England’s Glorious North Country

By Valerie Summers

My favorite story from childhood recently inspired a visit to Northern England. It was in the exquisite Lake District of England that Beatrix Potter discovered the place where she belonged and the inspiration for her beloved children’s stories.

After attending a film on the life of the author whose first big seller was The Tale of Peter Rabbit, I recalled begging my mother to read the story to me over and over when I was a little girl.

My tour began in Manchester where reality has far exceeded reputation. Having visited there many years ago when it was indeed more of a factory town, it has become a vibrant, cosmopolitan city. As I toured the area, it was obvious that the influence of young architect, Ian Simpson, has breathed an air of sophistication into the city. The hotel which I stayed in, the newly opened, sleek Manchester Hilton, housed within the multi-use landmark Beetham Tower, was designed by Simpson. It soared 50 stories high over the historical Castlefield district’s red brick buildings providing an attractive counterpoint to Manchester’s past. Enhancing the livability of the city, public spaces and gardens have sprung up, including the Simpson-designed triangular glass exhibition center, Urbis, in the city center, attracting both residents and visitors.

Venturing inside what was originally the world’s oldest passenger railway station I viewed the diverse holdings of the Museum of Science and Industry housed in five historic buildings. Further exploration took me to the new shopping areas which rival those of any major city. I appreciated the respect for the city’s history in utilizing vintage buildings while creating state of the art interiors such as the ultra modern Triangle Shopping Mall housed in the former Corn Exchange. Inside the old Cotton Exchange, culture now reigns as The Royal Exchange Theatre rises up in the midst of this grand old hall like a spaceship, offering some of Manchester’s most outstanding theatrical experiences in this unique setting. I enjoyed exploring this dynamic city with its plethora of festivals, sports, culture and good dining while honoring its historic past.

Driving to the Lake District from Manchester proved somewhat of a challenge for this American driver but it was well worth it. My first stop in the charming lakeside village of Bownes-on Windermere in Cumbria was a visit to The World of Beatrix Potter Attraction. I thought this must be the most perfect place on earth for grandparents to take their young grandchildren for an outing although there were many more adults than children admiring the exquisite displays during my visit. Beautifully created three-dimensional scenes featured all the imaginative characters from Potter’s 23 stories with sounds, smells and lighting to bring the atmosphere of the stories to life. Throughout the year, the attraction presents special events adding even more enchantment to this magical experience. Beatrix Potter loved the lakeside area so much that she bought thousands of acres of land and countryside which she deeded to the National Trust when she died so the beauty of the area would remain untouched. The Lake District also provided inspiration for author William Wordsworth whose home is open to the public.

No visit to this area would be complete without a lake cruise in Windemere, the heart of the Lake District National Park and the largest lake in England. Cruise options offered an extensive fleet of modern and traditional launches and steamers including a relaxing 45-minute Islands Cruise and a three hour junket where I could hop off and on to visit other towns and attractions. I opted for the shorter version, albeit a very scenic one, passing beautiful homes and shore side flower filled gardens which the English do so well.

One afternoon, I motored down the winding roads of the lush English countryside towards Holker Hall & Gardens, one of the most beautiful places in all of Cumbria. Owned by the Cavendish family the house has passed by inheritance through the family line since the early 16th century. Driving through the gates and up through 200 acres of parkland and lakes, I knew I was in for something special and what I eventually saw …a stately manor house surrounded by magnificent gardens, took my breath away.

The Cavendish family described Holker as “more desirable, more favored by Providence and more enhanced with natural beauty than any other place on earth” and they have conserved it not only for themselves and their children but also for the thousands of visitors who come there each year. I felt a sense of joy and pride amongst the staff as I was proudly shown around by Myra Shephenson who offered history and fascinating insights into the family and their magnificent home. My tour included the library housing more than 3,500 books and the drawing room with walls covered with the original silk. The opulent yet tasteful furnishings featured Chippendale tables and a Louis XV roll-top writing desk. Upstairs I was shown the bedroom, decorated in scarlet, white and pink, where Queen Mary stayed when visiting Holker in 1937. I later toured the gardens with head gardener, Evyonne Cannon, who had dreamed of working on this estate for more than 10 years. Her dream had come to fruition a few months earlier and she delighted in showing off some of the 25 acres of gardens and flowers surrounding the great hall including the Holker Lime tree, planted in the early 17th century and considered one of the grandest trees in Britain.

