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“Tranquil Harmony in Falmouth”
By Heather Hobson
Sometimes we find the most delightful retreats in places we
never expect them. I was invited to a wedding on Cape Cod in late June. I
immediately thought, “Ugh, traffic, tee shirt shops, and miniature golf,” this
was the predicament of every summer vacation of my childhood years. My mother
spent the whole year preparing for our summer vacations to the Cape. Bit by bit
she would stock up on soda, snacks, and beach toys.
Then, in the last week before our departure, the linens
would start amassing themselves like little soldiers in a formation of trash
bags by the laundry room—bath towels, beach towels, dish towels, sheets,
blankets, pillows, sleeping bags, and so on. Such were the preparations for a
week at a rustic cottage on the beach. Then early on a hot morning in July we
would load up the station wagon, and years later the mini van, with all the
food, pots and pans, linens, beach chairs, kites, bikes, kids, and one summer a
litter of kittens too young to be left home alone. Eventually, we hit the road
proceeded shortly thereafter by a cacophony of “are we there yets” and gaseous
emissions from momma cat in a state of vehicular anxiety.
Every year it was the same routine, only once we reached
our destination we would take note of all the new tee shirt shops or beach
novelty outlets or pirate themed miniature golf courses we could spend our
allowances in.
Patti
Page sang about the “quaint little villages here and there” in her song “Old
Cape Cod”. But, today, the little villages are few and far between.
So I was greatly,
momentously, stupendously surprised with the adorable eight villages which make
up the town of Falmouth. Just fifteen minutes east of mainland
Massachusetts, Falmouth is the home to “America the Beautiful” author Katherine
Lee Bates, miles of warm water beaches, and countless activities with
distinctive New England charm.
After circling the rotary at the Bourne Bridge I headed
eastbound on route 28. For a little while I navigated the piney woodland
environment of the cape but soon enough I came upon the outskirts of Falmouth.
Hidden beneath the canopy were old colonial homes, cozy bed and breakfasts and
rustic pottery studios. Route 28 then makes a sharp bend left thorough the
town’s historic Village Green. It was here that revolutionary soldiers gathered
to train for battle against the Redcoats. The green is encircled by hard-wearing
old homes constructed by sea captains and shipbuilders in the 1800s. For a fun
rainy day activity or just for a change of pace visit Falmouth Museums on the
Green to tour three historic houses, colonial and herb gardens and lots of
hands-on activities.
Following 28, also called Main Street or Teaticket Highway,
just beyond the Village Green you’ll come upon Falmouth Center. Here you will
find shops owned and operated local merchants and their unique taste. There
isn’t a Gap or Bath and Body Works as far as the eye can see. If a one of a kind
chandelier or hand painted chair are on the top of your shopping list check out
one of Falmouth Center’s artful furniture shops for original chic and shabby
housewares.
Looking
for some light beach reading? How about a book club or a reading with a best
selling author? The Inkwell Bookstore is a bookshop with everything from classic
literature to local publications. If you’re looking for a unique Cape Cod themed
gift that doesn’t scream “Cape Cod” all over it, check out The Black Dog General
Store. The Black Dog is an icon of the Cape and the islands. Originally, The
Black Dog Tavern served up sandwiches and fresh seafood to Martha’s Vineyarders.
Their retail shops became more and more popular offering clothing and
accessories for grown ups, kids, and dogs all adorned with their ubiquitous
black lab logo.
After you’ve lunched at Main Street’s quaint cafes and pubs
be sure to visit Ben and Bill’s Chocolate Emporium to sample their enormous
selection of chocolates, fudge, and ice cream. And the best thing about shopping
on Main Street is there are no parking meters. No parking garages where you pay
by the hour, no valets to tip. It’s all free.
The
Falmouth shoreline is undulating and scenic. The town boasts a slew of public
beaches that are clean and not overcrowded. The water is a deep turquoise and
the surf is modest. The water stays at about 70°F,
which isn’t bathwater by any means, but it is quite warm for the north Atlantic.
Parking passes are available by the day, week or month and rates are available
by calling the Falmouth Town Hall at (508) 548-7611.
After
toasting yourself to a lovely shade of lobster, you might be ready for an
excursion off the sand. The drive down Nobska Road through Woods Hole is
breathtaking. This seaside route offers postcard views of the beaches and dunes.
You’ll also come upon Nobska Lighthouse high upon a bluff.
From
this vantage point you can see ferries shuttling back and forth from the
Vineyard, research vessels departing from Woods Hole, fishing boats out to bring in tomorrow’s fresh seafood, and
various recreational watercraft. Traverse down Nobska Road through leafy green
forests lined by stonewalls and wooden fences.
The village of Woods Hole is
home to the Woods Hole Science Aquarium, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution,
and Marine Biological Laboratory which all present exhibits on marine life and
ocean exploration.
In the evening Cape Cod Baseball League
www.capecodbaseball.org is a summer favorite. Since the Civil War the
best ball players in the country come out to show the fans what they’re made of
before they hit the big leagues. Bring a lawn chair and your autograph book
because these games are not to be missed.
There
are so many oodles of things to do in this seaside community. For a fabulous
fish sandwich just plucked from the Atlantic check out The Clam Shack on
Falmouth Harbor. Take a day trip to Martha’s Vineyard or Nantucket via passenger
ferry. Snoop through one of the dozens of art galleries along Main Street. Take
in a free concert at one of Falmouth’s many parks. Go biking or hiking along the
miles of stunning trails. Or go fishing, golfing, whale watching, or canoeing.
It’s all here for you in Falmouth. And of course, feel free to do nothing at all
and just enjoy the view. After all, vacations are for unwinding and in
Falmouth, “you’re sure to fall in love with Old Cape Cod” all over again.
More information is available at
www.falmouthchamber.com and
www.falmouthvisitor.com .
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