff with a warm welcome and glass of sloe gin. Luggage is whisked and away before we can blink. Refreshing drink once consumed, we are led up the carpeted staircase to the first floor and into our lavishly furnished grand Stateroom, named Easdon.

The Castle has been completely refurbished to restore the house to its original style and décor of the 1920s. This was a time when the family home and country estate would have enjoyed its heyday of weekend house parties with fine hospitality. Once again, guests can experience the old fashioned elegance of aristocratic old England. Throughout the house art work has been carefully selected from English landscapes to Tamara de Lempicka portraits reflecting the sophisticated glamour of the period.

Choose your preferred bedroom location - Garden view, Mews room, Deluxe King, State rooms, the Gate Lodge or a Suite. The 65 bedrooms are individually decorated and whatever the size and outlook, all have the same standard of quality fabrics and furnishings, classic black and white bathrooms – some with traditional roll top baths - crisp white linens, fluffy towels, top brand toiletries and vases of fresh flowers.

Our Stateroom certainly has the wow factor. Many original Edwardian features are preserved – a superb carved marble fireplace, a complete wall of high traditional lattice windows. The spacious L shaped room has a kingsize bed tucked around the corner with a separate living and dining room area. The wallpaper is a subtle ochre regency stripe, with cream wood panelling with complementary beige and crimson fabrics and upholstery. We even have a door leading out to private balcony which is a perfect sunspot with views overlooking the gardens and forested valley beyond.

The room is beautifully accessorised with ornaments, flowering plants and archive Vogue fashion magazine prints. But the modern audio/visual essentials for the 21st century traveller are not forgotten and bedrooms have small flat screen televisions and CD players which blend inconspicuously into the classical design.

It’s time to explore. Downstairs, leading off the Great Hall, is a sequence of drawing rooms, cosy lounges, library, cocktail bar and the breathtaking Cathedral Room. Under previous ownership this ornate reception room with arched roof had been divided into two with a false ceiling. Now it has been completely restored to feature the original oak beams, a 30 foot high stone fireplace and minstrels’ gallery. The Cathedral Room is a fine setting for afternoon tea, with the log fire burning and sink-into sofas and armchairs.

Another beautiful public room is the Adam drawing room, featuring a stunning decorative ceiling, crystal chandelier and original fireplace. Here crimson plush armchairs stacked with cushions is the perfect place to relax. Another hideaway is the cosy, red walled Library where you can borrow a book or have a game of chess. In the evening guests tend to gather before dinner in the Piano bar, a traditional oak wood panelled cocktail lounge with green leather Chesterfield sofas.

The pianist plays some romantic melodies while the barmen shake the ice-cold champagne cocktails. Whatever time of day there is a room set aside, whether you wish to sit and read, play snooker, smoke a cigar, request a cup of tea and cake or a dry martini, (shaken not stirred.)

From the reception rooms French windows lead out to the Grand Terrace running along the rear of the house edged with stone balustrades.

From here are breathtaking views over the putting green, down the sweeping grassy hill to the lake and across lovely gardens.  

Before we tour the estate let’s meet the owner and creator of Bovey Castle. 

Peter de Savary

Peter de Savary, (or P D S as he is known), the founder and chairman of Bovey Castle, is an international business entrepreneur and property tycoon with extraordinary vision and enterprise. He is also an award winning yachtsman having participated in the Admirals Cup and the America’s Cup.

His impressive CV covers successful corporate achievement in the fields of oil, shipping, property, travel, leisure and sport. He created the innovative St. James Clubs for the world traveller. A major investment in the early 1990s was the purchase and restoration of Skibo Castle, the former home of Andrew Carnegie, the Scots born industrialist who made his fortune in the Pittsburgh steel mills. This magnificent Victorian baronial mansion in Scotland features Carnegie’s library, desk, furniture, original swimming pool, beautiful gardens and golf course which have thankfully all been preserved: Peter de Savary is a saviour to British architectural heritage. The Carnegie Club at Skibo Castle is now a private Golf and Leisure Club offering luxury accommodation and traditional Highland hospitality for its international members and guests. Other similar Clubs have been created in England and across the United States. 

