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Living Life in the Past Lane
An Erie Canal Adventure
By Sandra Scott
The morning sky
streaked red. Still in their pjs the grandchildren, rubbed the sleep from their
eyes, rushed out onto the deck, baited their hooks, dropped their line, and
watched the sun greet the day. Patiently they waited for that slight tug on the
line indicating that, indeed, there are fish in the Erie Canal. Nearby a great
blue heron taunts them by making the first catch of the day.
Houseboating on the Erie Canal is the perfect
multi-generation vacation, It turns a fun vacation into a learning adventure.
You don’t need your own boat to enjoy life in the “past lane.” Rental
houseboats make it possible for all vacationers to relive the old canal days.
Heading east from Tonawanda, near
Buffalo, NY, there are miles of scenic shoreline providing plenty of time to
become accustomed to operating the boat before “locking through.” If you can
drive a car you can drive a houseboat. It is impossible to get lost on a canal,
and at a maximum of speed of 5 miles an hour boating in the shallow canal means
the potential problems are minimal. Yet the adventure and learning
opportunities are unsurpassed – for all ages.
Locking
through the historic locks in Lockport is a hands-on lesson in canalling that
young and old will always remember. When the massive water gates open and all
hands are ready, the captain eases the boat into the lock to a cable on the side
of the wall. A crewmember, on our trip it was 13-year old John, leans out the
window and hooks the rope around the cable. When all is secured, the water gate
is closed, the water pumped out, and in five minutes the boat is 25 feet lower.
The rope that slides down the cable as the boat is lowered is unhooked and the
captain motors into the next lock where the process is repeated. The Lockport
locks are unique on the Erie Canal in that there are two together. It was an
early 20th century upgrade replacing the earlier “flight of five,” the remains
of which can be seen next to the working locks.
We celebrate a successful locking through by taking “shore
leave” to tour the Lockport Cave and take a another boat ride, this time on an
underground river! A new history lesson. We’ve all heard of Thomas Alva Edison
but who has heard of Birdsell Holley. We see one of his many inventions every
day - the fire hydrant. The only person in the United States who held more
patents than Birdsell was his close friend, Thomas Edison.
The tour starts with a brief history of the canal and
locks, then visitors enter the water tunnel in the side of the hill which looks
like a place where no man, woman or child should go. “Cool! Very cool!” comment
the grandchildren. The Lockport Cave is actually a 12 x 20-foot man-made
hydraulic raceway blasted out of solid rock over 140 years ago. At one time the
water that raced through the tunnel provided power to three factories. The tour
includes a ½-mile underground boat ride. It is historical. It is educational. It
is fun. Truly a unique experience.
Before heading back to the boat,
we learn more about the canal following the signs on Riley’s Way, a canal
walking tour, and at the canal museum located between the remains of the old
“flight of five” and the current locks.
“Low Bridge, Everyone down” is still an appropriate cry as
almost all canal communities between Lockport and Rochester have at least one
lift-bridge. The lift bridges are too low for our boat, the “Green Heron,” to
pass under so 12-year-old Elizabeth contacts the lift-bridge operator by radio.
“Green Heron calling Middleport Bridge, requesting
eastbound passage.”
A railroad-style gate stops road traffic and bridge is raised. After we pass she
radios a “thank you.”
“You are welcome, Captain. Have a good trip.” And on we go
to the next lift-bridge. Many of the canal towns have
newly-created canal parks that provide free electrical and water connections.
We tie up late afternoon so there is plenty of time for a bike ride, fishing, or
visiting a local attraction before dinner. Some of the towns have museum or
other attractions. In Holley, a newly created trail winds through the woods to
beautiful waterfalls, and nearby we watch the salmon struggling to get up
stream.
The days past in timeless relaxation.
We spend an hour watching a blue heron play a game of almost-tag with our boat.
Regally perched like a centurion on the rocky shore he waited until our boat was
within 20 feet, then spread his magnificent wings and glided down to his next
sentry post. The green areas along the canal provide perfect habitat for birds
and mammals.
Each day is a new adventure far from the
maddening crowd. Each day is a lesson in history and nature appreciation. It
wasn’t until we neared Rochester and caught sight of Route 390 bridge with
vehicles whizzing by at 60 miles and hour did we truly realize that “life in the
fast lane” was just a short distance away. For a week we felt we were living
life at perfect speed – five miles an hour. We knew the trip was a huge success
with our grandchildren because they never mentioned the absence of the
telephone, the television, or the computer. Living ”life in the past lane” houseboating on the Erie Canal is the perfect vacation for all ages
If you go:
Canal Princess Charters: (716) 693-2752,
www.canalprincess.com ($1200 @ wk)Lockport Caves:
www.lockportcave.com ($8)
General canal information: www.iloveny.com,
www.nycanal.com
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