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Cancun & Cozumel: Conquering Wilma
By Robert Painter
O.K., I’ll concede that Wilma won. She was one tough bully
of a hurricane that found an easy victim and just kept pounding. But that was
just the first round. I visited recently and discovered that not only is
Quintana Roo fighting back, but much of the state will be better than ever.
Quintana Roo? That’s the name of the state in which Cancun & Cozumel are
located. Quintana Roo - fun to say and a fun place to visit.
I
was in Cancun a few weeks ahead of Wilma enjoying the spas. If there is a
Spa Heaven it must be Cancun. The whole point of that trip was to unwind and
enjoy as much time as I possibly could in the Caribbean Sea, in the sun, and in
the spas.
Checking into the Nichupte’ Destination Spa I found a
colorful little village that included not only the spa treatment areas, but
several restaurants, colonial style private villas, swimming pool, sauna, gym,
bars and even a topless beach, all overlooking the Nichupte Lagoon. And, of
course, a temazcal.
Temazcal? For you U.S. and Canadian readers the Temazcal
is the Mayan version of the sweatlodge. The word Temazcal comes from the
Nahuatl language used by the Aztecs. The ceremony offered by the Westin Resort
& Spa was reportedly used by the Aztecs, Zapotecs, Mixtecs, Mayans and other
indigenous groups as a therapeutic and purifying ritual.
The Westin’s circular lodge by the beach holds the Temezcal
bath chamber, centrally heated by rocks. When boughs of herbs are laid over the
hot rocks and the rocks are sprinkled with water, a richly scented steam begins
the sweating process necessary to relax and purify the body and to release
toxins. This is a time to meditate and clear your mind. Afterwards, a dip in
the ocean is perfect.
The Ritz-Carlton experience at their Kayanta’ Spa is
everything you might hope for. They have a 5,500 square foot, beachfront spa
offering a “multidimensional experience for all senses featuring exotic
textures, relaxing aromas, gentle flavors, soothing sounds and colors.” Imagine
a picturesque “palapa” on the beach, curtained for privacy in which you’re
receiving a couples massage to the rhythm of the waves as the come ashore only a
few feet away. Think of the Lol-Ha, a traditional Mayan bridal bath to
leave skin and spirit relaxed and luminous. The Zac-Xib man’s treatment
includes a vigorous body scrub and bath therapy. Enjoy the Spa Valet services,
water rituals essential oils, plant extracts, facials, body wraps and all that
the Kayanta’ Spa has to offer. Kayanta’, inspired by the Mayan phrase, ka’ a
yaa’n tah , means “to be reborn.” What better name?
The first member of Leading Spas of the World in
Cancun, the Spa Del Mar, recently named one of the top 50 spas in North America
has an exciting spa program designed particularly for Moms-To-Be. The Nurturing
Massage for the Mother-To-Be is designed to deal with the aches and pains
experienced by this special circumstance of pregnancy. The special treatments
are coordinated around the varying stages of pregnancy and the Mom-to-be is
placed in a different and comfortable position on the special bean-bag cushion
developed to achieve maximum benefit with the least discomfort.
The Spa Del Mar at Le Meridien Cancun Resort & Spa offers
their Signature Wrap combining locally dug Mayan clay, rich in minerals, with
sea plants, and unpolluted Marine Algae. This clay is applied in massage
movements over the body which is then placed in a warm wrap followed by a
Cellutox Deep Tissue Muscle Massage. Le Meriden also provides its guests with a
full complement of special classes, a fitness area, sauna & steam rooms, cold
plunge pool, Jacuzzi, Vichy rain shower, hydrotherapy and an outdoor lounge pool
as well as an extensive menu of additional spa treatments. I had a 50 minute
Aromatherapy massage which kept me relaxed for the remainder of the day.
After four days of luxuriating in some of the top spas in
the world I found it necessary to respond to a family emergency and fly home
immediately. I couldn’t have been more relaxed to deal with these problems,
but, on the other hand, I knew I wanted to return and end my next visit on a
better note.
When I watched the news and the pictures of Cancun and
Cozumel being pummeled by Hurricane Wilma I remembered all the wonderful people
I had met during my visit and wondered how they had fared. What about their
jobs, their homes and their families?
