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Capuchin Catacomb Of Bones In Rome

By Susan R. Norton

If you didn't know about it, you would never expect that the Church Santa Maria Immacolata Concezione, located on one of the busiest streets of Rome, the Via Veneto, is guardian to a cemetery like you have never seen. The Capuchin friars, who follow the precepts of St. Francis religiously and live in "radical simplicity," have looked after both church and crypt since the 16th century. These monks are bearded, hooded ("capuche" meaning "hood"), with sandals, no socks and considered the brothers of the people, especially of the sick and poor.

 

Before entering the church and off to the right are stairs that lead to the Capuchin Catacombs and a tourist experience like no other.  There are five chapels of skeletons and individual bones from over 4000 monks.  There are clothed skeletons waiting for the second coming of Christ, a chandelier make completely from bones and finger bones that form delicate flowers.  The motto there is, "Death closes the gates of time and opens those of eternity."

 

Today as in the past years since the 1500s, the monks are first buried in their country's soil, and the previously buried monk is removed to the catacombs.  It is a strange but fascinating hymn to life and celebration of afterlife.

The church above is wonderful, too. It has one main aisle down the middle and slightly elevated side chapels closed with wooden gates. Here is buried Cardinal Antonio Barberini, founder if the church. He wrote his own epitaph, which is etched on marble, "Here there is dust, ashes and nothing more." Also, buried here is Brother Mariano da Torino. He is called the "Capuchin of Italian TV."  He hosted three Catholic television shows in the 1960s, and his cause for canonization is being processed now.

 

On my way out to the Via Veneto and the busy sounds and scenes of Roma, I walked through the cemetery once again, I found that one should whisper and walk softly while there.  Reverence is an automatic response here. The whole experience that is both moving and morbid is also totally unforgettable.

GUIDEBOOK:

The Church Santa Maria della Concezione - Via Veneto, 27 Roma
Tel. 011-39-06-4871185
www.cappucciniviaveneto.it
Open 9 - 12 noon and 3 -6 PM
Closed Thursdays
Photos are not allowed

 


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