Sailing the South Seas to fun and Adventure

by Larry Taylor

Going from one intense experience to the next–that is travel at its best.

To illustrate–here we were in the highlands in Rabaul, Papua New Guinea, looking out at the vast verdant valley before us, its beauty obscured yet enhanced by clouds After a few minutes of luxuriating in the view, we tourists crawled back in the van to head down to the base of a smoking  volcano near the harbor–out of the heights down to the depths, as it were.

Before we parked in front of the smoldering crater, it had begun to rain. We warily ventured out on the path but soon realized that this wasn’t rain as we knew it, but wet ash falling on us. Tentatively we approached, awed by the ominous rumble seemingly coming from the bowels of the earth, causing the ground to vibrate. As we wiped the wet ashes from our eyes and mouth, suddenly someone began laughing. We all joined in–high on adrenalin, exhilarated at being so close to nature’s overwhelming force.

All this on our fourth day out on a Zegrahm Expedition’s Best of Melanesia and Micronesia cruise on the Clipper Odyssey.

We had first boarded ship in Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea’s capitol, and soon headed northeast first bound for PNG islands off the  mainland, including the Trobriand, Marshall Bennett and East New Britain groups.

Joining some 100 guests on board were a host of scientists, photographers, dive masters–all experts who would give talks about the anthropology, art, flora and fauna of the exotic areas. They would give us daily presentations regarding the places visited.

Needless to say, this two-week itinerary appealed to adventurous, people interested in exploring and educating themselves regarding off-the-beaten-path parts of the world. Hikers, bird-watchers–nature lovers in general were on board. As well, the majority were either divers or  snorkelers; most days offered opportunities to swim among  pristine coral reefs and to view colorful  tropical  marine life.

For the first half of the trip, the ship visited at least one island a day. Some islanders rarely hosted outsiders. At one, the natives hadn’t seen tourists for two years.

Each time we anchored offshore, tribe-members came out to greet us in their dugout canoes, waving and blowing conch shells. First stops were in the Trobriand Islands, famous for their yam cults and kula ring of trading.

Taken to the shore in Zodiacs, our group got off, usually walking a short way to a village. People seemed genuinely glad to see us and assembled to present us with tribal dances.

Among the islands, our second stop, Kitava, had the most impressive dancers. Introduced  by the school headmaster, the young women performed ritual coming-of-age dances; the young men fierce war dances, both to rhythmic drumbeats.

All were colorfully costumed. The women were bare-breasted as is the custom. Men had applied vivid  makeup. Both wore grass skirts. (Men had Levis underneath–we know as one lost his skirt when animatedly jumping.)  

Yams are the staple diet of the Trobriands, not sweet like ours, but more close to the potato.  Their harvest and storage become an occasion for a festival. Ornately decorated yam huts are used for storage and can be seen in the center of the villages.

On Kitava, we were given a view of village life and taken to their abundant gardens–yams central, along with tapioca and breadfruit, and mango and papaya tress everywhere. Chickens ran loose and pigs were fenced next to homes. Fish, of course, is another staple. As a matter of fact, the islanders generally seemed healthy and happy.

Not completely self-sufficient, islanders regularly went by boat to bigger islands in order to get staples, such as flour, sugar and coffee. Government services included schools and regular visits by doctors and dentists. On one of our stops, a man approached who had an eye infection, and our ship doctor treated it.

Regarding kula, it is a trading system begun thousands of years ago by the Papuans to avoid the warfare and bloodshed between clans that had become tradition on the Trobriands. As part of the ritual, delicately carved canoes are blessed with magic before setting sail for neighboring islands where exchanges are made of ornate kula necklaces and armbands. Holding one of these treasured items grants status and fame to the current possessor, but the kula traders are only the guardians of these items and they will be traded again.

In the villages, as can be imagined, there were ample goods for us to buy. In fact, kula necklaces were on display but the anthropologist on board advised us not to buy them because exporting these artifacts is illegal.

Standing out for sale were intricately designed splash boards from canoes, large decorative masks as well as jewelry, mats, bags–all fairly priced. The wares were mostly on display along the village path which, incidentally, was flanked by trees in which varieties of local orchids were blooming. 

One island, Iwam, was especially interesting geologically. Its village was located at the top of three layers of coral strata, making for a steep climb up with a rustic ladder and rope to help ascend the vertical rock wall. From below, it was amusing to watch the young native boys helping us “old timers” with a timely push or pull.             

