Ode to Lake ComoGrand Hotel Villa Serbelloniby Linda Mensinga The radiant waters of Lake Como surrounded by mountains has long attracted visitors who find the stunning vistas and agreeable weather irresistible. The Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, in the Lombardia region of northern Italy, could every award just by its location, but the staff, food, rooms and service are equally wonderful.
 The white-jacketed waiter rolled out a table with martini glasses partially filled with a layer of clear gelee and layer of cream-colored foam. Also on the table was a large empty bowl, a pitcher filled with a creamy liquid and a metal canister. As his assistant joined him, the waiter poured the contents of the pitcher into the bowl. She tilted the canister over the same bowl and poured as he energetically whipped the custard. Smoky clouds of liquid nitrogen wafted out and down the sides of the bowl, then mysteriously vaporized. Oohs and ahhs from the guests followed. The waiter’s arm slowed somewhat as mixture in the bowl began to thicken. A few more turns of the whisk and ecco! Ice cream-cantucci gelato-with the smoothest consistency imaginable was done. One scoop topped the apple gelee with vin santo foam already in the martini glass. Delighted guests polished off the dessert, even though it was the 7th course of a prix fixe menu.
The final course is a highlight of Executive chef Ettore Bocchia’s innovative molecular menu served in Mistral Ristorante at the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni. The dessert is Bocchia’s twist on the classic Italian tradition of cantucci, a crispy hazelnut biscotti, with vin santo, dessert wine. The tireless, free-spirited chef travels the world to dine and to cook as guest chef. He loves to experiment and learn. His idea of molecular food? “It’s made with only natural ingredients and has the clean taste of the food. I’m not exactly changing anything but it’s a new texture, a new approach. A different way to fry or make mayonnaise or make something healthier,” he said. His ice cream is a delicous example. The ice cream freezes quickly with very few ice crystals because the liquid nitrogen’s temperature is 200° C below zero. Nitrogen, which makes up about 80% of our atmosphere, is harmless but very cold. * Molecular gastronomy is a scientific approach to cooking. Bocchia met one of its most famous practitioners, Chef Heston Blumenthal of the Michelin 3-star Fat Duck in Bray, England. It was Blumenthal that introduced him to Professor Cassi. Blumenthal serves odd sounding dishes such as sardine-flavored sorbet, bacon-and-egg ice cream, and snail porridge. Bocchia, on the other hand, seeks to rethink but honor traditional Italian cuisine. He uses only the highest quality products with the addition of some new techniques, such as the liquid nitrogen. Pastas, sauces, gnocchis, fish and Italian meringues are on his menus in Mistral and in the cookbook. Chef Bocchia believes understanding the science behind food makes for better results. “There are chemical and physical changes when you work with food. When I know more I can resolve any problems and have answers for the guys in the kitchen. I know this needs fat, or acid, or it’s too dry,” he explained. “We started molecular concepts 3 years ago after studying it for a year. Some dishes we tried 10 or 12 times to find the best way.” The work has paid off. “Last year we got no complaints,” he said. Quite the opposite. The molecular menu has met with approval from guests and food critics alike. In 2005 Mistral was awarded its first Michelin star, an honor repeated in 2006.   Grand is an accurate description of the hotel, from the chandeliers, painted ceilings, mirrored walls, and columns to the individually-decorated rooms with lake or park views. Every modern amenity is here in an atmosphere of sumptuous splendor. An indoor and outdoor pool, 2 tennis courts, dock, fitness center, spa and private beach provide recreational activity. Sailing, canoeing, horseback riding, hiking and mountain biking are nearby, as is golf. Less strenuous past times include sipping a cocktail or aperitif while taking in the splendid view of mountain, lake and sky from the hotel terrace or sun bathing by the pool.
Mr. Bucher took over management of the hotel from his father in 1990 and began renovating the hotel. The number of rooms was reduced from 95 to 81, including 20 suites. Air conditioning was installed and the phone system upgraded, costly investments in such an old villa. The spa was added and Mistral opened.  “With the money he spent, you could open a new hotel,” said Giuseppe Spinelli, hotel director. Remodeling is not an easy task in Italy. City, province and central governments have to approve any changes and are never in a hurry. “They’re very protective. You can only change the inside. The façade has to stay the same,” Spinelli said. Frustrating for hotel owners, but the classic architecture is timeless and an experience not duplicated elsewhere.