My return to Quintana Roo was just a few months after
Wilma’s visit. Just driving down the streets of Cancun you might be hard
pressed to even find signs of the storm. When you walk on the beach, however,
you’ll see some of the results. One of the hotels had hundreds of mattresses
stacked outside in the pool areas. There were bulldozers working on stretches
of the beach pushing around large piles of concrete and rebar. Construction
crews were busy - some of the reconstruction work seemed to be going 24 hours a
day. Beach renourishment was in progress. Some hotels are still closed, some
were more lightly damaged and reopened quickly, some are just now opening and
dealing with the inherent detail problems of any “new” hotel.
One thing is for certain. Cancun is up and running. The
weather is great, the water is perfect and occupancy is high, partly I would
think because of the reduced number of available rooms.
If you’re wondering about cruise travel to Cozumel I can
tell you that it hasn’t stopped! This, the busiest cruise destination in the
world, is going strong. But, with a few changes. The cruise docks are wiped
out! But, that’s a minor problem. The solution was easy. Until the docks are
rebuilt, instead of stepping off your cruise ship onto dry land, you’ll just
step off onto large boats that will ferry you quickly to shore. These are not
the tiny tenders that toss you about in some of the smaller ports of call.
These are large vessels that, in the calm seas of Cozumel, will transport you
safely, comfortably and quickly to shore.
As for Cozumel
itself, with 3,000 hotel rooms ready for visitors as of February 2006, they are
back in business and ready for your arrival. All the roads are completely
open. I drove all the way across the island and circled the southern half
and could see that most of the shops, excursions, restaurants and dive operators
were open and busy.
South of Cancun and north of Tulum in the beautiful Mayan
Riviera is the spectacular five star all-inclusive Barcelo’ Maya Beach Resort .
It is one of the most colorfully painted resorts in the area. I couldn’t stop
taking photographs. Every angle of every building against the brilliant blue
sky was magnificent. The grounds were expansive with over a thousand rooms,
tropical gardens, swimming pools, six restaurants, including a buffet by the
beach, a disco, shopping and, of course, a spa. There is even the 1200 seat
Kukulcan Theatre with a different show every night with live music. A kids
center, tennis courts, mini golf, a diving center and more will fill your
time. And, if you get tired of all this fun and relaxation you can easily drive
a few minutes down the road and visit the Xel-Ha Waterpark.
The Xel-Ha Waterpark
was busy when I arrived. Not mobbed like a Disney park in the U.S., but
comfortably busy with lots of people, lots of things to do and lots of space to
do it in. Do what? How about a giant chess game for the kids?
Snorkel in the slow river and the turquoise lagoon
surrounded by thousands of multicolored fish like Rainbow Parrots, Blue Tans and
French Angelfish. Stroll through the jungle and see some of the 100 bird species
and nearly 230 plants species. Study Leatherback marine turtles in their natural
habitat. Ride a bike, leap from the Cliff of Courage, cross the floating bridge
in the Path of the Wind, snorkel into the Mayan Cave and Ixchel’s Canyon and
then collapse on Hammock Island.
What more is there to do when you visit Quintana Roo?
Plenty. Because I came down the spas and to check out Cozumel I didn’t have
time for everything that I would have liked. I have already decided that my
next trip will begin with a visit to Tulum, the grand Mayan city overlooking the
sea. I’ve visited Mayan villages in the jungle, but never one built adjoining
the sea. I’m planning to spend a day exploring this magnificent walled city just
down the road from Xel-Ha.
Quintana Roo is waiting for you. So what are you waiting
for?
When You Go:
More Cancun Information:
www.cancun.info
Cozumel Information:
www.islacozumel.com.mx
Waterpark:
www.Xel-ha.com.mx. Go to bottom of home page for English version.
Nichupte’ Destination Spa:
www.nichuptespa.com
Westin Cancun:
http://www.starwoodhotels.com/westin
Ritz-Carlton:
http://www.ritzcarlton.com/resorts/cancun
LeMeridien:
www.lemeridien.com
Barcelo Maya Beach Resort: E-Mail to
hotel@barcelomaya.com
Photos by Robert Painter
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