Lovely Little Luxembourg
By JENNIFER M. EISENLAU
Luxembourg –A Bit of Background
 When one thinks of Europe, one thinks of Paris, Munich,
Zurich, and perhaps even Amsterdam. Rarely would one think of Luxembourg – and
that’s a shame because this capital city is a delight. It is packed with good
food, interesting history, and very friendly people. Perched above the Pétrusse
River, this tiny capital city has a population of 82,000 people. Luxembourgers
speak 3 official languages, as well as English, beautifully. The people of Luxembourg have a motto: Mir wölle bleiwe wat mir sin
(translated, “We want to stay what we are.”) This expression captures the
essence of Luxembourg perfectly. Read on to see why.
City Tour of Luxembourg
Start at the Tourist Information Center (Place d’Armes,
located in Palais Municipal). Buy a map or take a walking tour. City sights
include:
 Cathedral
Notre Dame, a late-Gothic church that houses the remains of the beloved Queen
Charlotte. She escaped the Nazis with help from US President Roosevelt. This
church offers a glimpse of the bond between Luxembourg and America.
Le Bock, a World Heritage site that is not to be missed.
With foundations dating to the 9th century, the fortress has housed Celtic,
Roman, French, Spanish, and Luxembourgish soldiers. It is a fascinating look
into Luxembourg’s history. And it is fun place to take children, too.
Palais Grand-Ducal, a royal residence dating from the 16th
century. Once a home for the royal family, the palace is now used for government
functions. Tickets can be obtained from the Information Office.
Place Guillaume, the city market square. The area was named
for the knots in the belts worn by the monks, who once lived there in a
now-vanished monestary. On Wednesday and Saturdays, the square hosts a farmers’
market, not to be missed for fresh produce, flowers, and even baked goods.
Museums, Luxembourg boasts several. First, there is the
Musée d’Histoire de la Ville de Luxembourg. The museum traces a millennium of
city history, from Roman times to the present with displays of weapons, pottery,
and other ancient artifacts. The best feature is the glass elevator. Holding 40
people, it is Europe’s largest. The Musée National d’Histoire et d’Art,
displays works by Bruegel, Rembrandt, Turner, as well as Luxembourg’s own Kutter.
The museum in Luxembourg’s capital are airy, open, and pleasantly unvisited by
the crowds.
Dining
 The beauty of dinning in a country that straddles France
and Germany is a cuisine that embraces the best of all nations – French in
flavor, Germanic in portion, and Luxembourgish in service.
Where is a good restaurant,? one often asks when on a
vacation. If travelers follow the Luxembougers, they will find delicious meals.
Le Brassiere Guillaume at Place Guillaume is place to be on a Saturday. Even for
lunch, the local people are fashionably turned out. Gorgeous Ladies-Who-Lunch
carry expensive handbags and wear scarves elegantly knotted at their throats.
Gentlemen appear in Loden coats and Italian shoes. The ground floor is a bistro
and upstairs is an elegant dining room. Guests should stop to admire the tank
full of swimming fish. One of them will be on someone’s plate, if the bass or
trout is ordered. Visitors must take time with lunch; everyone else does. Oh,
and it is wise to order the crème brûlée for dessert.
 Luxembourg makes its own wines. Most are not sold or served
in the USA. A good start to any meal is a bottle of Crémant Rosé, a dry
sparkling wine made in the Mossel region.
After an aperitif visitors should try regional cuisine at the Alfa Café, located
in the Grand Hotel Mecure Alfa, located at the Place du Gare, across from the
train station. At the entrance to this very large French-style bistro, diners
may examine the evening’s seafood displayed in the blue rowboat. If the array is
not tempting, then the veal cordon blue or pork choucroute are wonderful. Lucky
guests finish with a Grand Dame ice cream parfait, served with a little jug of
melted dark chocolate.
With a rental car, a lovely dining experience awaits those
willing to go farther afield. Dinner at the inn that housed the exiled writer
Victor Hugo is a treat. Legend has it that Hugo helped in a bucket brigade to
put out a fire. Toast the author of Les Miserables with a bottle of K & B Cox
Crémant, then sample the complimentary hors d'oeuvre. The entrecôte, a steak
served with a dollop of sauce, is the Hotel Victor Hugo’s speciality. Wise
diners will finish with a café glacé frozen dessert, just perfect in front of
the cheery fireplaces.
Day Trips
 Near the Hotel Victor Hugo, Valley of the Seven Castles
offers scenic road ways and several castles. The most magnificent is Vianden, a
9th century fortress, beautifully restored within the last thirty years.
The castle sits above the River Our and the forests of the Ardennes.
A drive to Diekirch, once a base of operations for the
Nazis, is a easy side-trip from the city. When the Battle of the Bulge decided
the war, the Americans established their base camp in the little town 20 miles
outside Luxemborg City. The Musée National d’Histoire Militaire presents
life-sized dioramas of WWII, representing the human loss and triumph for both
sides of the conflict. If travelers ever wonder why the Luxembougers are
friendly to Americans, this museum will make it all clear to one and all. The
US Forces were Luxembourg’s liberators, and the country still is grateful.
Another good day out is Mondorf-les-Bains, located 15 miles
southwest of the city. A destination of rejuvenation and relaxation, this spa
offers guests mineral-rich waters heated to 82 degrees. Mondorf claims that its
water can cure arthritis, rheumatism, and chronic obesity.  A trip the spa’s Le
Club is also a must – but only for the bold. Le Club in the Spa Pavilion offers
nude bathers access to co-ed Turkish baths, steam rooms, whirlpools, and saunas.
Le Club can be a truly eye-opening experience.
If you go…
Luxembourg Tourism (www.ont.lu)
Via Luxair www.luxair.lu
, travelers can connect through London or Brussels for Luxemborg City. A train
from Brussels departs daily to Luxembourg (€20 round trip, 2nd class).
Mondorf-les-Baines (domaine@mondorf.lu/,
www.mondorf.lu/).
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