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London Book Junket: Quest for the Out-of-print Rarity

By Will Snyder

Does the idea of a book buying spree and a wonderful city visit sound enticing? London offers book haunts that seem strangely out of place in a reader’s world dominated by comfortable cappuccino-and-armchair bestseller chain stores and internet browsing. No city in the world has more specialist and secondhand bookshops than London, providing a fun opportunity to browse for that hard to find, out-of-print or antique leatherbound book.

I found a guide- the Book Lovers’ London edition- explaining the many book options  in the city, and found descriptions of new and secondhand shops, both specialist and generalist, as well as book fairs, book markets and charity shops.

I decided to see for myself, avoiding the monoliths like Books etc, Borders (same ownership), WH Smith and Waterstones. In London, that still leaves hundreds of independents, stores that offer some of the most enjoyable book shopping in the universe.

I started with book markets- the name itself is an enticement to browse, for bargains, for the titles or authors that are familiar, for the leather-bound tomes of classics, for the black and yellow detective collection that one always finds at such places. I discovered that there are at least eleven book markets operating on a regular (at least once a week) basis. I chose to visit three of the best-known markets: Southbank, Portobello Road and Camdem Road. 

Southbank Book Market is a “romantic” outdoor market devoted almost exclusively to books, open every day 11am- 7pm under the Waterloo Bridge and continuing along the Thames in a wide pedestrian open space. This is where Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts fell in love in “Four Weddings and a Funeral,” but the day I visited it reminiscent only of the funeral. The morose damp weather had kept all but one vendor away, and it was rather sad to see his displayed books amidst a sea of locked wooden storage trunks. It was too depressing to even browse.

I walked across the Waterloo footbridge to Embankment tube station and headed off to Notting Hill and the famous Portobello Market. This Saturday market is mostly indoors, with scattered bookstalls accessible through gallery entrances off the Portobello Road and Westbourne Grove and down cluttered alleyways, like interconnecting rabbit warrens. Luckily I had my Book Lovers’ London guide to indicate where the booksellers were hiding.

Many of the stalls are specialized in specific types of books, from history to rugby to fine and applied arts, or just first edition novels. Most have a selection of leatherbound volumes that are sometimes purchased for their decorative value without concern for the content. The overall presentation is quite varied, ranging from dishevelled chaos to a system that would make Dewey proud. I made a few small purchases, travel books from the early 20th century. 

From Portobello I took the tube Circle line, changed at King’s Cross, and took the Northern Line to Camden Market (open Saturdays and Sundays). Again, the book market stalls were hidden in the myriad of corridors offering New Age / Punk / Afro-exotic apparel and accessories. I was lucky to have my handy guidebook indicating the target locations. Times had changed, however, and some establishments mentioned in the guide had closed down, leaving only Black Gull and Walden Books surviving. Both were excellent finds, however, with a huge selection of multi-disciplinary used books and very knowledgeable and friendly management. I bought three books, including a great find on wine walks in France.

I spent the next day at the heart of the used and specialist bookshop district, along Charing Cross road from the National Gallery to Oxford Street. Some are located along quaint pedestrian streets like Cecil Court –a book lover’s heaven- and nearby art specialist stores off of Picadilly. There are stores so filled with stock that step ladders are provided so customers can reach the upper shelves. Typically bargain tables are placed outside. Some have rare volumes locked behind glass fronted cabinets. All shops I visited had very helpful staff who usually knew if Mark Twain’s Travels in Europe was in stock - though if you are just browsing, they will leave you on your own. 

I picked up a poster and some postcards at a shop specializing in films and performing arts, and some out-of-print fiction on Cecil Court. And then I found some more travel books which I couldn’t resist.

Finally, I looked at the large number of book fairs held in London during the year, allowing booksellers who may simply have a mail order service from their homes across England to have a stall at these fairs. For example, monthly book fairs are held at the Hotel Russell in Russell Square that are free and very popular. And there are frequent annual events, like the Chelsea Book Fair in June, Performing Arts Book Fairs in April and October, the Travel and Exploration Book Fair in March and the Antiquarian Book Fair in June that attract hundreds of booksellers. Truly a book lovers paradise, a trip to London offers so much more than the mainstream chain store giants.

If you don’t live in London, the biggest problem with the surplus of book buying opportunities is the sheer weight of carrying all those good buys back home. Shipping is an alternative, especially given the reasonable cost of many second-hand books (and of course the price of rare books can be negotiated). I planned ahead, bringing a large empty suitcase that was filled upon departure. 

Information About Book Shops, Markets and Fairs:

-Book Lovers’ London, by Lesley Reader. Metro Publications 2003
-many book fairs are sponsored by the PBFA:
www.pbfa.org

-metasearch sites
www.addall.com
(uk oriented)

www.bookfinder.com
(us oriented)

www.ipl.org
The Internet Public Library

uk used, out-of-print and antiquarian websites:
www.abebooks.com
www.biblion.com
www.bibliopoly.com
www.ibooknet.com
www.haybooks.com
www.ilab-lila.com

us focused website:
www.alibris.com

Will Snyder is a free lance journalist living in southwest France.
Phone: 33 675 025 149
mail: [email protected]

Photographs by Will Snyder

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