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Tormaresca brings Puglia to your door

By Darryl Beeson

Puglia (Apulia as it is called in English) is Italy's boot heel, located in the southeastern most region of the nation. It has been conquered by legions of foreign rulers, most of whom were careful to live elsewhere. The notable exception was Frederick II (1194-1250), the last Emperor of the Hohenstaufen line. An enlightened man, he built many castles which still grace the region, along with acres and acres of vineyards and olive groves. Puglia (pronounced "pool-ya") produces one-tenth of the wine consumed in Europe. Its olive oil is renowned. Traditionally both of these commodities were mainly used to dilute, or improve, their counterparts to the north. But lately the local food artisans have begun creating some important oils and vintages. These complement the fresh seafood and vegetables that are the staples of "la tavola pugliese."

In ancient times only the northern part of the region was called Apulia. The southern peninsula was known as Calabria, a name later used to designate the toe of the Italian "boot." The region was settled by several Italic peoples and by the colonial Greeks before it was conquered in the 4th century B.C. by the Romans. After the fall of Rome, Apulia was held successively by the Goths, the Lombards, and the Byzantines. In the 11th century, it was conquered by the Normans; Robert Guiscard set up the duchy of Apulia in 1059. After the Norman conquest of Sicily in the late 11th century, Palermo replaced Melfi (just west of present day Apulia) as the center of Norman power, and Apulia became a mere province, first of the Kingdom of Sicily, then of the Kingdom of Naples. The wines are much less confusing.

Tormaresca, the wine, is named after the sea-facing towers built as lookout posts during Italy's feudal history. Piero Antinori, president of Marchesi Antinori, founded Tormaresca when he purchased the extensive property and vineyards. 26 generations of the Antinori family have produced excellent wine. 620 years allows for plenty of practice.

Tormaresca Chardonnay, Puglia 2004
Price $10                    
Rating 91
The nose is complex with menthol and mint, then butter hints and tree fruit like pear and crisp apple. This refreshing white wine invites various food combinations. Consider grilled seafood, pasta with scallops in arich cream sauce, or with freshly grilled vegetables. Also consider Gargonzola stuffed chicken breast, served with tabouleh. Include a cream sauce with mushrooms. This wine is ranked as an I.G.T.

Tormaresca Rosso Negroamaro-Cabernet Sauvignion, Puglia 2003
Price $10                    
Rating 91
The nose is earthy with tree bark and fresh herbs. The sip is bitter with complex layers of fruit. The balance of the two is most pleasing. Dark fruit and mineral appear in the good finish. There is added a relatively small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) to the Negroamaro for the basic everyday wine of the house, with attractive berry fruit, zesty Mediterranean herbs, and anise  in the aromas along with interesting flavors throughout the good length. The fruit is very present.

Serve this rustic red with pasta, especially tortellini. Include mushrooms, either in the sauce, or with the pasta's stuffing. This wine is ranked as an I.G.T.

Tormaresca Torcicoda Primitivo, Puglia 2003
Price $21                    
Rating 94
The aromas are a wide spectrum of red fruiy and exotic spice. The sip is chewy raspberry jam and complex mineral. There are bright flavors of cherry and earthy compost. The tannins are balanced, and the fruit elements are present.

Big, blackberry fruits join with hints of licorice and cedar, followed by an enduring, velvety finish. As with so many Italian reds, it shows a slight edge of tannin and acidity, but they are well-integrated and help the wine match beautifully with rich winter fare. This wine is ranked as an I.G.T.

Tormaresca Bocca di Lupo Aglianico, Puglia 2002
Price $28                    
Rating 93
The nose is earthy and complex. The fruits are well evolved and complex, as well. The sip reveals well balanced tannins and ripe, earthy fruit. The exact blend is 90% Aglianico and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Bocca di Lupo is a wine which demonstrates that the Aglianico grown in the northwestern part of Puglia, just a short distance from the Basilicata, can be world-class.

Serve this mineral driven red with seared veal steak, wrapped in spinach leaf, or with roasted chicken in fresh herbs. Also consider lusty sausage with hard Italian cheese. This wine is ranked as an D.O.C.

Tormaresca Maime Negromaro, Puhlia 2002
Price $28                    
Rating 94
The nose is earthy with spice. Spiciness is typical of the grape. The sip expands with prune and black fruit. The long finish ends with menthol and mineral.

Serve this robust red with thick beef steak, roasted vegetables and hearty risotto. Serve, also, with beef sausage and hard Italian cheese. Also consider wild game in a tomato sauce poured over al dente pasta. This wine is ranked as an I.G.T.

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Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine finds. Says writer Roy Blount, Jr., “Wine is tough, but I know Darryl can do it.

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