The Colors of Quebec By Valerie Summers

The Colors of Quebec

An Autumn Outing

By Valerie Summers

Although New England’s famed fall foliage is fabulous, neighbors to the north offer equally spectacular colors minus the never-ending parade of automobiles. Beyond Quebec City, un-trafficked wide-open highways and roadways through the brilliantly colored countryside allow autumn leaf aficionados to view the scenery unhurriedly.

I arrived in beautiful Quebec City as the starting point for an October Canadian country outing. Motoring along highway 73 towards my first destination, Le Nordique Nordic spa, I was astounded by the colors of the foliage surrounding me. Being from Southern California, I previously experienced fall as the turning of the leaves on my liquid amber tree. The intense color of the crimson leaves along the highway made them appear spray-painted as they punctuated surrounding foliage of amber, ginger, raspberry and rust interspersed with evergreens.

Nordic Spas have recently taken off in a big way in the province of Quebec. This was my first experience. Of course I knew about the Scandinavians who, for centuries, have enjoyed sitting in the sauna, and then rolling in the snow, but this would be a slightly different experience. Set on a hillside in Stoneham, above the scenic Jacques Cartier River, the setting could not be more beautiful. I entered a modern, Scandinavian-style decorated lobby with a roaring fireplace and picture windows overlooking the facilities and the rushing river. The day was chilly and the steam rooms and sauna sounded inviting. I was not sure about following with the cold plunge. After changing into my bathing suit in the locker room, I headed down to the lower level where on one side, a building housed the Turkish steam room and resting room and on the other, the Finnish sauna and resting room. Everything was immaculate. Scattered throughout, several people braved the chilly plunge pools with some daring souls jumping into the river. Others soaked in steaming Jacuzzis which seemed to be the gathering places for relaxed conversations. Quebecois have discovered this respite to be a welcome answer to the year ‘round yen for the great outdoors. It seemed a perfect choice for an outing in the beautiful countryside any time of year. I topped off my visit with an excellent massage given by Karl Gregoire, whose youthful looks belied his skillful hands, before continuing on my excursion, fully relaxed.

Driving on to my next stop, I continued being dazzled by the vibrant autumn colors splashed along the sides of the highway. My destination was the lovely village of Baie-Saint-Paul, rather reminiscent of the Carmel, California of bygone days. The Charlevoix region owes its magnificent geography to a 15-billion ton meteorite that fell to earth 350 million years ago. This enchanting area has long inspired painters, poets, writers and musicians and I enjoyed exploring several of its galleries and boutiques. One of this cultural mecca’s most famous exports is the Cirque du Soleil whose streets were the birthplace of the world renowned entertainment troupe. The town was dotted with the easels of sidewalk painters, unique shops and wonderful restaurants – this is French Canada, you know, so pretty much all the food in the province is delicious. As the day grew late, I happened onto the newly opened Microbrasserie de Charlevoix where I stopped for an elegantly presented beer tasting and light dinner before heading to my hotel.

The Fairmont Le Manior Richelieu, like its sisters in Banff, Victoria and Quebec City, harkens back to days of elegance. This grand manor surrounded by dense woods, sits atop a cliff over looking the great St. Lawrence River. This setting lent itself to a rejuvenating visit where almost anywhere I looked I was enthralled by the spectacular scenery. A pathway along the cliff offered private benches for breathtaking views, sometimes the waters punctuated by migrating great whales. I often chose just to sit there quietly and be a part of the scenery. However, I was offered access to the adjoining golf course, tennis courts, and river sports and for a real change of pace, a trip to the adjoining casino. This resort features a variety of restaurants, almost all highlighted by views of the St. Lawrence. The hotel’s signature award winning Le Charlevoix featured regional cuisine in a comfortable yet exclusive setting filled with local art and refurbished antiques. For more casual fare, Le St-laurent’s abundant gastronomic buffet table put me in a quandary with so many choices. Post dinner and during the afternoon, I often enjoyed perching myself in the glass enclosed La Brise Lobby Bar gazing out at the beautiful gardens and great river while sipping something cool.

