What Makes It Great? (French Chocolate That Is)
By Sally Peabody
 I confess to an occasional craving for the
chocolate/salty/sweet perfection of a Snickers bar. But my deeper, more
enduring chocolate-passions are for luscious, dark French chocolates. Fabulous
chocolates are readily available all over France and in astonishing abundance in
neighborhoods humble and haute across the French capital. Every quarter, it
seems, sports alluringly intimate chocolate shops, some tending to the
classical, some to the whimsical, some resembling purveyors of fine, deliciously
edible jewels.
Having tasted chocolates all around Paris and thinking
about the remarkable level of quality and variety readily accessible there for
chocolate aficionados, I began to wonder what it is that makes master
chocolatiers truly great. What distinguishes their creations from the
multitudes that are merely wonderful? And what is it about French-style
chocolates that distinguishes them from the estimable chocolates made in
Belgium, in the USA, or from Swiss chocolates?
A recent conversation with Ms. Lisa Kajita, who handles
media relations for the very vaut-le-voyage master chocolatier Jean Paul Hevin
shed much light on these questions. First of all, and not surprising, the
quality of the chocolate is critical to making the very finest bonbons and
varied chocolate candies, patisserie and even chocolate for drinking. And like
many fine-food commodities, the supply of truly superb chocolate is limited on
world markets and is accessible only to chocolatiers who know where to buy, know
what to buy and who have enduring relationships with suppliers. Then, there is
the knowledge of how to blend variously sourced chocolates with differing cacao
content to create, consistently, the lusciousness-factor, the mouth-feel and the
visual appeal. That is just for starters. Next the questions of the
chocolatier’s signature style come into play. Sound a bit like the world of
wine? It is.
The French prefer dark chocolates that are crafted with a
goal of perfect flavor-equilibrium according to Ms. Kajita. Monsieur Hevin
blends chocolates to reach that absolutely balanced note of chocolate-ness.
Then, he thinks about the relationship with the fillings or the toppings with an
eye to pairing flavors that may be complimentary or may contrast in intriguing
ways (think Roquefort cheese covered with dark chocolate). Always, that
benchmark of equilibrium is critical. No one thing should dominate and the
entire experience of tasting the chocolate should raise the ‘marriage’ of
flavors to a new, complimentary level. This, I decided, is why exquisite dark
French chocolates are so satisfyingly delicious, and why it is possible to eat
one, well, maybe two, and not feel compelled to polish off half of the box.
Another happy fact is that quality chocolates high in cocoa
content are lower in fat, thus it is possible to enjoy fine chocolates in
moderation without undue waistline-worry. What about those other styles of
chocolates? Belgian chocolates tend to be higher-fat chocolates and Swiss
chocolates tend to be made with milk chocolate. While I’ve enjoyed delicious
milk or “light” chocolates in Paris and even surprisingly flavorful white
chocolate creations, the richness of those types is derived more from the fat
content.
So for sophistication, sometimes delightfully surprising
(but not pushing-the-envelope) flavors and guaranteed gastronomic satisfaction,
seek out French-style artisanal chocolates. When in Paris, one can find the
perfect chocolate trifecta at Jean Paul Hevin’s rue St. Honore shop and second
floor salon. Here it is possible to enjoy a decadent chocolate pastry, a cup of
surpassingly rich, hand-made chocolat chaud, and, to buy an assortment of
superlative chocolates on the way out the door. After such an experience the
world looks sunny indeed!
Jean Paul Hevin. 231 rue St. Honore, Paris.
Sally Peabody is a Paris Specialist. She leads small group
tours to immerse in markets, food, wine, tea and yes, chocolate, in Paris, works
with independent travelers to organize memorable trips, and writes about Paris,
a city she knows well and loves dearly!
http://www.yourgreatdaysinparis.com |
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