^TM

Isolated Beauty

Vernazza, Italy

By Gail Streather

Vernazza is the second village of five villages that make up the Cinque Terre (Five Lands) on the northwestern extremity of the Italian Riviera. The Cinque Terre is unique in the way that the villages are built overhanging the sea on rocky cliffs, hidden away, in small, natural, coastal inlets. UNESCO has proclaimed the area a Natural World Heritage Park.

Pleasant, generally warm to hot weather continues from March to the end of October. High season tourist time is from June to September. If you do not like being part of the tourist trade system it is best to make the trip outside of this peak time. Even so, Vernazza is a popular retreat all year round so it is advisable that you pre-book accommodation, and recheck with the hotel again before travelling. We travelled there in April, booking our accommodation in the January, and still could only stay for two nights instead of the three we wanted.

Getting there

My recommendation for a pleasant, stress free, no parking hassles trip to Vernazza, is to catch the train from Genoa, Italy. A trip on the Italian train system is an experience in itself. At the main train station in Genoa, look for the platform for the Sestri Levante/La Spezia line. The regional train from Genoa gives the traveller an interesting journey as it winds its way southwards through a myriad of tunnels, with occasional glimpses of the sheer cliffs and enticing Mediterranean Sea. Along the rugged coastline route in the towns and villages you will see streets lined with lemon trees, the largest local produce for the region.

The villages have extremely limited access by car and provide no car parking facilities except Monterosso, the northern most of the Cinque Terre villages. The local tourist information service warns against driving to the villages. For those who really want to drive the only practical way to Vernazza is by driving to Monterosso, find a parking place, which are at a premium and then to catch the train or ferry. The regional trains generally run every hour. The ferry schedule is subject to seasonal changes; therefore it is necessary to check the schedules on arrival.

If you arrive in Vernazza by train you enter the village from the platform via the main cobbled alleyway. It is a steep descent through the village, winding its way down to open out on the Piazza at the small natural harbour. Aromas of coffee and Italian Pizzas waft out from the small restaurants, cafés and shops to immediately bombard the senses.

If you arrive in Vernazza by ferry you enter the village from the harbour. This way is a steep ascent after you have negotiated your way through the well-worn rocky outcrop, which is the ferry, dropping off point. Local fishermen use the sheltered harbour behind the man made breakwater, as it has been for centuries. The smell of fishing permeates the air for most of the day.

Vernazza

There are only three hotels in Vernazza, though it is possible to find Rooms for Rent, or Bed & Breakfasts. We stayed at the Hotel Gianni, which is located in the main market place, the “Piazza”, the only flat piece of land in the village. Typical of the hotels in the village, the Hotel Gianni reception is combined with the bar, café and restaurant. Hotel rooms are contained within separate buildings built into the rocks behind the main hotel bar/café building and are approached by climbing up narrow winding alleyway steps between the buildings. Rooms provide a comfortable double bed and en-suite facilities. There is no television, no radio, a telephone only with a reception connection, and no clock. The towns’ folk rely on the cathedral clock. The bells chime on the quarter hour from 6 am until midnight.

Open-air restaurants on the harbour wharf in Vernazza are ideal for a relaxed breakfast and soaking up the fresh sea air in the sunshine. Pizzas can be ordered throughout the day at any of the other restaurants in the village. The Hotel Gianni restaurant for an evening meal offered an extensive menu, including local delicacies using locally caught fish. Service and food were excellent.

It is extremely pleasant to sit in the sunshine on the rocks  or the wharf and just “veg out” in the quiet tranquillity of the surroundings. You can enjoy strolling around to buy locally made handicrafts and produce from the tiny shops whose wares overflow into the small streets and alleyways, displayed in a wonderful array of colours.

To admire the unique qualities of the village you need to get to the best vantage point.  Follow the signs for the “Costello”, climbing up the alleyway steps to the medieval fortifications built into the highest cliffs above the Hotel Gianni. A very small entrance fee gets you into the Costello museum and to the ruins. From the ruins and the round tower you are presented with a spectacular panorama of the village and coastline.

Places to visit

A good day out, especially if your time is limited like ours was, is to take in the ride on the ferries that run daily between all the villages of the Cinque Terre. Buying a ticket is easy from the sales people who position themselves on the wharves early in the morning. However, if you are fit and have the time, you can enjoy walking the age-old pathways that interconnect the villages.

A visit to Monterosso is must. Monterosso is the cultural and major historical centre of the region. Monterosso has a small but nicely maintained beach that is a sunbathers and swimmers delight. Markets open every morning on the sea front where you can purchase local products and or handicrafts. As the largest of the villages it also has more shops and alleyways to explore. It is the best place to buy lemon flavoured honey, lemon Grappa (very alcoholic Italian spirit drink) and other lemon based delicacies favoured in the region. The main tourist information centre for the region is located in Monterosso.

The “Via dell´Amore”, the Street of Love, a centuries old walkway cut into the rocks above the sea connects Menarola to Riomaggiore. Menarola is a12th Century medieval village perched on a rocky outcrop and dominated by the ancient church of San Lorenzo. Vineyards and olive groves are the main attractions of the fourth village Corniglia. The southern most village of the Cinque Terre is Riomaggiore, which also has many small shops where you can buy olive oil and various cheeses made from goats’ milk.

Due to their isolation the villages have remained virtually unchanged for centuries, and upon viewing them from the sea in the ferry, you can appreciate their rugged exceptional beauty.

Tips

Charges in some restaurants apply for each slice of bread removed from a breadbasket. Always ask prior to ordering at restaurants whether there is a charge for the bread or any other nibbles placed on the table. Knowing there is a cost involved means you are less likely to nibble. Charges also differ depending where you have a meal or even a drink. The cost of a simple cup of coffee can be 50% more to drink outside than inside. Always ask before purchasing.

The Cinque Terre is perfect for backpackers. It is not advisable to bring a heavy suitcase if you intend to stay. The climb up the steps to hotel rooms is exhausting enough without having to lumber a suitcase. Do not expect a porter to come running either, since there are none.

Ferries only run during daylight hours so check ferry schedules to make sure that you leave yourself time to get back to your hotel.

http://www.5terre.com

Cinque Terre Tourist Office
Piazza Colombo
Monterosso al Mare
Italy

Hotels

Alberghi Gianni
Piazza Marconi 1
19018 – Vernazza
Tel./Fax: 0187 81 2228

Alberghi Barbara
Piazza Marconi 30
19018 – Vernazza
Tel./Fax: 0187 81 2398

Alberghi Pensione Sorriso
Via Gavino 4
19018 – Vernazza
Tel.: 0187 81 2224
Fax: 0187 82 1198

Photographs by Adrian Streather
Email: author@hispeed.ch
Website: http://www.adrianstreather.com

Back to TravelLady Magazine