Nice and Marseille Are Magical Cities on the French Mediterranean

by Marian Betancourt

Nice and Marseille are two very different French Mediterranean cities but both were born of a similar magic woven by sea and sun. Marseille is the oldest and second largest city in France with a multicultural population of just under a million. Nice is France’s fifth largest city but until 1860 it belonged to the neighboring Italians. Like the other cities along the Cote d’Azur Nice is a narrow strip along the coast with the villages of Provence stacked up on the hills behind it.

As part of the French Riviera, Nice is a magnet for the “beautiful people,” but it is also home to artists attracted by the fantastic light. The big yellow building where Matisse lived and painted for many years is at the center of the old town near the antique marketplace. There is a Matisse Museum here along with many others art museums and galleries. (The hotels in Nice honor the city’s art heritage by showcasing local artists in lobby exhibitions.)

Driving into the Provence countryside around Nice is an adventure on steep narrow roads with hairpin turns. You can rent a car and drive yourself, but some of these roads might be a bit intimidating. Tours such as Nice Prestige Excursions make it very easy to explore this area and leave the driving to others.

In St. Agnes, the highest village on the coast, you must leave your car to explore the narrow cobblestone lanes on foot. Among the modest stone buildings is a profusion of flowers and lavender that attracts painters from all over the world. The village supports two restaurants overlooking the deep valleys where you can enjoy Provencal food such as rabbit braised in wine flavored sauce, vegetable torte of chard, zucchini and herbs de Provence—rosemary, thyme, basil, and marjoram. Fresh olive oil, tomatoes and garlic are the cornerstones of Provencal cuisine along with onion, olives, anchovies, eggplant, and of course, truffles. In the tiny shops here you can find inexpensive souvenirs relating to the cuisine, such as a mill for grinding herbs de Provence or a ceramic gadget the size of a teaspoon with ridges for pressing the juice from a clove of garlic.

In Marseille where bouillabaisse was invented, the cuisine shares the abundance of fresh vegetables from Provence with a focus on seafood. At La Miramar restaurant at the edge of the old port (Vieux Port), bouillabaisse is theatre! Waiters in tuxedos serve dinner guests in a backdrop of romantic lighting, upholstered banquets and paneled walls with large gold framed mirrors and paintings. First a dish of the flavorful saffron-laced broth is brought to you, along with toast and rouille and then the multitude of fish is presented to the table with great fanfare. Should you develop an addiction to this tasty dish, you can get lessons in the preparation of bouillabaisse with Chef Christian Buffa. Marseille is also home to the oldest bakery in France, Le Four des Navettes known for its anise-flavored cookies shaped like fishing boats.

The old port is the heart of Marseille, a major European pleasure boat capital and the site of the sailing Tour de France. There are at least 1700 sailboats berthed in Vieux Port surrounded by hotels, cafes and shops. A daily fish market draws crowds as does the flower and produce markets offering the abundance from the farms of Provence.

For centuries, grateful fishermen brought gifts to Notre Dame de la Garde (Lady of the Guard), a cathedral built in the 13th century on the highest hill in the city and expanded over time. Strings of model fishing boats hang from the magnificent painted ceiling and the walls are covered with the donated framed paintings and photographs of fishing boats. From the outside steps you can see all of Marseille.

Marseille is a terrific walking city. In the steep narrow lanes of the old city, such as the Panier neighborhood, some of the cobblestone streets still have the deep curbside gutters where centuries ago household waste water drained to the sea. Along with clotheslines and children playing, this neighborhood is home to some small shops featuring handcrafted jewelry and other items.

Wild herbs grow in the desert-like landscape of the limestone hills around the city. La Corniche, the road that lines the edge of the city like a balcony over the sea will lead you to Les Goudes, an old fishing neighborhood. At a dock side restaurant such as La Marine des Goudes, try some little fishes breaded and fried whole with aioli, or mussels baked in shells with almonds.

Radisson SAS hotels offer the ultimate in comfort and luxury in both Nice and Marseille. The brand new 189-room hotel in Vieux Port is a hip and elegant waterfront hotel bustling with international business people, movie crews and a few hip hop stars. (United States Senators Joseph Lieberman and presidential hopeful John McCain were recent visitors.) The city’s heritage is celebrated with the elegant maritime prints in the lobby and also the signature restaurant, Solaris, featuring modern Provencal cuisine with the influences of Spain, Italy, Morocco, and Greece.

In Nice, the Radisson SAS is on the famous Promenade des Anglaise, the coastal road created by the British who came here in great numbers in the 19th century to escape their chilly gray climate. Built in the 1970s the131-room hotel has been completely redesigned while keeping its “moderne” architectural feel. There is a fabulous rooftop pool and La Terasse restaurant overlooking the sea where the knockout view, especially at night, is like a string of sparkling beads around the sea. The Radisson is a favorite for business travelers but offers everything any leisure traveler could want including a sauna, pool, restaurants, and bars. Rent a bike at the hotel and pedal along the Promenade for a big dose of sea air with your morning exercise.

It is easy to get to both Nice and Marseille from the United States. There are direct flights from New York to Nice via Delta and Air France. If you go to Nice first, take the 2 ½ hour train ride to Marseille. And while there are plenty of flights from Marseille, it is more fun to take the high-speed TGV train from Marseille to Paris to catch a flight home. At speeds of up to 200 mph that you don’t even feel, you make the 600 mile trip in just three hours. If, like many Americans, you have never been on a long-distance train, you are in for a special treat. It’s like flying without leaving the ground.

If you go: www.niceprestigeexcursions@orange.fr, www.restaurants-stagnes.com, www.bouillabaisse.com, www.radissonsas.com, www.raileurope.com.

Photos: Courtesy Radisson SAS and the author