Swaziland, the Hidden Kingdom

by Diana Ellis

Most people have never heard of Swaziland. If they have they either don’t know where it is or think that is part of South Africa. Actually Swaziland is an independent mountain kingdom bordering South Africa and Mozambique. They have had their independence since 1968. Prior to 1968, they were a British protectorate whose chief or king was officially acknowledged as native leader in 1941. Swaziland was able to remain independent from the South Africa by providing assistance to the British against the Zulu’s and during the Boer War.

At only 6,704 square miles (17,363 square kms) it is the smallest country in the southern hemisphere. They have their own government and currency. They are an absolute monarchy and have a hereditary king, Mswati III. You must go through a border crossing the enter Swaziland from South Africa.

Most of the 1.1 million people who call Swaziland home still follow the traditional ways of life. Bride price is still paid in cattle. It is not uncommon to see cattle or “Swazi traffic lights” roaming the roads. They are called this because when you come across a cow on the road you must stop, hence they are traffic lights. The main exports are sugar, wood pulp and minerals. Tourism helps keep the economy afloat.

During the apartheid era, Swaziland was a popular tourist destination with South Africans who would come to Swaziland to escape the restrictions imposed by segregation. They would come to gamble in one of the many casinos or enjoy Swaziland’s famous night life. Today people visit Swaziland for the mountain scenery, wildlife parks and to buy local arts and crafts.

Stop at Pigg’s Peak for lunch and to enjoy the fantastic view of the country side. Have some lemon grass tea with eucalyptus honey, made from lemon grass produced on the nearby mountains. Shop for handcrafts made by the local women’s co-op. The jewelry, woven cloth products and baskets are some of the best in Africa.

Visit one of the game reserves and take a wildlife tours. See four of the big five (lion, elephant, rhino, and leopard, sorry no water buffalo) in Hlane Royal National Park located in eastern Swaziland. Visit the Mlilwane Wildlife sanctuary in the ezulwini valley (valley of heaven) and see giraffe, hippo, crocodile, zebra and impala. Enjoy a real “bush” experience in southwestern Swaziland at the Mkhaya Game Reserve. Or hire a 4x4 and explore the Mbuluzi Game reserve in the foothills of the Lubombo mountains where over 300 species of birds live.

Avid bird watchers will find Swaziland to be a bird watchers paradise. Many rare and endangered birds inhabit Swaziland’s game preserves. It is not uncommon to see falcons, kingfishers and white faced ducks in the Hawane Reserve. The Mlawula Reserve is home to several birds of prey, including five types of vultures as well as many rare birds like the narina trogan, African broadbill, African finfoot, yellow spotted nicator and the grey sunbird. At the Malolotja Reserve you will find the rare bald Isis. Visit any of the game reserves and you will see many of the over 350 species of birds found in Swaziland.

At the craft market at Ezulwini you can find African crafts of all types; carvings, jewelry, fabrics, anything you could want. Be prepared to bargain and you will find the prices to be better than those in South Africa.

No trip to Swaziland would be complete without a visit to the Ngwenya Glass Factory. Watch a glass blowing demonstration and see local artists make glass animals, tableware, drinking glasses, vases and jugs from recycled glass. Swazi school children are encouraged to collect bottles for the glass factory. The students help with road side cleanup in exchange for sponsorship of their soccer team. The factory also donates a percentage from all sales to the Ngwenya Glass Rhino and Elephant Fund which helps to save endangered and rare animals from extinction.

The glass products produced in Ngwenya are on par with those you will find in Italy. Purchase a glass souvenir to take home with your and you not only have something to remember your trip to Swaziland with, you will be leaving something behind for Swaziland to remember you by.

How about attending a traditional cultural ceremony such as the Umhlanga (Reed dance) held in the fall each year? This is where the King often selects his wives from the maidens participating in the dance. King Mswati III currently has 12 wives and is reputed to always be looking for more. Or witness the Incwala (first fruits ceremony) held in late December, early January.

The people of Swaziland, who are laid back and friendly, combined with the beautiful mountain scenery make Swaziland an ideal stop over during any visit to South Africa.