Cruising the BVI’s In Classic Style
On Board The Arabella
By Jeff Sylva
As the captain gave orders to weigh anchor, we ordered some
tropical drinks and slipped into the on-deck hot tub. Cruising out of White Bay
on Jost Van Dyke in the British Virgin Islands for the short jaunt to Great
Harbor and our evening anchorage, we basked in the glory of sailing on our
160-foot yacht as the palm trees lining the beach began to fade into the
distance. This was just one of many special moments that we experienced during
our week of sailing in the Caribbean.
We had booked a week aboard Classic Cruises’ 160 foot
sailing yacht Arabella for a cruise of the sailors’ paradise, the British Virgin
Islands. What made this cruise special was the perfect blend of luxury cruising
- minus the crowds - and the intimacy of a sailing charter. If you have ever
thought that a sailing charter in the Caribbean would be a wonderful way to
experience the beauty of these tropical islands up close, but were not confident
enough to charter your own ship, this is the perfect alternative. A sailing
cruise aboard the Arabella is also a great alternative to the massive cruise
ships. The cuisine rivals any meals on the cruise liners, and the relaxing
atmosphere and intimacy of the ship and its ports of call are far better than
the hustle and bustle of the cruise ships.
In addition to the BVI itinerary, the Arabella has
winter/spring cruises to the Spanish Virgin Islands and the French West Indies
of Anguilla, St. Martin, St. Barts, Nevis and St. Kitts. From June through
September the ship sails to various spots in southern New England as well as a
Maine itinerary.
All meals, except one night’s dinner when we were on our
own, are included in the tariff (prices range from $1295 per person to $2195 per
person depending on choice of cabin). Four of the dinners are ashore at either a
world class resort like Caneel Bay on St. John or the Bitter End Yacht Club on
Virgin Gorda, or at a restaurant with a lot of local flavor like Foxy’s on Jost
Van Dyke or the Pirate’s Bight on Norman Island. Thursday’s dinner was a
barbecue aboard ship; and like all of the breakfasts, lunches and snacks
prepared by the chef, the food was outstanding.
Before going ashore for dinner on our first night all the
passengers and crew met for a “welcome reception,” a perfect chance to meet
everyone with whom we would be spending the next six glorious days. The ship can
accommodate up to 40 passengers. We numbered 18, and this small number made it
easy for all to become well acquainted. By the end of the week we were like one
big family, finding it difficult to say goodbye.
Each morning we got under way about 8:00 AM and enjoyed a
scrumptious breakfast buffet, which passengers can enjoy either in the parlor or
outside in the spacious covered cockpit. There couldn’t be a more relaxing place
to enjoy the morning’s last cup of coffee than on the aft deck watching the
Arabella’s sails billow with wind as we sailed from island to island.
Because of the nearly-continuous winds, the close proximity
of the many islands, and the well-protected waters of Sir Francis Drake Passage,
the BVI’s are a Mecca for sailors. If you’re looking for a sailing cruise that
will get you experience in hoisting sails and setting the jibs, the Arabella
probably isn’t for you, as insurance regulations don’t allow for passengers to
work on the upper deck. However, the sailing experience was just as enjoyable as
sailing your own boat.
The Arabella, especially when it is under sail, presents a
beautiful picture – a true classic, three-masted schooner. Yet this classic
elegance shouldn’t belie the modern conveniences of this ship. Each of the 20
cabins offers a private bath and shower, individual climate control, satellite
TV and telephone. It seemed that wherever we sailed, heads were turning to watch
this beautiful vessel under sail. Even Jimmy Buffet’s seaplane, as it whisked
the singer from his yacht one day in North Sound in Virgin Gorda, circled us a
second time to get a closer view.