Towards the end of my trip, I visited one of my favorite places, a UNESCO World Heritage Site….the 822 acre Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal. I wandered through the estate revisiting many of its highlights including the most complete ruins of a Cistercian Abbey in Britain and the elegant ornamental lakes. This place has always held a special magic for me. No other site in Europe contains such a rich variety of monuments from past ages. I sought out the stone statue of Hercules and Antaeus and the Neptune standing guard in the center of the Moon Pond. I passed the romantic Renaissance style Fountains Hall built partly with stone from the abbey ruins in the late 1500’s, now used an exhibition hall. The only new addition was a very attractive children’s park which reminded me of another children’s story, Frances Hodgson Burnett’s Secret Garden, made into a film in 1970, and partly filmed on the Fountains Estate. There could be no better way to spend a relaxing day in the English countryside than with a visit to Fountains Abbey and for a nice cup of tea in its lovely tea room.

I ended my trip in the ancient walled city of York where I had just enough time to stop by the York Minster, the largest Gothic cathedral in Northern Europe. Just outside a crowd gathered around a mysterious cloaked figure who was leading them on a ghost walk around the city. I ambled through the winding medieval streets until I came upon a familiar restaurant called Betty’s where I had dined on a previous visit and which I knew was a favorite with locals. Later, I enjoyed walking on a stretch of the beautifully preserved walls of the city, the longest medieval town walls in England. Although an ancient city, it is completely up to date with its fashionable shopping, excellent restaurants and bars, and a plethora of cultural choices including a variety of museums, all in a storybook setting.

Throughout my tour of Northern England, my accommodations, although extremely varied, all warranted rave reviews.

(The Devonshire Arms Country House Hotel & Spa proved to be a destination in itself rather than just a place to stay. Owned by the Duke and Duchess of Devonshshire, the Bolton Abbey Estate has been in their family since 1753. This hotel originally built as a coaching inn in the 17th century is situated on the vast estate where 80 miles of footpaths run along the River Wharfe leading to the spectacular ruins of the 12th century Bolton Priory, through the romantic landscape of Strid Wood and on to the moors. The hotel‘s furnishings and décor made it seem more like a grand country home rather than a hotel. Its intimate public spaces appeared to be charming living rooms. A spacious cocktail/tea lounge and two very different restaurants attracted many of the guests for a repast or after dinner libation. The award-winning Michelin star Burlington featured a 10 course tasting menu and stunning wine list which earned the honor of the best wine list in the UK. The other dining choice was the colorful and relaxed Devonshire Brasserie and Bar presenting a variety of meal choices including local specialties. In the morning, I breakfasted in a glass enclosed conservatory which extended from the Burlington providing the same view as from my exquisite guest room. Both looked out onto a perfectly manicured Italian garden and in the seemingly never ending distance, the moors and fells of Lower Wharfdale.

In the blossoming city of Manchester, the five star Hilton Deansgate, sleek and modern, with its spacious guest rooms and up market bathrooms which incorporated Viceroy and Boch fixtures and Crabtree & Evelyn amenities was first class all the way. Touring the property, I stopped at the 23rd floor to tour the spacious, glass walled executive lounge which offered drinks, snacks and continental breakfasts in a private setting. On the same floor, but only accessible by a separate elevator I stopped for a drink at the very popular and strikingly contemporary Cloud cocktail lounge with walls of windows overlooking the twinkling lights of the city.

Although I have a passion for castles, I have toured many, but had never stayed in one until my visit to Augill Castle. The proprietors’ philosophy at the five diamond Augill is that it “offers guests space to breath, time to reflect and the luxury to live slowly and full as in harmony with our surroundings as possible.” A canopied bed with royal blue décor, big, yummy pillows and towels and fresh ground coffee in my spacious room which overlooked the front garden was the perfect solution for a weary traveler.

