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Wales: Frozen Times Of The Land!

By D.K. Bhaskar

It was five degrees centigrade outside as the Virgin train service from Reading reached Birmingham New Street station. A rather courteous voice announced an apologetic delay of my train. I wandered on the platform trying to keep myself warm with a piping hot cappuccino in my hands. It was interesting to note the different moods of my fellow passengers. “Damn it!”, cursed a  young man while a few others were trying to keep up with the day’s newspaper, of course always on the look out for any new announcements. Not that any train would arrive early, but restlessness of all human beings for unplanned delays was becoming apparent as we waited.

With my coffee all gone, the chill was still piercing through my thick jackets. Nearby a young couple was huddling close to each other as if trying to overpower the bitter weather. I walked across the platform quite a number of times and finally my train approached. The loudspeaker announced the arrival of the 12:45 Central Train service to Edinburgh; calling at ….I boarded the train and settled in for an hour’s uneventful journey to Crewe. Idwal was waiting outside the station for me in his brand new Toyota. We dumped my luggage on the back seat and I made sure of resting my camera bag in front of me.

Many times across the world during my travels, I wonder whether my name is really so difficult to pronounce! I get to hear many mutated versions of my name such as Bhasckaar, Bascaa, Bhascaa….. Strangely, almost none of them get it right, much to my dismay! I spell it out and we move on the country roads, while Idwal fills me in with interesting information about the route we are driving through.  It was time to eat and we decided to stop at Durham Heifer public house, a famous drive-in pub and restaurant. The name is nostalgic for I had stayed for sometime in County Durham, famous for its World heritage castle and cathedral. I settled for a hot onion soup and a sumptuous vegetable platter after which I was energetic enough to tackle anything.

Our journey continued across Welsh countryside was a treat to the eyes.   Every inch of the undulating moors and meadows refreshed our minds. The breathtaking hues of autumn adorned the whole landscape. Little birds blended their colours superbly with their surroundings.  While the soft light of November was caressing the lichen- filled walls along the route; a few trees were beginning to turn naked which would very soon transform the colourful countryside rather stark and barren. Needless to say, when you travel anywhere in the British Isles, you will come across some superb historical landmarks so unique to that region.

The very first landmark we witnessed the Poncysyllte aqueduct built in 1795 – 1805 over the valley of River Dee.  The aqueduct is an imposing piece of Georgian engineering, with the canal soaring up to 126 feet above the river in cast iron troughs, mounted on 19 masonry arches. The aqueduct is 1007 feet long, 11 feet wide, and 5 feet 3 inches deep. The mortar used in the construction comprised of lime, water and Ox blood. Built by Thomas Telford, the bridge was primarily meant for transportation. With the advent of the railways and the motorised road transport system the bridge became redundant. A world heritage status awaits this architectural marvel of over 200 years, which celebrated its bi-centenary not so long ago.

Our next destination was the historic town of Llangollen nestling on the banks of the River Dee at the foot of the Berwyn Mountains. A beautiful monument in the form of a guitar attracted my attention and to my delight the place happened to host the world-renowned International Musical Eisteddfod, a world renowned music festival held in the town each July. Singers and dancers from around the world perform both in the streets and in an International Pavilion. A town of barely three thousand is flocked by thousands of visitors during the music festival.

On a hill to the south east of the town are the ruins of an ancient fortress "Castell Dinas Bran"or Dinas Bran Castle, a ruin with many historic and romantic associations, and commanding a splendid view of the surrounding countryside. Legend has it that Prince Dinas who came to reside in it built it. The castle is also called the Grail castle because of its plausible association with the Holy Grail.

The history of Llangollen spans three thousand years, through the Iron Age and the original Dinas Bran Castle to the legend of King Arthur in the Dark Ages. An old and historic ruins of the Abbey founded in the 13th century stands testimony to this. The evocative ruins of Valle Crucis Abbey (Valley of the Cross) lie in green fields beneath Llangollen's steep sided mountains. In medieval times, this was a remote spot deliberately sought out by the austere Cistercian monks. After years of glory the abbey was finally dissolved in 1537. A museum houses an exhibition of evidences of the monastic life at Valle Crusis.

As we moved into the town, ruins of a castle above the hill, was quite attractive. The light was going down and there wasn’t much time for our exploration. Before long, we had to be safely back in the warmth of our rooms. It seemed like a fine idea to have tea and what better place than to enjoy it at Old Mill Restaurant. This 700-year-old piece of architecture was at one time used as a flourmill. The building as it now stands was re-built in 1786 with three pairs of grinding stones, and continued as a working mill up until 1974. The first thing that struck me as I walked through the door was the great jumble of old beams all around, with the water wheel turning slowly behind the bar. I enjoyed the noise of the roaring river and the ambience of this romantic hide out, while a big pot of typical English coffee with tea crackers were served. It was as refreshing as the place itself.

As we drove towards our hotel, I could not but wonder whether the people that lived in this heaven of a place ever realize how lucky they were! The awe-inspiring beauty of the place still haunts me from time to time. W reached the Royal Oak at Betws y Coed overlooking the river, woods, walkways and the magic of colors. A day’s travel in this place made me feel so relaxed and fresh. I felt lucky to have had an opportunity to visit this heaven.

How to reach:

By Car
Travelling to North Wales has never been easier - the A55 coastal Expressway links the region with the historic City of Chester, the North West of England and the motorway network - M56, M6, M53 and M54. For a leisurely drive and a more scenic route, follow the A5 from Chirk.

From Crewe, Manchester and Warrington, Arriva Trains Wales services www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk, operate to Llandudno and Holyhead, and also on the Conwy Valley Line, providing a scenic journey between Llandudno, Betws-y-Coed

For more details: Contact;

Wales Tourist Board
visitbritain@visitbritain.org
www.visitbritain.org
Brunel House
2 Fitzalan Road
Cardiff
CF24 0UY
Tel: 029 2049 9909

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