Fully rested, next morning, I headed to La Malbaie to a sea kayaking adventure with Katabatik, preceded by a safety briefing. I donned a wet suit which they provided and which, along with my sun visor, made for a very comfortable outing along Charlevoix’s St. Lawrence River, the trees along its shore ablaze with vibrant fall colors. Katabatik offers a variety of picturesque guided kayak trips for all levels of experience.

One afternoon I drove through the glorious countryside to le Parc des Hautes-Gorges de la Riviere-Malbaie for another scenic tour via a much smaller river than the St. Lawrence. This time, I boarded a glass-topped boat, and with a park naturalist, experienced the quiet beauty of this unspoiled, spectacular Canadian wilderness park. The naturalist provided a rich history of the area while pointing out special features and wild life as we navigated through the deep gorge with startlingly beautiful mountain peaks of the Laurentians on either side. Here and there I spotted rock climbers slowly making their way to the top. At this time of year, it was very quiet, the summer holidays over, a definite bonus for me. The park, which allows no recreational vehicles other than bicycles, opens in mid-May and closes mid-October.

One of my favorite stops during this trip was Station touristique Duchesnay, an area I have visited on several occasions in the past. Last winter I stayed overnight at the famed Ice Hotel which rises up each winter from what was now a green meadow. But this was fall and I participated in a variety of different outdoor activities. Duchesnay literally offers something for everyone, every age and every season. The vast property, situated on Lake Saint-Joseph includes a variety of accommodations and outdoor activities. I enjoyed trying my hand at the archery range and discovered the latest in equipment was much easier than the bows I had learned on way back when. I hiked the trails through the fall colors, and then headed for the stables and a gallop through the countryside. I was not quite up to the challenge of the Canopy Canyon Adventure but was told by another visitor that it was a thrilling experience. I rounded off my day at Duchesnay with a rabaska canoe ride over to one of the islands for a bit of exploring. I could imagine the now peaceful lake in the summer crowded with swimmers, kayaks and pedal boats.

Returning to Quebec City, I had time for just one more outing, this one via bicycle, to the Parc de la Chute-Montmorency. This is one of Quebec’s natural wonders, the focal point of which is its spectacular waterfall, higher than Niagara Falls. After a brief cable car ride, I hiked across the bridge which spans the falls, admiring the spectacular sight of the rushing waters against a backdrop of the colors of the season.

My autumn visit will remain a wonderful memory not only for the spectacular explosion of fall colors I witnessed, but for the tranquility I experienced while exploring the Canadian countryside sans the crowds of summer. On my next visit to Quebec City, however, after my relaxing October outing, I will be ready for the special celebrations that will rock this historic city in 2008, honoring its 400th anniversary.

For information:

Air Canada
888/247-2262
www.aircanada.com

Charlevoix Tourism
800 /667-2276
www.tourisme-charlevoix.com

Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu
181 rue Richelieu
La Malbaie, Quebec
Canada G5A1X7
800/441-1414
418/665-3703
www.fairmont.com/richelieu

Hotel Loews Le Concorde: On Grande Allee, this four-star four-diamond hotel offers more than 400 of the most spacious rooms in Quebec City and features a revolving restaurant on its top floor.
1225 cours du General-De Montcalm
Quebec City G1R 4W6
800/463-5256
www.loewsleconcorde.com

Katabatik
Marina of Cap-a-L’Aigle
418/665-2332
www.katabatik.ca

Le Nordique Spa
747 chemin Jacques-Cartier Nord
Stoneham-et-Tewkesbury
Quebec G0A 4P0
418/848-7727
www.lenordique.com

Le Parc des Hautes-Gorges de la Riviere-Malbaie/
www.sepaq.com/pg/hgo/en

Station Touristique Duchesnay
143 route Duchesnay
Sainte-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier
GOA 3MO
418/875-2122
www.sepaq.com/duchesnay

Quebec Tourism
877/266-5687 (BONJOUR)
www.bonjourquebec.com

: Valerie Summers