Always looking for a new property development, de Savary came across a country house hotel in Devon which needed major refurbishment. This has involved an investment of a cool £ 26 million.

“My passion for the West Country stems from strong personal and business connections over the past 35 years” comments PDS. “ The investment is truly an affair of the heart and no expense or effort will be spared to make this the most enjoyable estate destination England has ever had”.

The Estate and Golf Course

The highlight of the 368 acre estate at Bovey Castle is the classic 18 hole golf course. It was originally designed by the renowned J F Abercromby in 1926, who also created the world famous courses at Gleneagles and Turnberry hotels in Scotland. This beautifully landscaped Par 70 course sweeps between woodland, rolling hills and the Bovey and Bowden rivers. Scottish golf architects Donald Steel and Tom Mackenzie have restored the course preserving Abercromby’s design. “The most fulfilling game of golf I have ever enjoyed,” commented Richard Lewis, a PGA professional on visiting Bovey. And if you want to improve on your handicap, instruction is available at the Castle’s own Golf Academy.

You can also take part in other traditional English country sports such as archery, horse-riding and fishing – the Castle owns 11 miles of the River Bovey. There’s an activities team on hand to teach guests fly fishing on the trout lake or pistol target shooting – both sports may be a bit of a challenge for the beginner, but great fun under Charlie’s helpful tuition.

Play tennis, go mountain biking, or enjoy a quiet game of croquet on the front lawn. Each day there’s a full itinerary of organised events such as a Falconry display on the Terrace. And with the Dartmoor National Park on your doorstep, all kinds of outdoor adventures can be arranged – 4x4 driving, quad biking, rock climbing, canoeing and boat trips on the River Dart. 

The Spa and Leisure Centre

A major part of de Savary’s renovation project was the creation of a completely new wing to house the Spa and leisure centre. The design is quite brilliant and inspiring,  where the modern building blends in perfectly with the original carved stonework and symmetrical architecture of the Edwardian house.

Located on the ground floor in the Orangery is a luxurious, cool blue infinity swimming pool, a proper, adult lap pool, where guests can enjoy an energetic 50 lengths then relax in the Jacuzzi or rest in a deck chair. Upstairs is the state-of-the-art Spa where you can chill out and be pampered. Bright, sunny and peaceful, the Spa is a calm oasis featuring a large relaxation room, (with herbal teas, mineral water and magazines), a Hydrotherapy bath, manicure, pedicure and hairdressing suite, as well as six private treatment rooms.

The extensive health and beauty therapy menu, for men and women, offers everything from classic facials to intensive, pro-active skin treatments and body renewal programmes. Experience a salt body scrub, detox wrap or deep tissue back massage. Products used are Clarins, Elemis as well as Farmaesthetics, a range of organic skin care prepared from herbs and flowers - lavender, sage, jasmine and pink petal roses. Breathe in and you can probably detect these scents wafting off the page. A Spa is what being on vacation is all about – so book your treatments and indulge in some valuable “me time” and go home rejuvenated.

Guests can keep fit in the well equipped gymnasium and there are sauna and steam rooms, all part of this holistic Spa specially created for physical wellbeing and relaxation.  

Wining and Dining

Eating and drinking is also a vital part of your stay at Bovey Castle. You may arrive around 4 o’clock, just in time for traditional Afternoon tea, in true Agatha Christie fashion. Served in the Cathedral room or on the terrace, sample scones, cream and jam, apple cake, cherry cake with a cup or two of Earl Grey tea.

