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Mönchhof the Astoria of German Wine
By Darryl Beeson
In the family’s possession is a historical document signed
by Pope Alexander III, which shows the Cloister Himmerod (a Cistercian abbey) as
having holdings at Ürzig as early as 1177. The monks from Himmerod were active
as winegrowers in the area and they completed the present estate building and
underground cellars before 1509. They continued their work at the Mönchhof until
1806, when the estate was purchased by the Eymael family. For 190 years this
family has carried on the fine winemaking tradition of the revered monks.
A founding member of Der Grosse Ring, the estate has won
numerous awards, including the prestigious State Honor Prize, awarded in 1971.
Even as early as 1893, this estate won medals at the Chicago World’s Fair. The
estate also provides the location for the German television series "Moselbrück."
In the tasting room of the nearly 500 year old manor house Robert Eymael Jr.
offers the Mönchhof Riesling to connoisseurs from every corner of the world. The
estate is today, as it has always been, an important part of the Mosel wine
scene. Learn more at www.cellarsinternational.com.
Mönchhof Estate Riesling Kabinett , 2003
Price $14.99
Rating 89
This fun to drink white has a srewcap, inviting the opening of a bottle. There
are spritzy flavors of apricot, green apple and bright lemon blossom in the
medium length finish.
Mönchhof “Astor” Riesling, 2003
Price $19.99
Rating 93
Marketed as “Astor” in America, this wine is known as the Mönchhof Ürziger
Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett in Germany. The sip enters with bright lemon, pear
nectar and luscious green apple in the long finish. The balance between fruit
sweetness and crisp acid is perfect.
The wines capture a memory of their great grandmother
Franziska Astor and this estate has made great progress in the US market. The
grandmother’s family also included Joh. Jacob Astor, whose grandson created the
Waldorf-Astoria hotel in New York City.
In English the word Mönchhof translates as the "Monks House
/ Court." Find out more about the wines of owner/winemaker Robert Eymael, the
king of the Ürzig and Erden area, by going to
www.germanwine.net.
Mönchhof Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese, 2003
Price $25
Rating 94
There is subtle mineral in the nose. The sip brings bright apricot nectar,
magnolia blossom, banana, mango and mineral nuance through the long finish.
Mönchhof Riesling Erdener Treppchen Auslese, 2003
Price $45 plus (tbd)
Rating 95
The sniff offer subtle dried fruit and nut nougat. The sip reveals concentrated
fruit nectar. First comes pear, then apple, and then a touch of apricot. The
flavors are wrapped brightly within resounding lemon/citrus. The wine lingers
long on the palate with tropical nuances in the finish.
“These auslese wines are not fat,’ says Robert Eymael.
“These are elegant. You can drink a bottle, not just a glass.”
Mönchhof Riesling Ürziger Würzgarten Auslese, 2003
Price $40
Rating 95
There are lean aromas of banana taffy. Then there are flavors of tropical
fruits, big floral elements and the bracingly crisp acidity. The flavors go on
and on.
Mönchhof Riesling Erden Prälat Auslese, 2003
Price $50
Rating 96
This wine’s label is different than the usual sleek and white Mönchhof label. It
is Gothic, bright yellow with a white robed monk, based upon a hundred year old
label. Big concentrations of candied apple, dried cherry, candied mango, banana,
lavender, lemon cream pie, citrus blossom and mineral explode within the exotic,
long finish.
Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Riesling Ürziger Würzgarten TBA,
2003
Price $675 (375ml)
Rating 97
This estate is owned and operated by Robert Eymael, well known for his Mönchhof
wines. TBA stands for trockenbeerenauslese, having more sugar sweetness than
even an eiswein. These can be nectar of the Gods.
The nose boasts grand concentrations of apricot nectar,
candied mango, banana, a field full of flowers, and secure mineral down below.
The sip is like a bite of a tropical fruit pudding with cherry on top. Look for
mango, banana, vanilla wafers, brown spice, lemon drops candy, rose petals, and
the signature mineral base.
Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine
values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion
on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or
secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee
sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for
numerous publications.
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