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An Asian-American Restaurant Success

By Darryl Beeson

Mickey Luu arrived in America from Vietnam in 1975, leaving behind a country torn by fierce war. About America, he states, "I love this country, this is the land of opportunity. If you don't take advantage to do some business, then you lose."

And business he undertook. He worked for Northern Telecom, then managed a 7-11 store, later opened his own grocery, worked in real estate, later again he opened a small Chinese restaurant in Garland, Texas. Eleven years after his arrival in the United States, he was ready for the final step. In 1986, he set sight on a larger space across the street and gambled upon the cuisine of his native Vietnam. All of his work experiences came into reckoning.

Inspired by a French owned restaurant that he respected in Vietnam named Arc-en-Ciel, he opened the namesake in working class Garland. Word spread within the community. It was not unusual to see a middle-aged man seated with wife and young children, teaching the children how to use chopsticks and likely sharing softened, untold stories from travels to the war. Sometimes one would see a man with an Asian bride, both seemingly grateful to share a food memory. There were no obvious complaints that the menu did not seem Chinese enough, though gracious Luu would insure the preparation of what his dining guest desired, egg foo young, or not.

Important chefs soon heard of the humble destination. Kent Rathbun, a James Beard award nominee, tells the story of being inspired by the Vietnamese spring rolls, even though he had spent time in Thailand. He constructed a ruse, asking to see some of the equipment in the kitchen, while secretly succeeding in watching a worker build the perfect rolls. These spring rolls are a signature at his Abacus Restaurant in Dallas.

Important restaurant critics soon heard the buzz from the chefs. Arc-en-Ciel was anointed over 15 years ago. The food remains honest and true to Luu's roots. Periodically, over the past decade and a half, Luu has ceremoniously knocked out adjoining walls, each time taking a larger holding in his strip shopping center space. He would celebrate with a tumbler of French Cognac and water, a Vietnamese tradition garnered from the French.

"My secret is to observe and learn the culture and the living in my country," reveals Luu. "Then I know what to do. Doing business is OK. My son, who has helped me, now owns his own restaurant. He graduated from Southern Methodist University. He owns a franchise chicken wings restaurant."

Many other Asians have worked hard. This is no unique story. Each difficult story has its rainbow. Arc-en-Ciel is French for rainbow.

Arc-En-Ciel 3555 W. Walnut St. Garland, TX  972-272-2188

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