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Hidden Treasures:
Town-hopping through Eastern Germany
Photos and text by Janna Graber
 Weimar,
Germany -- People change, so it’s no wonder that places do to. Weimar is
just one example. This former East German town has recreated itself from a
“has-been” city into a vibrant community with a promising future.
It’s
been almost 15 years since I last visited Weimar. Back then, I
was an exchange in East Berlin, exploring the countryside of East Germany.
But the Weimar I remember from those days is gone. It’s been replaced by
bright colors, trendy shops, hip cafés and people in fashionable clothes.
In those
days, communism had its steely grip on the town. Its once-vibrant colors had
been dulled; its economy rewritten. There were few signs of
Weimar’s once grand history in the arts.
For it
was here, in 1775, that Weimar gave birth to German
Intellectualism. The likes of Goethe, Schiller, Nietzsche and Liszt all
called the small city home. It was an exciting time. Then in 1919, the
Weimar Republic and constitution were formed here, and Weimar enjoyed its
place in the limelight.
But the
decades that followed were filled with sorrow. Nazi Germany dug their
barbaric claws into the community, and later, Russian soldiers marched
through town.
When the
Wall fell, all that changed. Weimar crawled up from the past
and seemed to find itself again. Gradually, intellectual and artistic
thought seeped back into its rightful place in town.
The last
ten years have been filled with rejuvenation, giving Weimar a
whole new outlook – one that looks forward to the future with gusto.
 That lively spirit
is easily felt on the city streets. The attractive Schiller
Street, a pedestrian shopping zone, and the market in the town square all
bustle with activity.
 The local theater,
which was once used by the Nazis as an armament factory, has been reclaimed
for the town’s 400-year-old orchestra. Art galleries and museums now dot the
avenues, as do excellent restaurants and pubs (The microbrewery Kostritzer
Schwarzbeirhaus is excellent.)
All of
this dedicated work has paid off: In 1999, Weimar was named
the European City of Culture. It is just one of the many reasons to visit
Eastern Germany.
The
eastern plains of Germany are dotted with lovely towns and villages. It’s
the perfect place for visitors who want to experience a vibrant part of
German culture without the hassle of big cities.
Best of
all, the eastern region is often more affordable than its counterparts in
the western part of the country. New hotels and restaurants are bubbling up
all over the area, and vendors here seem eager to please.
There is
obviously much to see in Eastern Germany, but here are several towns,
besides Weimar, that are well-worth the visit. These communities are within
hours of each other by train, making it simple to town-hop across this
vibrant part of the German nation.
Eisenach: In the
footsteps of masters
Eisenach
is 90 minutes by train from the Frankfurt airport, but it’s a whole world
apart. Founded in the 12th century, this slow-paced town has a population of
only 44,000, yet its residents have made a huge impact on the world.
 It was here
that Martin Luther preached and translated the New Testament while living at
Wartburg Castle, which was founded in 1067. Even today, the castle remains
the town’s very heart. The medieval home sits atop a hill, and is, as one
local man suggested, “one of the most romantic spots to take the one you
love.”
 Those interested
in Luther’s life and work will be pleased with the comprehensive Luther
House, which is located in one of the oldest half-timbered homes in town.
Not
content with helping to change the course of Christianity, Eisenach produced
another master -- Johan Sebastian Bach, who was born here in 1685. The Bachs
were well-known about town, as Johan and other members of the Bach family
sang in St. George’s Evangelical Lutheran church. Their legacy is still seen
all over Eisenach.
The
family home, The Bach House, has an impressive collection of instruments and
Bach history. But the most enjoyable experience at Bach House is listening
to Herr Meissner, a young local musician who was not allowed to study music
until after the Wall fell, play Bach’s work on the original instruments.
Meissner’s passion for Bach’s work is contagious.
Eisenach
is by no means stuck in the past, however. For the last century, the town
has carried a proud automotive manufacturing tradition, and recently became
home to one of the most modern car factories in Europe -- Opel, now owned by
General Motors.
