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Exploring the Temples of Orissa

By Donna Yuen

Changing pace from the busy city life and endless screaming horns of other Indian cities, the relative peace of Bhubaneswar is welcoming.  Bhubaneswar, the city of temples, exudes peace and spirituality. Once a city of over a 1000 temples, many have been destroyed by invading groups and ravaged by natural disasters, still the remnants of history endure. This capital of Orissa, is the ideal place to see how Indian temple architecture grew and developed. Most Orissan temples consist of a temple sanctuary (deul), front porch, dancing hall, and a hall of offerings. The temples throughout Bhubaneswar show the progression from the simple, to the grandest temple in all of Orissa, the Sun Temple in Konark. Also known as the Black Pagoda, the structure is an illustration of when Indian architecture had reached its pinnacle.

Protected by UNESCO as a World Heritage site, it was constructed in the mid-13th century. The main temple, which once stood at a height of 40 meters, has collapsed. Still, the breathtaking remains speak of its grandeur. The entire structure is carved into the form of a chariot. Composed of 24 intricately carved wheels, the chariot is pulled by 7 majestic horses and guarded by two lions. Depicted as the Sun God Surya’s chariot, Surya is represented among the intricate carvings in 3 areas. The images of the Sun God are strategically placed to capture the light of dawn, noon, and sunset.

Every December, as the sun sets and darkness takes hold, there is a celebration of light, music and dance on the temple grounds. The Konark Festival features the traditional Odissi dance. Dating back for centuries, the classical dance was once performed in the temples by trained artists, at one time even the noble were accomplished Odissi dancers. Now, young hopeful women don traditional costumes and continue their unique art form. Heavily laden with silver, from anklets, to elaborate necklaces and bracelets, they stomp and tap their bare feet to a uniquely infectious rhythm.

As I climb the steps entering the dance hall, I can imagine it filled with dancers in colourful dress, now only carvings of Odissi dance poses adorn the stone walls. A closer examination of the carvings reveals the stories and lifestyles of Orissan life. Music, dance, and a strong respect for animals are clearly depicted in the carvings. The carvings also contain an erotic theme, which may reflect the influence of the Kama Sutra during that time period. Ironically some believe that a visit to the temple will remove sin or cure a person of disease. The temple is believed by some to have curative powers due to the legend which states that Samba the son of Krishna was suffering from Leprosy and after 12 years was cured by the Sun God Surya.

Your visit to the temple may be to watch the graceful beauty of dancers in the evening light, or to purify oneself, despite the reason; one cannot help but stand in awe of the astounding structure.

Other must see temples and festivals in Orissa:
Temples
Lingaraj Mandir (Bhubaneswar) at 54 meters high, it towers over the 50 smaller temples that surround it.
Mukteswar Mandir (Bhubaneswar) an ornate temple combining the Jain, Buddhist and Hindu styles.
Jagannath Mandir (Puri) a central element of the city, the temple is a gathering place for both prayer and food with a kitchen employing hundreds of cooks.

Festivals:
Magha Mela (Konark) Occurring in Jan/Feb the Sun Festival involves masse bathing and then worship at the Sun temple.
Rath Yatra (Puri) Occurring in Jun/Jul, idols of Lord Jagannath are carried in massive chariots from the Jagannath Temple to Gundicha Mandir
Ashokastami (Bhubaneswar) Occurring in April/May, an idol of Lord Lingaraj undergoes ritual bathing.
Beach Festival (Puri) Occurring in November, the beach festival is a celebration of music, dance and art on the beach.

For more information visit www.incredibleindia.org
Photos by Donna Yuen

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