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TOKYO WINE-BARS

Six Little Secrets

By Ned Goodwin

Amid the barrage of Tokyo’s clatter and incandescent neon there is a true need for wine bars. Those that have thrived here have done so by acclimatizing themselves to the local culture and to the Japanese love of convivial drinking. Many are tiny boîtes by necessity, yet their wine lists are almost as good as any in London or New York, and arguably superior to anywhere else in Asia.

Astute to the whims of fashion, the Japanese nurtured what they called a “wine boom” in the mid ’90s, when TV shows about wine and even manga with sommelier heroes were commonplace. This era saw the emergence of a plethora of wine bars, and enthusiasts everywhere underwent formal wine training. I’m bemused to note that there are more trained sommeliers in Japan than anywhere else in the world except Italy.

Rare collectibles on delicatessen shelves are a legacy of the boom and of the faded aspirations of many retailers. In light of the fact that Japanese duty on wine is solely based on the physical quantity imported, however, these rarities and other esoteric wines are bargains for the savvy buyer. Unlike other Asian countries such as Thailand, where a rugged 65 percent duty means that even commercial wine is only for the wealthy, Japan is a wine lover’s paradise.

Tradition and its idiosyncrasies mingle in Tokyo wine bars: Just like they do with beer in an izakaya, Japanese will constantly refill your wine glass, and you are expected to do likewise for them. Beware.

Shonzui

That there is more to Roppongi than meets the eye is indicated by the fact that three of the city’s best wine bars are located here, on the same lane. Shonzui is tucked above a stairwell, and specializes in biologique French wines, which are made without sulfur dioxide. Viticultural terrorism to the squeaky clean winemaker from the New World, these wines can be inherently pure and delicious. Original ’60s rock prints and paraphernalia are balanced with generous portions of charcuterie and cheeses until late. A wine joint with soul.

7-10-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3405-7478. Open daily 6pm-2am. Nearest stn: Roppongi.

Dance

Off the same lane as Shonzui, Dance (left) is easily recognizable by the Australian flag that adorns the exterior and the eponymous Matisse painting along the wall. Dance’s patron, Masa Yamazaki, fell in love with Antipodean juice because Californian wine, his former passion, became “dull and expensive,” as he puts it. Masa imports small batches of Aussie wine directly and many, like Wendouree and Joseph Sparkling Shiraz, are more reasonably priced than in Australia.

7-8-4 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel. 03-3478-7177. Open Mon-Thu 6pm-midnight. Fri-Sat 6pm-2am. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.wine-cafe-dance.co.jp

L-Vino

Also on the same lane is L-Vino. Owner Jiro Kinsoshita is an ambassador for Australian wine in a city that more readily embraces bottles from France and Italy. L-Vino offers a menu redolent with fine Australian produce and older, “hand-smuggled” vintages from Jiro’s carry-on luggage.

7-7-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5771-2439. Open Mon-Fri 6pm-1am, Sat 6pm-midnight. Nearest stn: Roppongi.

Legato

I profess interest in Legato, as I helped design its wine list. Located high above the hub of youth culture in Shibuya, Legato has a contemporary menu and an all-encompassing selection of ¥3,990 wine. Moreover, any of them can be tasted by the glass, and the fact that the wines are classified according to flavor-profile rather than country or grape surely demands attention.

15F E-Space Tower, 3-6 Maruyama-cho, Shibuya-ku. Tel. 03-5784-2121. Open daily 11.30-2am. Nearest stn: Shibuya.

Vinpicoeur

Upon entering this tiny restaurant in Ginza, one is confronted by the odd image of a gaffed pig behind Perspex, which, I imagine, is supposed to hint at the cooking—mostly barbecue-type fare including yakitori of Poulet de Bresse, imported from France. The wine list is one of the greatest in Tokyo, if not the world (despite the amusing spelling mistakes).

4-3-4 Ginza, Chuo-ku. Tel: 03-3567-4122. Open Mon-Fri 5:30-11:30pm, Sat and hols 4-11pm. Nearest stn: Ginza. www.auxamis.com

Vin Ciero

The view of a parking lot belies Vin Ciero’s greatness, for the food is superb, with a three-course menu for about ¥3,500, often with marginally legal Italian hams and sausages rounding out pastas, game and fish. The wine list is on par with the passionate chef, versed in southern Italy and the good life.

1F Noa Bldg, 5-1-13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel. 03-5367-1967. Open daily 6pm-1.30am. Nearest stn: Shinjuku-Gyoenmae.

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