For
those who enjoy the great outdoors, Eisenach has built over 150 miles of
hiking paths. One high-level path, the Rennsteig, starts in Eisenach and
runs through the Thuringian Forest Mountain range.
Naumburg: Wine Country
Reborn
 The tiny town of
Naumburg claims it was once “where the heart of Germany beat in the Middle
Ages.” Perhaps that assertion is true. The 1,000-year-old village is
comfortable mixing today’s world of the Internet and cable TV with buildings
that once housed knights and princesses.
 It’s easy to
imagine those knights at The Burgschänke Tavern at the Castle Schönburg,
which sits high above the Saale River overlooking the lush wine-growing
region of Salle-Unstrut. Dinner here is often served in “medieval” style,
using no utensils and roughly hewn plates. Best of all, the food is served
with the region’s excellent wines – dry whites, hearty reds and local
sparkling wines.
The
surrounding regions have produced wines for over 900 years (several
vineyards have been in the same family for over a century). However, during
communist times, most vineyards were forced to sell to government
cooperatives. Fast forward 12 years later, and the area wineries are back
out on their own again, bravely building up a small, but thriving industry.
Many wineries welcome visitors.
Leipzig: Where the first
brick fell
 Just arriving at
Leipzig train station is an experience. The modern, new facility, designed
after Paddington Station in London, is the biggest rail station in Europe.
It’s also a huge shopping mall.
It’s no
surprise that Leipzig offers such a modern welcome. Over 25% of the town was
destroyed in WWII, and much of it is just now being rebuilt. It’s not
uncommon to see empty buildings with broken windows standing next to
expensively restored structures.
 The city's
current renaissance is summed up in the town’s slogan: "Leipzig kommt!"
which means “Leipzig is on its way.” Given another few years, Leipzig’s
current renaissance will have restored the city to top condition.
 The current atmosphere
is lively and upbeat, and busy coffeehouses, bars and a thriving nightlife
help entertain the city’s population. “This is a young town,” says Romy
Simon, who admits that she is one of the many residents who are not old
enough to remember much of Leipzig during communist days.
 Back then, the
city was gray and dirty, due to pollution from open cast mining and other
factories. Those industries have all been shut down now, and Leipzig has a
shiny, green face with trees, gardens and lakes to enjoy. Downtown Leipzig
is not hard to traverse by foot, and one could easily spend days exploring
all it has to offer.
But the
one thing that stands out most about Leipzig is its role in the “Peaceful
Revolution.” With a population of 500,000, this is where the mighty East
German government began to crumble. And all because some committed souls
began to pray.
In 1982,
a small group of people began gathering at St. Nikolas church to pray for
peace. The group began to grow, with non-Christians and Christians alike
pushing for change in East Germany. By 1989, peaceful protests had sprung up
all over the country. Thousands came to pray at the church. Police tried
shutting down services, but the numbers grew.
 Finally, on October 9,
1989, some 1,000 communist party members and Secret Police were
ordered to fill up the church, hoping to keep others out. But the church
service was held as usual.
That
night, thousands and thousands of marchers walked through the city carrying
candles, singing songs and calling for change. They stopped at the
headquarters of the Secret Police, which they were able to take over
peacefully.
Weeks
later, the government crumbled. And not one shot was fired.
 Leipzig has dozens of
top museums, including the Mendelssohn House, but by far the most
interesting is the Stasi Museum, located in the former headquarters of the
Secret Police. Much of the former police headquarters have been left as it
was in October 1989, with rooms showing how secret police spied on others,
interrogated and held dissenters, went through the mail, eavesdropped on
phone conversations and recruited followers.
The
museum provides a fascinating look at the East Germany that once was. And it
makes one all the more grateful for the Germany that exists today.
IF YOU GO
For more
information on Weimar, see
http://www.weimar.de
For more
information on Eisenach, go to
www.eisenach-tourist.de
For
information on Naumburg:
http://www.naumburg-tourismus.de
For
information on Leipzig, see
http://www.leipzig.de.
Photos
of Leipzig Shopping Mall and Leipzig Market courtesy of the German National
Tourist Office
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