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Historic San Diego

Birthplace of California

By Rick Millikan

San Diego has a long fascinating history! In 1542 Juan Cabrillo entered San Diego Bay, discovering California.  Later in 1769 Father Serra dedicated his first Mission inland from scenic Mission Bay.  Below San Diego de Alcala and the presidio (fort), the west coast’s first European community developed and remains as a testament to the past.    

Our walk back into California history began at Robinson Rose (1853), the town’s first commercial structure; now an information center.  Old Town State Park conducts free 11 AM daily tours. We used their helpful guidebook to view thirty-seven historic structures (1821-1872).   

Surrounding a public quadrangle, timeworn buildings formed a picture of the past. A few steps away, California’s first sheriff lived at McCoy House (1869). Across the street in San Diego House (1838), the first African Americans settled. Behind, Casa Machado Stewart (1838) a heritage vegetable garden reflects a rustic life. Two doors beyond stood adobe Machado y Silvas (1830), where a Mexican flag was hidden from Americans during the 1846 war of California independence.  On the opposite side of the grassy rectangle is the restored wooden Alvarado House (1824). The sister of the last governor appointed by Mexico had resided there.

Casa de Estudillo (1830), the largest home built by the Presidio, has attracted admirers for over a hundred years.  As the love nest of Alessandro and Ramona in Helen Hunt Jackson’s 1884 romantic bestseller, this sprawling hacienda became a popular shrine.  Its adobe walls exude a nostalgic ranchero lifestyle. Authentically furnished, the home’s spacious rooms open onto shady verandas bordering a sunny courtyard.  Doorways and windows look out upon floral walkways and gardens.

Around the corner rise Seeley Stables (1850’s), Yuma-San Diego stage stop, now containing vintage carriages and transportation memorabilia.  Next door was Old Town’s social center and most prominent home. The charming two-storied Casa de Bandini (1869) hosted full calendars of festivities.  Serving later as a hospitable hotel, it remains an amenable restaurant.  In the courtyard, melodic mariachis strummed, strolling around the sculptured fountains and florid gardens. Planning our afternoon adventure, we enjoyed tangy margaritas and tasty hacienda food.

Just off San Diego Avenue stood Adobe Chapel (1850), where Alessandro and Ramona married.  It seemed the perfect refuge from those opposed to their passionate affair.  We returned via El Campo Santo (1850) the town’s cemetery.  Scanning the simple graves, we noted how many settlers died young.  Knowing horse thieves were strung up in the old west, we were stunned that a local hanged for stealing a rowboat. 

An “Old Town” Trolley carried us into the next phase of city history.  Entering the Gaslamp Quarter, our conductor noted,  “After attending a talk on Pacific ports, Alonzo Horton left San Francisco, arriving here in 1867.  Realizing San Diego Bay could be a deep water port, Horton purchased 960 acres along its waterfront at 33 cents an acre.”  Developing shorter city blocks, Horton created the more profitable corner lots and eliminated costly alleys. Below the towering Horton Plaza, his bronze likeness studies San Diego’s blueprint. We hopped off to explore this National Historic District.  Wyatt Earp once owned several bawdy houses among the colourful brick buildings.  

Soon we trolleyed off to Balboa Park.  Horton wisely influenced the city to set aside this parkland. Then the 1915-1916 Panama Exposition bestowed magnificent Spanish Colonial style buildings, now housing fifteen museums. This Exposition’s small menagerie developed into the renowned San Diego Zoo.  Strolling around, we appreciated the splendid architecture and extensive botanical gardens.   Our historic adventure aptly culminated at this wondrous park, San Diego’s crowning achievement.

The Grande Colonial, a historic European-style hotel near San Diego, steps away from LaJolla Cove.  www.thegrandecolonial.com

Old Town Trolley Tours loops historic San Diego allowing unlimited stop offs and reboardings. www.historictours.com

Information re Balboa Park’s fifteen museums may be investigated at: www.balboapark.org

Hike Bike Kayak San Diego offers various levels of cycling tours throughout California’s southern most county. www.hikebikekayak.com

Photo Credits-Chris Millikan

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