A typical port of call for the Arabella was a beautiful
beach or a great spot for snorkeling or kayaking. Or, as some of our fellow
passengers did, one could just find a comfortable place on deck or a quiet spot
under a palm tree on the beach and bask in the glow of the warm Caribbean sun
with a good book. Every one of our stops was at a pristine, tropical beach
complete with palm trees or at a great snorkeling spot. Some of the places
included the world famous Baths of Virgin Gorda, The Caves of Norman Island, or
simply a small uninhabited island like Sandy’s Spit, which provided some great
picture taking.
One of our favorite spots was White Bay on Jost Van Dyke.
This crescent-shaped beach of white sand and palm trees is a big attraction for
the sailing crowd. Nestled among the palm trees are a number of beach shack
bars, cafes, and souvenir shops, the most popular of which is the original Soggy
Dollar Bar (voted “Best Beach Bar in the Caribbean” by readers of Caribbean
Travel & Life), best known for inventing the famous painkiller cocktail. The bar
is a little open-sided shack with some tables and chairs in the sand and a
couple of hammocks strung between palm trees. It is this simplicity together
with the picturesque scenery that gives all of these beach bars and cafes such
appeal. Other bars with similar motif along the beach include One World and the
aptly named Ivan’s Stress Free Bar.
It was during the activity-filled days that we saw how
accommodating the 8-person crew could be. Whether it was taking passengers in
the tender to a great spot for snorkeling, outfitting the group for kayaking, or
serving drinks to those warming up in the hot tub, the crew was especially
attentive. There was not one passenger who couldn’t say enough about the
friendliness and attentiveness of the crew.
Each night a couple of the crew manned the tender and
provided transportation ashore for dinner and some of the local nightlife. One
of the night spots when we were anchored at Norman Island was Willy T’s. It’s a
bar on an old frigate anchored at The Bight. The plethora of skiffs tied to this
floating bar was proof of its popularity among the sailing crowd. And it was a
bit of a raucous crowd at that – probably in keeping with the local history of
The Bight and its attraction to the pirates that once sailed these waters. Each
night’s stop afforded some sort of entertainment, whether it was a local band,
DJ, or island favorite Michael Beans, the Pirate Singer.
Our final night of this dream cruise of the BVI’s was spent
at what has become a landmark on Jost Van Dyke and the BVI’s – Foxy’s. What was
once nothing more than a bar on the beach – literally, just the bar and a
refrigerator, not even a roof over it – has become a thriving restaurant serving
a barbeque buffet and a busy souvenir shop. After dinner a group of us spent our
last night together dancing to the reggae band at Foxy’s, a perfect way to wrap
up our sailing adventure in true tropical style.
Saturday morning we were under way early to get to Cruz Bay
for U.S. Customs. We all looked sad as we exchanged e-mail addresses, realizing
that we were headed home. The crew simply laughed at someone’s suggestion that
we mutiny and take the Arabella back to the BVI’s for another week. They
probably have heard that one many times before.
We know it would be hard to duplicate such an enjoyable
trip as this, but a number of the passengers had sailed on the Arabella before,
some as many as seven times, and said they enjoyed each and every trip. We hope
to enjoy the relaxing and luxurious beauty of this classic schooner again on one
of its other cruises.
If You Go:
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For more information on the Arabella and its cruises
call 1-800-395-1343 or visit
www.cruisearabella.com.
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Getting there: American Airlines has a direct flight
from JFK to St. Thomas. From the airport you need to take a taxi to Red Hook
Harbor, about $14 per person. A valid passport is necessary to enter the
BVI’s. On the return day plan for some shopping in the duty-free zone of
Charlotte Amalie. Kim, the Arabella’s dock manager, arranged for taxi driver
to take us to town, keep our bags and pick us up and get us to the airport
in time for our flight. Cost was $20 per person.
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Excursions: On the free day in North Sound, the crew
can arrange for a diving trip or a trip to Anegada, a small island of
beautiful beaches just 14 miles from North Sound.
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Check it out in advance:
www.foxy’sbar.com;
www.bitterendyachtclub.com;
www.britishvirginislands.com;
www.sandcastle-bvi.com/soggydollar.
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