I could not ask for a warmer greeting than I received from Marian and Tom Ewing, the owners of the inviting Beachwood Bed and Breakfast in the town of Bowness on Windermere in the Lake District where I was immediately shown into the sitting room for a cup of tea. Later, I relaxed in my cozy room all done up in raspberry and cream. The location was perfect for a walk into town to dine at the highly recommended Michelin star White House for dinner.

My final night in England’s north country was spent at the eclectic Mount Royale Hotel in York. You can’t tell a book by its cover would certainly describe this property. Originally two houses, built circa 1833, they were joined together to create a hotel. The modest lobby belies the spacious guest rooms, of which I toured several, all modern in their amenities including up to date bathroom facilities and spacious wardrobes. The current wing where I stayed was built in 1993, its hallway to the guest rooms seemingly not attached to the main house, all modern, bright and filled with plants. My lovely room was totally modern and featured a mini-porch where I could relax and enjoy the surrounding gardens.

Departing from the York railroad station, I boarded a first class BritRail Virgin train car where I was comfortably seated in a spacious window side chair fronted by a private table and discovered an audio entertainment system at my seat. The time spent aboard the train gave me a much appreciated opportunity to relax. I perused the bright red menu and discovered, depending on the time of day, the Virgin experience features a variety of offerings including breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. I feasted on a delicious roasted lamb shank with all the trimmings, finishing with a tasty apple tart. The high level of service could easily be compared to a business-class flight. During the 2 ½ hour trip to London, I watched the beautiful English countryside and reminisced about the varied places I visited in Northern England as we sped along away from the land of Flopsy, Mopsy, Cottontail and Peter who sprang to life in the artistry of the imaginative Miss Potter.

For information:

Augill Castle
Nr. Kirkby Stephen
Cumbria
www.stayinacastle.com

Beechwood
Beresford Road
Bowness-on-Windermere
Cumbria
www.beechwoodlakes.co.uk

BritiRail offers a variety of options including FlexPasses which allow unlimited rail travel on four non-consecutive or consecutive days. There are over 18,000 daily train departures to 2,500 destinations covering the length and breath of Great Britain. Passengers are given total freedom to hop on and off any train in the system at will using this pass. Other popular Britrail passes are specially designed and priced for children, adults, youths and seniors with validity options that cater to the needs of the business traveler or the vacationing student. With 26 different train operating companies, each offers its own level of service.
866-BRITRAIL
www.britrail.com

British Air, certainly one of my favorite airlines with its prompt and dependable service, delicious menu choices, and comfortable waiting lounges and in Business Class those private sleeping compartments which allow passengers to arrive at their destination well rested. Always working to make their passengers more comfortable, BA is busily re-fitting their Boeing 747s with new larger beds and improved in-flight entertainment systems. The Club kitchen is always open for snacks in case passengers are still hungry after one of their splendid meals.
800/ 247-9297
www.ba.com

Devonshire Arms Country House Hotel & Spa
Bolton Abbey, Skipton
North Yorkshire
reception@devonshirehotels.co.uk
www.devonshirehotels.co.uk

Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal
Ripon, Nr. Harrogate
North Yorkshire
www.fountainsabbey.org.uk

Hilton Manchester Deansgate
303 Deansgate
Manchester
www.hilton.co.uk/manchesterdeansgate

Holker Hall
Cark-In-Cartmel
Cumbria
www.holker-hall.co.uk

Manchester Visitor Information Centre
Town Hall Extension, Lloyd St.
Manchester
touristinformation@marketing-manchester.co.uk

Mount Royale Hotel
The Mount, York
www.mountroyale.co.uk/york

The World of Beatrix Potter
The Old Laundry
Bowness-on-Windermere, Cumbria
information@hop-skip-jump.com
www.hop-skip-jump.com

Windermere Lake Cruises
www.windermere-lakecruises.co.uk

York Tourism Bureau
20 George Hudson Street
York
www.visityork.org

Photos: Valerie Summers