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Inama re-defines Soave

By Darryl Beeson

"Soave, from the Veneto in North East Italy, has a reputation for producing rather neutral, boring white wines," observes wine guru Robert Parker. "It's partly deserved. Pop into your local supermarket and buy their cheapest Soave. It will be a commodity wine, with some fresh acidity but rather neutral flavors...But to dismiss all Soave as dull and uninteresting would be doing a great disservice to those producers who are doing good work here.

What this tasting showed is that the Garganega grape, often with some help from a bit of Chardonnay or some new French oak, can make profound white wines packed full of flavor and interest." Consider the wines from Azienda Agricola Inama.

The Inama estate was founded in 1960 by Giuseppe Inama, who owned 30 hectar of vines in the heart of the Soave Classico region, predominantly on the highly regarded Monte Foscarino. He handed the reigns to his son in 1992, who has continued to tend to the family's vines.

Stefano Inama contends that "Most people in the world want predictable wines. I want to make wines that are bloody different, and wines that are different from year to year." He has taken the region's classic varietal of Garganega, along with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, catching the attention of the world's top wine producers. Learn more at www.inamaaziendaagricola.it.

Inama Soave Classico, Verona 2004
Price $12.99
Rating 91
Made from hand-harvested pergola-trained Garganega grapes, fermented and aged in stainless steel, this crisp white wine has a distinctive herbal edge to the nose. The sip is rounded and rich with lots of flavor and a mineral edge. Enjoy this concentrated white wine with breaded and fried squid, pasta in light or white sauces, or with hard Italian cheese shaved thin.

Inama Soave Classico, Verona 2003
Price $13.99
Rating 91
The grape blend is primarily Gargenaga and Trebbiano. The flavors are two diverse opposites: bright citrus countered by resounding earthiness.  Overall, the wine is complex and pleasing.

Inama "Foscarino" Soave Superiore, Veneto 2003
Price $19
Rating 93
Made from a selection of old vines grown at the top of Monte Foscarino, pergola trained Garganega grapes, this white wine is remarkable forward with an herbacious nose, being nutty and complex. The sip is concentrated and rich, again with a spicy, herbal nuance.

Inama "Vigneto du Lot" Soave Superiore, Veneto 2002
Price $24
Rating 94
This assertive white wine is from an experimental vineyard planted in 1993.  Instead of pergola training, the Garganega grapes are grown in a permanent cordon and are spur pruned. After fermentation, 50% new Allier oak is used.  Take a sip and experience the strikingly rich herbal, toasty and nutty nose.

Inama "Vulcia Fume" Sauvignon Blanc, Veneto
Price $14
Rating 92
Stefano Inama is one of the most important vintners of Veneto, with ownership of a number of prime vineyard sites, including a section of vines in Monte Foscarino, the best of Soave's top cru. Sauvignon Blanc, however, is one of his specialities. The nose is ripe and rich, with some evidence of yeasty "lees" contact. There's a tropical character to the fruit, perhaps mango, with a touch of rich cream. Bright elements with firm grip and fresh, juicy, citrus-like acidity extend through the good length.

Serve these brilliant white wines with grilled seafood, delicate pasta in lemon and olive oil, veal cutlets or with three cheese pizza. Serve them with either soft goat cheese or with hard Romano, or especially Asiago thinly sliced.

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Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine finds. Says writer Roy Blount, Jr., "Wine is tough, but I know Darryl can do it."

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