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Exploring the Temples of Orissa
By Donna Yuen
Changing pace from the busy city life
and endless screaming horns of other Indian cities, the relative peace of
Bhubaneswar is welcoming. Bhubaneswar, the city of temples, exudes peace and
spirituality. Once a city of over a 1000 temples, many have been destroyed by
invading groups and ravaged by natural disasters, still the remnants of history
endure. This capital of Orissa, is the ideal place to see how Indian temple
architecture grew and developed. Most Orissan temples consist of a temple
sanctuary (deul), front porch, dancing hall, and a hall of offerings. The
temples throughout Bhubaneswar show the progression from the simple, to the
grandest temple in all of Orissa, the Sun Temple in Konark. Also known as the
Black Pagoda, the structure is an illustration of when Indian architecture had
reached its pinnacle.
Protected
by UNESCO as a World Heritage site, it was constructed in the mid-13th century.
The main temple, which once stood at a height of 40 meters, has collapsed.
Still, the breathtaking remains speak of its grandeur. The entire structure is
carved into the form of a chariot. Composed of 24 intricately carved wheels, the
chariot is pulled by 7 majestic horses and guarded by two lions.
Depicted as the Sun God Surya’s chariot, Surya is represented among the
intricate carvings in 3 areas. The images of the Sun God are strategically
placed to capture the light of dawn, noon, and sunset.
Every December, as the sun sets and
darkness takes hold, there is a celebration of light, music and dance on the
temple grounds. The Konark Festival features the traditional Odissi dance.
Dating back for centuries, the classical dance was once performed in the temples
by trained artists, at one time even the noble were accomplished Odissi dancers.
Now, young hopeful women don traditional costumes and continue their unique art
form. Heavily laden with silver, from anklets, to elaborate necklaces and
bracelets, they stomp and tap their bare feet to a uniquely infectious
rhythm.
As I climb the steps entering the dance
hall, I can imagine it filled with dancers in colourful dress, now only carvings
of Odissi dance poses adorn the stone walls. A closer examination of the
carvings reveals the stories and lifestyles of Orissan life. Music, dance, and a
strong respect for animals are clearly depicted in the carvings. The carvings also contain an erotic theme, which may reflect the
influence of the Kama Sutra during that time period. Ironically some believe
that a visit to the temple will remove sin or cure a person of disease. The
temple is believed by some to have curative powers due to the legend which
states that Samba the son of Krishna was suffering from Leprosy and after 12
years was cured by the Sun God Surya.
Your visit to the temple may be to watch
the graceful beauty of dancers in the evening light, or to purify oneself,
despite the reason; one cannot help but stand in awe of the astounding
structure.
Other must see temples and festivals
in Orissa:
Temples
Lingaraj Mandir (Bhubaneswar) at 54 meters high, it towers over the 50
smaller temples that surround it.
Mukteswar Mandir (Bhubaneswar) an ornate temple combining the Jain,
Buddhist and Hindu styles.
Jagannath Mandir (Puri) a central element of the city, the temple is a
gathering place for both prayer and food with a kitchen employing hundreds of
cooks.
Festivals:
Magha Mela (Konark) Occurring in Jan/Feb the Sun Festival involves masse
bathing and then worship at the Sun temple.
Rath Yatra (Puri) Occurring in Jun/Jul, idols of Lord Jagannath are
carried in massive chariots from the Jagannath Temple to Gundicha Mandir
Ashokastami (Bhubaneswar) Occurring in April/May, an idol of Lord
Lingaraj undergoes ritual bathing.
Beach Festival (Puri) Occurring in November, the beach festival is a
celebration of music, dance and art on the beach.
For more information visit
www.incredibleindia.org
Photos by Donna Yuen
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