Once this is digested it’s time for the evening Wine Tasting session in the Castle Cellars - an optional activity around 5.30pm but highly recommended. The restaurant Sommelier selects two white and two red wines to complement  that evening’s dinner menu which you may order by the glass or bottle. As the wine list has over 250 wines, it’s a good idea to experience a pre-dinner tasting.

By now there’s perhaps time for a stroll around the lake and gardens before dressing for dinner. Cocktails and aperitifs are served in the Piano bar or if you prefer in one of the drawing rooms. Perhaps sip a De Savary Affair - champagne, peach and grapefruit - as you study the menu.

The elegant Palm Court dining room recreates the original art deco design, decorated in sunshine yellow and sky blue, chinoiserie wall coverings, tall palm plants and bronze sculptures. Exquisite wine glasses have been designed by Paloma Picasso. Head Chef David Berry specialises in local meat, fish and game featuring contemporary cuisine and traditional Devonshire dishes. To start perhaps Scottish Smoked salmon blinis, Foie Gras with French bean, grape and hazelnut salad or wild mushroom veloute. Then Moorland Lamb with minted pea puree, or line-caught Seabass with artichokes and caviar beurre blanc. Finish with Lemon tart or home-made ice-cream and a platter of West Country cheese. Then return to the piano bar or lounge for coffee and a nightcap.

Breakfast is also “served” in the Palm Court. Unfortunately, this is where the traditional country house manner disappears. There is a self service buffet which is unforgivable in a luxury hotel such as this. Waiters bring pots of tea and coffee but nothing else. Guests are expected to get up and down to select fruit, cereals, pastries, scrambled egg, bacon and even make their own toast.!  On the second day, not wishing to experience the limited hot buffet, I asked politely if it was possible to have an omelette. “Certainly Madam.”  It may have taken 20 minutes but I did succeed in a freshly cooked breakfast. 

Coffee, drinks and a light lunch can be taken at the Golf Club Bar located above the swimming pool. This has an open air terrace, perfect for al fresco summer meals.  

Bring the family ……

Although Bovey Castle may appear as an adult-only resort, the added bonus is that your children are more than welcome. While parents can set off to the golf course or Spa, children (6 – 16) will be supervised in the Bovey Rangers Club. Staff organise woodland adventures, camping, pony trekking or golf lessons, while indoors the games room has a model train set, table tennis and a DVD movie library with private cinema. Children have their own supper time, to allow parents complete relaxation over drinks and dinner. Babysitting service also available. 

The Lodges

Following on from the success of the St. James Club and Skibo Castle, Bovey Castle also offers membership of its own exclusive Club. Depending on category of membership, private accommodation is available in 22 luxury granite stone Lodges discreetly hidden from view amidst the woodland garden. Club Members have superb benefits and privileges including complimentary use of the golf course, as well as access to all sporting facilities and the Spa. Ideal for families, friends or corporate entertainment, members can enjoy the freedom of self-catering, arrange butler service in their lodge, or join hotel guests in the Castle bars and restaurant.

“An Affair of the heart” ….

Peter de Savary set out with a personal dream to create the most luxurious country house hotel and sporting estate in England. With no expense spared and extravagant taste, this is no ordinary hotel - it has the majestic aura of a Palace. Agatha Christie would feel at home here and be inspired to write such thrillers as Body in the Library or Murder on the Links…..

But Bovey Castle is not all about nostalgia for a long lost English pre-war world. It’s equally about a contemporary lifestyle where people work hard and play hard. This is the ultimate leisure resort offering a real alternative place to stay. It’s a destination for everyone – international travellers, couples, families, golfers and business colleagues for a long weekend or perhaps a week or two while touring the West Country. Bovey Castle has a homely, country house party atmosphere - romantic, timeless and a unique, magical experience.

Visitor information

Bovey Castle, Dartmoor National Park, Devon. www.boveycastle.com

Exeter International Airport, 25 minutes from Bovey Castle. 
Train from London to Exeter station

FlyBE airline – www.flybe.com - flights around UK and Europe to Exeter

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