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Joel Chusid's Insider Tips for Buenos Aires ShoppingBy Joel Chusid
As a visitor, if you do end up making some large purchases (70 pesos or more in one store), you can get the tax (maybe 15%) back at the airport (it’s credited to your credit card, or they’ll give you cash back in pesos or dollars at the airport) provided you get the forms from the merchant. Some may not want to do this if they give you a big discount at the time of the sales, as they are often refunding the tax to you “in advance” so they say, and it’s a better deal for you anyway. They’re just not reporting the sale. Major stores will not do this, but will do the tax refund paperwork. There is a minimum amount to qualify for this, and follow the instructions carefully. Just be sure to get the papers stamped at Customs at the airport. Strangely enough, you do not have to show that you are taking the goods abroad. (Special advice: The line at Ezeiza Airport to stamp the papers is just after you enter the security/immigration area upstairs and it can be long at peak periods. Instead, after you check in, pay your departure tax, and then go to a few steps away to the uncrowded arrivals area. You’ll find the customs window just to the right of where passengers exit from customs; have your papers stamped there, and it will save you the wait upstairs. There is never a line downstairs.)
Alto Palermo and Paseo Alcorta are large shopping malls similar to those found in the states, but much more interesting are Galerias Pacificos (Florida and Viamonte) downtown, which is made from an old building with exquisite ceilings and the elegant Patio Bullrich (Posadas and Montevideo) which is constructed in a former slaughterhouse) near the Four Seasons Hotel. Both have very upscale shops and cinemas and some souvenir and leather stores. For less expensive souvenir tourist-type items, the large gift shop that the escorted tour stops at in La Boca is one of the best selections anywhere. At Florida 844, there are dozens of shops with T-shirts and inexpensive, but good quality souvenirs. There are also plenty of other interesting shops in this area. All the shopping centers have excellent food courts. In Once, shopping center El Abasto has the only kosher McDonalds in the world, to my knowledge, although it’s not worth a trip for tourists on its own.
Avenida Santa Fe is a popular shopping street, and it goes on for blocks and blocks until it changes names in Belgrano to Cabildo. Avenida Las Heras has plenty of stores as well. Libertador, the amazingly wide street a block and a half from my apartment, is more known for car showrooms and elegant apartments, as opposed to shopping. Florida, the pedestrian thoroughfare, specifically between Plaza San Martin to just beyond Viamonte, is “ground zero” for tourists. (The rest of Florida is not as interesting, and the cross pedestrian street Lavalle can be skipped, unless you’re really looking for cheap stuff, but also not high quality.) There’s a heavy emphasis on gaucho gear, which means silver objects, belts and buckles, items with pampa fabric touches, and lots of leather. You can find vests, jackets, gloves, bags, belts, wallets, shoes, jackets in all kinds of leather and suede and the famous and elegant carpincho (capybara in English), rarely found in the U.S. and a bargain here, and all kinds of souvenirs. (see note on Florida 844 above.) A new Falabella, a Chilean department store, has just opened two large stores at the other end of Florida (the low numbers), one for home goods, the other for clothing. They are nice stores, in renovated historical buildings, and the only department stores within the city, but they don’t have too much for tourists. Still, I believe this will invigorate that end of Florida.
CD’s are also a bargain, averaging around $7-$9 a piece, even for U.S. and international artists. There are compilations of various well known singers and types of music for $3-$4. Tango music is a great souvenir, and there are all kinds. Try Musimundo, Tower Records, or Atheneo (all are on Florida and have other branches) or on Santa Fe near Callao. The Atheneo branch there is worth a look, as it was built in an old theatre. Not to be missed is the famous Sunday antiques market in San Telmo at Plaza Dorrego. Take a taxi there. Prices on goods can be high, but that’s relative. You’ll enjoy the experience, including living statues, street players, and tango dancing in the street, plus you can bargain a bit here, but not as if you were in a Moroccan souk. If you can get 10-20% off on something, you’ll be lucky. Watch for old colored glass “sifones” or seltzer bottles, which I have seen for $95 in U.S. furniture design stores. Of late, they’ve been about $15. If you’re really into serious antiquing and somewhat adventurous (and hopefully can manage some Spanish), head for the “real” flea market, quite untouristy, on Avenida Dorrego (not to be confused with Plaza Dorrego) in Palermo Viejo, but be prepared to dig through stacks and mounds, sometimes in poor light, and don’t wander too much beyond the place on your own. The Feria at Mataderos is fun on Sundays (Saturday nights in summer), and there are far fewer tourists. It has a wide selection of gaucho goods, lower prices, some live gaucho entertainment, and a few simple restaurants where you can get steaks and choripan, the Argentine equivalent of a hot dog (actually sausage) on a bun (a hard roll). Mataderos is a little far from downtown, but not more than about 30 minutes in a taxi from downtown) and some locals may raise an eyebrow that you want to go there, but it is well worth it. If you can go with a local, it can be helpful, as the surrounding neighborhood can be a little dicey, especially at night, but don’t let that keep you away! Palermo Viejo is a great place for strolling and checking out the interesting stores with apparel, paper goods, furniture, housewares, books, and gift items. This is where many local designers have their shops, and sell their goods at bargain prices. Honduras Street is probably the center of the action. Beware that not all are open on Sundays, although on Sunday there is a crafts