Music and Magic in Prague
By Vivien Devlin
 “The first fall of snow is not only an
event, it is a magical event. You go to bed in one kind of a world and wake up
in another quite different. If this is not enchantment then where is it to be
found?” J. B. Priestley
Prague, the capital city of the Czech
Republic, is an enchanting place to be in midwinter especially around Christmas
and New Year – crisp white snow underfoot, the colourful Christmas Market in the
Old Town Square and a traditional festive atmosphere all create a romantic
setting.
 I have visited Prague in a heat wave in
April, a sunny weekend in September and also during the frosty first week in
January. This is when the city celebrates its love of music with a world class
festival, Prague Winter - a truly exciting and magical time of year to visit,
far away from the madding summer crowds.
Prague, in any season, is a magnificent
city, the "Jewel in the Crown" of Central Europe and ancient capital of Charles
IV's Bohemian Kingdom. Prague is famed for its outstanding architecture from the
Gothic Baroque and Romanesque periods to the more modern Belle-Epoque and Art
Nouveau. The city centre has been designated a Unesco World Heritage site.
 No
wonder this offers the ideal film set whatever the location (Amadeus, Bourne
Identity, XXX, Mission Impossible). Wherever you wander you can only marvel at
the stunning cityscape – the view over the Vltava River up to the Castle and
Cathedral high on the hill, the famous Charles Bridge, and the tall majestic
spires around the medieval Old Town. Prague certainly lives up to its reputation
as a fairytale city.
Prague Winter, founded by the
International Festivals Bureau in 1972, is a world class annual programme of
classical music, opera and ballet.
 The city’s exquisite. centuries-old theatres
and concert halls feature performances by the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra,
Czech Symphony Orchestra and Prague State Opera. The Festival celebrates the
city’s rich artistic heritage and renowned Czech composers, Smetana, Dvorak,
Janacek as well as Mozart who was so inspired by the city.
I enjoyed a musical feast over a four
day visit in January 2006. First night I was at the National Theatre for a
performance of Tchaikovsky’s ballet The Nutcracker, the perfect Christmas-time
entertainment. The next afternoon, a wintry walk through the Old Town to the
fabulous Theatre of the Estates for a delightful concert of traditional Bohemian
music and song. The theatre is painted blue and gold with ornate ceiling,
glittering chandeliers and high tiered boxes all around – it’s like being inside
a child’s traditional puppet theatre. Built in 1783, The Marriage of Figaro was
first performed here and this is where Mozart conducted the premiere of his
opera Don Giovanni – that sense of cultural history creates a very special aura
as you look around this tiny, yet magnificent opera house.
A major highlight of the week was a
concert at the Rudolfinum Hall by the Czech Philharmonic of Dvorak’s G Major
symphony. Tchaikovsky’s Violin Concerto was also performed with sparkling
bravado by the dynamic Czech violinist, Pavel Sporkl. And the feast of music
continued with a dramatic production of The Queen of Spades, at the majestic,
crimson and gold State Opera House.
The Festival offers the visitor far more
than classical opera and music. There are jazz concerts, marionette shows and
traditional Black Theatre, combining mime, light effects, film, music and dance.
Black Light Theatre and Laterna Magika are well established companies in Prague
and their text free performances, (no language barrier), are ideal for the
international visitor.
The 35th Prague Winter runs from 2 – 7
January 2007. Amongst 15 day and evening performances, are two perennially
popular operas, Don Giovanni and La Traviata and a new production of Jenufa by
Janacek. For ballet lovers, what could be more festive than a production of
Cinderella and also the romantic Onegin. There are orchestral, chamber and jazz
concerts, folk songs, choir recitals, marionette and black theatre shows taking
place all around town. And don’t miss the final night when a dazzling Gala
Fireworks display takes place on the riverbank. Everyone gathers on Charles
Bridge around 9.30pm, warmed by a Becherovka liqueur, to watch the spectacle.
It’s a fitting and spectacular end to a week of wonderful entertainment, music
and song to celebrate the New Year.
For an extra special festive experience,
why not arrive in Prague a couple of days before the Festival and bring in the
New Year with style. On Silvestr, (New Year’s Eve), a glamorous Gala Ball takes
place at the State Opera House. Enjoy a cocktail reception, performance of Die
Fledermaus by Strauss, buffet dinner, followed by dancing the night away with a
Swing Band.
Prague is one of the most magical,
fairytale cities on the planet – especially in the white winter wonderland.
What else to see and do
Market Stalls, Old Town Square and
Wenceslas Square
Browse the Market stalls for cashmere pashminas, fur hats (you’ll need one in
winter), hand-knitted gloves, amber and silver jewellery, wood craft, Czech
chocolate and quality gifts.
Astronomical Clock - Prague's medieval
timepiece on the tower in the Old Town Square. The design features the sun, moon
and stars of the zodiac, the figures of Death and twelve Apostles while the
cockerel crows as the hour strikes.
 The Castle and St Vitus Cathedral
Prague Castle, established in the 9th century, is the largest medieval castle
complex in Europe. Take time to wander around the palaces, monastery, museums,
towers, the Spanish Hall and Golden Lane. Today it’s the seat of the President
of the Czech Republic. The impressive gothic Cathedral, dating back to 1344,
features St. Wenceslas Chapel, home of the Bohemian crown jewels.
Sightseeing? Take a Prague Experience
Walking Tour. Departs Old Town Square, 3 hours. Book in advance
www.pragueexperience.com
Museum Kampa
A fabulous gallery of modern, avant-garde art to surprise the senses. Located
right on the river in former Mill beside Charles Bridge. Find the giant chair on
a tiny island. Cafe and shop.
www.museumkampa.cz
Where to stay
Radisson SAS Acron Hotel, Stepanska 40,
tel. +420 2 228 20000
sales.prague@radissonsas.com 5 star, Art deco design, located off Wenceslas
Square.
Aria Hotel – Trziste 9, 118 00, tel.
+420 225 334 111.
stay@aria.cz
Unique Boutique hotel dedicated to the enjoyment of music with 52 themed rooms.
Left bank, near Charles Bridge and Castle.
Hotel Josef, Rybena 20, tel + 4202-2170
0111.
www.hoteljosef.com
state-of-the-art, chic design in heart of old Jewish quarter.
Grand Hotel Prague, Staromestske namesti
22.
grandhotel@hotels-of-prague.com
4 star, 34 rooms. Historic building in Old Town Square.
Where to eat
Hergetova Cihelna
Cihelna 2b, Prague 1- Mala Strana
Tel 257 535 534 open noon – 11pm.
Located on the river near Charles Bridge. Traditional Czech food – potato soup,
pork and dumplings as well as modern, fusion dishes. Young English speaking
staff.
Kogo
Stare Mesto (Old Town) Havelska 27, Prague 1.
Tel. 224 214 543 – open 9am to midnight
Lively Italian trattoria on cobbled side street near Theatre of the Estates.
Great Pasta and seafood, esp. fresh mussels.
Café Imperial
Na Porici, 15
Tel. 222 316 012
Beautifully preserved Art Deco café, former haunt of Franz Kafka. Call in for
coffee and donuts, traditional chicken stew or glass of Absinthe. Live jazz
nights.
Visitor information
Prague Winter Festival
Website -
www.praguewinter.com
The International Festivals Bureau
Festival information and travel packages.
Website –
www.ifbarts.com
UK enquiries+9637
ukenquiries@ifbarts.com tel. 0870 247 1204
USA enquiries
newyork@ifbarts.com + 1 212 398 1568
Czech Airlines
www.czechairlines.com |