Life aboard ship was always interesting, both restful and stimulating, just as a cruise should be.  Continental breakfast was always available in the Lido Day Lounge for early risers who also had the option of a 7:30 “Stretch and Groan with Little John” Most mornings John Yersin, cruise expedition leader, led the 45-minute exercise session in the Main Lounge.  As the length of the cruise progressed, the numbers in the class expanded,  perhaps an attempt at fighting the pounds that seem to add up at sea.  A small gym and swimming pool were also available for a work out.

The pool deck boasted a small bar and lounge chairs where one could take a nap, read or enjoy lunch in the warm sun. The Lido Day Lounge, also on the pool deck, served a light lunch.. One day the lunch feature was sushi, another a delicious curry.

Downstairs in the dining room a buffet breakfast was set up although menu service was available.  Lunch and dinner were served by a very efficient and friendly staff and the menu items changed daily. At dinner, there was always a fish, several meat choices and a vegetarian entree. All breads and desserts, including ice cream, were made daily.

Following dinner, most retired to their cabins after having been on-the-go since early morning.  Others ventured into the Main Lounge to have a nightcap and to listen to a talented young Ukranian at the grand piano. 

One hour before dinner guests gathered in the Lounge for a Recap and Briefing with “Little John,” and the other naturalists. On board this trip was Jack Grove, one of the Zegrahm founders who served a snorkel leader and gave talks on marine life. .

On the fourth day out, we pulled into the harbor of Rabaul, capital of PNG’s  New Britain Islands, one of the country’s largest cities. The harbor is surrounded by six volcanoes, and in 1992 there were simultaneous eruptions from two of the volcanoes which buried the city in ash. It had to be rebuilt on the other side of harbor. 

Since that time, the still-active Tavurrvurr cone has been belching towering plumes  of smoke and pumice which can be seen from miles away. Consequently, in the city, a film of dust covers everything. We couldn’t help thinking that  it must be unhealthy to constantly breathe this air. We asked our Papuan tour guide, and she shrugged, saying, “We’re used to it.”

First on our agenda was a visit to a small museum, featuring an interesting collection of native art and Japanese relics from WWII. Several on the trip were looking forward to seeing artifacts from the war which abounded in this area. One included a veteran who had been shot down near this island.

After our museum stop, we headed back for a close-up view of the volcano when, suddenly, traffic ahead came to a halt. We found that the road, which had been dry a half- hour earlier, was now cut-off by a flash flood. After consideration, our group of vans turned around and took a longer, upper road which, serendipitously, brought us to the wonderful view of the cloud-filled valley.

Soon, we left for the volcano-in-the-rain experience. After our soaking in ash, the driver called the ship, telling the crew to have  hoses ready to wash us off before we boarded. (We all looked like survivors from a disaster movie.)

With all the natural pyrotechnics on display, it seemed appropriate that we would attend a  performance that night of a fire dance by the Baining tribe. The tribal dancers came in from the central part of the island. At a large field, our group gathered in a circle around a pile of wood. As these dancers rarely come into town, we were joined by many locals for the occasion.  

A fire was set, and tribesmen covered with soot and body paint, wearing large intricately- crafted masks, jumped on to the scene. To the eery wailing and the mesmerizing drumbeats of a bamboo band, the dancers in a trance-like state performed their ancient ballet in which they periodically dash through the flames and coals. To see this centuries-old rite was an unforgettable experience.

To top off this amazing day, as we were leaving port that evening we went on deck in the darkness  to view the volcano spewing fiery red  lava.

Last day in Papua-New Guinea we visited the Tsoi Islands, two small atolls separated by a narrow  channel. On the beach, we immediately heard contemporary electronic music–local musicians playing amplified instruments,  plugged into a portable generator. The “real” world was here. Soon as tribal dances were over, some of us joined in, rocking with the natives to a heavy reggae-type beat.

Birders aboard had been looking forward to Tsoi. It was a chance to see the threatened megapode birds. This turkey-like creature lays eggs and then buries them in a mound of dirt and debris. When the chicks hatch, they work their way out and are on their own. We walked up the beach to see them, and there they were, dozens milling around, making sure no harm came to their mounds and that the temperature was kept just right inside for incubating.

After the next day at sea, our agenda had us set to visit the islands of Yap for four days. This didn’t happen, though, when “red tape” strangled our plans. We had thought that we had left bureaucratic incompetence behind.