The current make-up of hotel guests is about a third American, a third English and the rest a mix of German, French, Japanese and wherever else. “Our occupancy is 75 to 80%. We’re still recovering after Sept. 11. About 30 to 40% are repeat guests,” Mr. Spinelli said. Closed for 3 months during winter, the hotel’s staff fluctuates from 40 permanent to 150 during the season. Spinelli himself has worked at the hotel since 1981. He believes, “You should work in a place you like. You can’t find anywhere better.” Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni
22021 Bellagio – Como – Italy
Via Roma, 1
++ 39 031 950216
Fax ++39 031 951529
www.villaserbeloni.com
Rooms: € 315 - € 935 *If you do try making ice cream like this at home, practice some safety tips: wear gloves, goggles and don’t touch the liquid nitrogen. Check the internet for recipes. Villas and Gardens around Lake Como Lake Como has been sought after real estate for centuries. Nobility along with the wealthy arrived to build summer homes and exquisite gardens, many of which are now open to the public. }Easy and inexpensive to reach by ferry, the villas that grace the shores offer beautiful views of the lake and a glimpse into the architectural fashions and styles favored by the dukes, counts, marquises. Gardens were given equal attention and continue to gratify visitors with their range of styles, sculpture, trees and flowers. Design consideration was clearly given to lake and mountain perspectives.
 After touring the villas, visit the nearby villages to explore medieval and renaissance churches, shops, and cafes along narrow winding streets. Striking views of the lake, the surrounding hills and glacier-capped Alps beyond will delightfully fill memory and digital camera. Merano glass, silk scarves and ties, wine, olive oil, shoes and other leather goods are great ways to fill the suitcases.
RecommendedVilla Serberbelloni, Bellagio The natural beauty of the site attracted prominent settlers as far back as Roman and Gothic times. Purchased by the Sfondrati family in 1538, the location of the Villa on the wooded promontory provides breathtaking views of two arms of Lake Como. The property was bequeathed in 1788 to the Count Alessandro Serbelloni. He developed the 50 acres of park and forest, adding carriageways, hedges and reconstructing of the chapel. Visited by dignitaries such as Maximilian I, Queen Victoria and Kaiser Wilhelm, its natural beauty was extolled by French author Gustave Flaubert who wrote, “One could live and die here. The outlook seems designed as balm to the eyes-large trees run the length of the precipice and the foreground alternates between the graceful and the rugged.” Villa Melzi, Bellagio  Designed as a summer residence in neoclassic style in 1808, the elegant house lies right on the shore of Lake Como. Paths weave back and forth along the slopes around the villa lined with flower beds, Japanese maple, ginkgo and cedar trees. Camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas bloom in profusion from April to June. Water lilies drift about the pond next to a monument of Dante and Beatrice.
Villa Carlotta, Tremezzo Begun in 1690, the villa changed hands a number of times before being presented as a wedding gift by Princess Marianne of Prussia to her daughter Charlotte, hence the name. Set on 14 fertile acres, the house is now a museum with works such as the graceful Eros and Psyche marble by Tadolini, the darkly dramatic Virgil reading Aeneid’s VI book before Augustus’ court painting, and a portrait of pretty Princess Charlotte herself. Fountain, staircases and a tunnel-like citrus pergola frame the villa. The huge garden is divided into distinct sections including tree ferns, cactus, conifers, bamboo, rock garden, tropical plants and most famously–150 kinds of rhododendrons and azaleas. Villa del Balbianello, Lenno  One glimpse of this villa is to understand why it’s inspired so many painters and photographers. Situated on a promontory, a wide lawn  bordered by a decorative wall, candelabra-trimmed sycamore trees, hedges, terraces and classical sculpture flow around the villa.a While the panoramic views equal or surpass those of others, the Villla itself is a fascinating testament to its last owner, Guido Monzino. His collections of Chinese, African and pre-Colombian art, paintings done on glass, and maps are eclectic and fascinating. Another room houses his documents and mementos from his expeditions, including his furry parka, dogsled and Eskimo-carved soapstone figures.
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