market in Plaza Serrano, surrounded by cafes, bars and shops. There are always new stores, restaurants, cafes, and even B&B’s popping up. Traffic is generally light in this area, and it is a far cry from the crowded streets downtown. In this area, one of my favorite places is an outlet for the Argentine Cardone chain, which is sort of a gaucho meets preppy culture, and it’s for both men and women. You can find cotton shirts, trousers (including bombachas de campo, loose fitting but very comfortable pants for horseback riding or casual wear), belts, leather goods, shoes, and other items, often with the little cactus logo. Prices at the outlet are usually very good, but you’ll find Cardon shops elsewhere in Buenos Aires with the full range of items. They are a well recognized brand, extended even to fragrances, and right there in Palermo Viejo they are building a Cardon branded condominium tower! Ezeiza Airport is your last chance to stock up on Argentine goods. The newly expanded duty free area beyond immigration lets you sneak in a few more items over and above your carry-on limit. You can pick up Havanna alfajores (traditional Argentine cookies with dulce de leche, chocolate, or fruit fillings), wines (at surprisingly good prices, especially for my favorite, Luigi Bosca), although prices on leather goods and other souvenirs tend to be higher. There is also a wide range of international fragrances, alcohol, and tobacco, although bargains can be questionable. It might be wise to allow room in your bags for purchases when packing for your trip. Most airlines now restrict you to 50 pounds per bag, maximum of two. Above that, you’re at their mercy for excess weight, size, or pieces. It may be worth the expense to pay the charge if you’ve been lucky with bargains. If so, buying an extra suitcase or leather satchel is not expensive at all in Argentina. I do not recommend shipping purchases home, except maybe by DHL or Fedex on your own. Whether serious shopping or just window shopping, doing it in Buenos Aires can actually be a pleasant experience, although some places can be hectic at busy times, especially downtown on weekdays. Shopkeepers are usually friendly, speak some English or have someone nearby who can, and are very accommodating. It is not unusual to be presented with a small gift if you’ve made some purchases, or, even if you haven’t, a coffee or a beverage. Happy shopping! Photos courtesy of Dan Chusid |
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Buenos Aires is full of bargains right now, particularly
for Argentine-made goods. Anything from breakfast cereal to apparel, and
particularly for things like wines and leather items will be far less expensive
if produced in the country. You won’t find bargains on most imported items.
Since the 2001 “crisis,” Argentines have found the way to grow or manufacture
items that historically were imported in those heady days when the dollar and
peso were at par.
In my opinion, the three top items for tourists to consider
bringing home are leather and silver goods, wine, and music. For a unique
souvenir, however, buy a mate (pronounced mah-tay), the small container used for
drinking mate, a grasslike herb. You’ll see people drinking this everywhere, as
it supposedly had medicinal (and laxative) properties. They are usually made
from gourds, can be simple or elaborately trimmed with silver or with unusual
stands, in various colors, and they all come with the bombilla, the unique
straw, also made from steel or even silver. You’ll find them in various places,
from crafts markets and souvenir stores to the corner kiosk. At Recoleta or the
other arts and crafts markets, you can even get them engraved with your name,
for just a few dollars. Although much harder to find (they’re easier to get in
Uruguay), a matero that is used for carrying the mate and a thermos of hot
water, is a great gift and can be used for books or an unusual shoulder bag.
For high quality souvenirs, talabarterias sell all kinds of
leather goods, and often silver items as well. Picture frames and other objects
are beautiful and unique. Look for items with the pampa, the typical gaucho
design. It ends up appearing on all sorts of things from furniture to clothing.
There are plenty of good stores downtown and a few in the other neighborhoods.
One of the best is Arandú (Ayacucho and Alvear, across from the Alvear Palace
Hotel) and the store to its right, and El Nochero (in Patio Bullrich). Buenos
Aires Design in Recoleta (next to the famous cemetery) is an elegant mall of
furniture and housewares stores, at Pueyrredon and Libertador. An arts and
crafts market also takes place in the adjacent Plaza Francia every weekend.
There are some new stores on the upper level of Buenos Aires Design, near the
Hard Rock Café.
You can try and bargain if you make a large purchase in
some of the smaller stores or in a flea market. Casa Lopez is good value,
elegant, but not cheap as it tends to adjust prices to the peso/dollar exchange
rate. “Maybe”, tel 4312-4781, just down the street on Florida, is a good place
for jackets, bags, etc. Ask for Carol (from New York) or Lilas (from Israel) who
both speak excellent English. Gustavo if the owner, and is very accommodating,
but it is a busy place. They know “Joel.” El Boyero is also good for gaucho
items and leather. Try and pay for goods in cash, and ask for a discount. It can
be as much as 20% whereas paying with credit cards may result in a higher price.
Expect to be solicited in this area to buy leather jackets, to exchange pesos
(by arbolitos as they are called, meaning “little trees”), and by panhandlers.
Speaking of money, don’t exchange dollars in the street with the arbolitos,
whatever you do! Speaking of money exchange, use any of the casa de cambios or
banks. Never, ever, use the kiosks at Ezeiza Airport in the baggage claim or
arrival hall, as their rate is horrendous. Instead use the bank right outside
customs. Another word of caution is that most prices are quoted in pesos, but
use the dollar sign symbol ($). Do not be tricked into paying in dollars!
Exceptions to this are international air or sea tickets, automobiles, most real
estate, and sometimes, art.