Snow in August
By Chantel Acevedo
 There
is something both moving and disorienting about snow in August. But a year
without summer is worth the trade when you’ve spent your summer in New Zealand’s
South Island. Late winter in the heart of the Southern Alps is a landscape of
mile high mountain peaks, low, brown, tarns, rapid streams, and limestone
caves. Wetlands and desert landscapes are home to talking, green parrots called
Kea who will steal your car keys if left unattended, as well as Wrybill Plovers
nesting in riverbeds. The Maori of New Zealand first called the Southern
Alps Te Ko Awa a Aniwaniwa, or the Valley of the Mother of the Rainbows. Most
visitors to this beautiful region of New Zealand call it Arthur’s Pass. And
there is no better way to visit the Southern Alps than with a stay at the
Wilderness Lodge Arthur’s Pass.
 The
Lodge is situated south of Christchurch on a nearly 7,500 acre nature reserve.
Conservation is a major focus at the Lodge and the nature guides at the Lodge
embrace the concept of ecotourism. The Lodge itself is a combination of luxury
hotel and eco-classroom. The lobby showcases giant windows with spectacular
views of the snow-capped Alps. The views stretch out past mountain beech
forests, the sweep of the Waimakariri River, and Mt. Rolleston, the highest
mountain in Arthur’s Pass. The windows invite hikes, or tramping as the
locals call it, even in the snow. Clear trails lead into the forest and
tussock, and guided nature trips and canoeing in the Waimakariri River occur
daily, all included in the Lodge price.
The Lodge is family owned, and there is a sense of “home” at the Lodge,
evident in the home-style meals, the open lobby that encourages mingling with
other guests, and the friendly nature guides. There are only twenty rooms at
the Lodge, and so it never feels crowded, which only adds to that homey
atmosphere.
 The
McSweeney and Jarman families who own the Lodge trace their New Zealand farming
ancestry back to 1860. During my stay at the Wilderness Lodge, my guide, Gerry
McSweeney, led our group through the historic Maori Greenstone Trail to the
sub-alpine summit of the pass. We explored wetlands, tarns, and alpine
herbfields of the Southern Alps. Gerry led us by river gorges and waterfalls
near Bealey Glacier and pointed out squawking kea along the way. A packed lunch
was provided, and we ate it at the foot of a glacier, underneath a sign that
read “Avalanche Warning.” Indeed, great sheets of snow had come off the
mountain lately, and our group sat among boulders that seemed to be tucked into
layers and layers of white snow.
The packed lunch was delicious, and prepared at the intimate Mt. Rolleston
restaurant, which features full breakfasts in the morning, as well as indulgent
dinners that include lamb raised on the farm.
 During
my stay, I cuddled a lamb the staff had named Beau, then couldn’t bring myself
to order any lamb at dinner, so play with the sheep at the Lodge at your peril.
The menu also features New Zealand fish, meat and vegetables.
The rooms are spacious, and each has the same incredible view. Visitors will
remember, only in retrospect, that the rooms have no televisions or Internet
connections. The Lodge features the David McCleod Library which houses a
collection of high country and nature books, as well as small conference rooms
where the nature guides give audio-visual talks on alpine plants and wildlife,
as well as New Zealand’s high country heritage.
 In
addition to the rare plants and wildlife protected by the conservationism of the
Lodge, New Zealand’s “sheepish” history is highlighted. There are far more
sheep in New Zealand than there are people, and even Parliament, which has both
Maori and Pakeha (white European) seats, has sheepskins draped on the chairs to
represent those other, wooly Kiwis! The Wilderness Lodge at Arthur’s Pass is
home to a working sheep farm. The Lodge offers a tour of the 6,000 acre farm
and a demonstration of sheep mustering by Skip, the Border Collie sheepdog.
During the tour, I fed giant horned merino rams, and learned about the different
types of super fine merino wool in the woolshed, as well as the ins and outs of
shearing sheep.
While visitors to New Zealand’s South Island often focus on the excitement
and thrills of Queenstown, the quiet majesty of the Alps and the diversity of
the flora and fauna of the region are well worth a visit. Arthur’s Pass
inspires meditation, fires the imagination, and rejuvenates the spirit.
For further information contact:
Wilderness Lodge Arthur’s Pass
P.O. Box 33
Arthur’s Pass 8190 New Zealand
Ph: +64 3 381 9246
http://www.wildernesslodge.co.nz/ |
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