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An Asian-American Restaurant Success
By Darryl Beeson
Mickey Luu arrived in America from Vietnam in 1975,
leaving behind a country torn by fierce war. About America, he states, "I
love this country, this is the land of opportunity. If you don't take
advantage to do some business, then you lose."
And business he undertook. He worked for Northern
Telecom, then managed a 7-11 store, later opened his own grocery, worked in
real estate, later again he opened a small Chinese restaurant in Garland,
Texas. Eleven years after his arrival in the United States, he was ready for
the final step. In 1986, he set sight on a larger space across the street
and gambled upon the cuisine of his native Vietnam. All of his work
experiences came into reckoning.
Inspired by a French owned restaurant that he respected
in Vietnam named Arc-en-Ciel, he opened the namesake in working class
Garland. Word spread within the community. It was not unusual to see a
middle-aged man seated with wife and young children, teaching the children
how to use chopsticks and likely sharing softened, untold stories from
travels to the war. Sometimes one would see a man with an Asian bride, both
seemingly grateful to share a food memory. There were no obvious complaints
that the menu did not seem Chinese enough, though gracious Luu would insure
the preparation of what his dining guest desired, egg foo young, or not.
Important chefs soon heard of the humble destination.
Kent Rathbun, a James Beard award nominee, tells the story of being inspired
by the Vietnamese spring rolls, even though he had spent time in Thailand.
He constructed a ruse, asking to see some of the equipment in the kitchen,
while secretly succeeding in watching a worker build the perfect rolls.
These spring rolls are a signature at his Abacus Restaurant in Dallas.
Important restaurant critics soon heard the buzz from
the chefs. Arc-en-Ciel was anointed over 15 years ago. The food remains
honest and true to Luu's roots. Periodically, over the past decade and a
half, Luu has ceremoniously knocked out adjoining walls, each time taking a
larger holding in his strip shopping center space. He would celebrate with a
tumbler of French Cognac and water, a Vietnamese tradition garnered from the
French.
"My secret is to observe and learn the culture and the
living in my country," reveals Luu. "Then I know what to do. Doing business
is OK. My son, who has helped me, now owns his own restaurant. He graduated
from Southern Methodist University. He owns a franchise chicken wings
restaurant."
Many other Asians have worked hard. This is no unique
story. Each difficult story has its rainbow. Arc-en-Ciel is French for
rainbow.
Arc-En-Ciel 3555 W. Walnut St. Garland, TX
972-272-2188
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