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Big Island Eco-ToursSchooled In ParadiseBy Rick MillikanThree eco-tours with Hawaii Forest and Trails turned paradise into an exciting learning center! Rolling along, astronomy guide Megan introduced my wife and I to this Eden of research. “International scientists come to the Big Island to get an extraordinary look at the cosmos, new land formations and evolved plants and animals.” From the hot dry coast we ascended into cool pasturelands. Dining al fresco at a rustic sheep station, we adjusted to the thin air. Continuing upward Megan pointed to Mauna Loa, “That lab there monitors air quality setting international standards. Being 2,000 miles from any continent, air is exceptionally pure here.”
Today thirteen shiny domes cluster nearby, isolated from pollution or light interference. At 13,796 feet, astronomers achieve crystal views above 40 % of earth’s atmosphere. The billion dollar Astronomical Center, the world’s largest observatory complex includes immense radio, optical, and infrared telescopes. Setting up a powerful telescope below the Visitor Center, our star party began with hot chocolate, macadamia nut cookies, and culminated with a new understanding of the universe. At near perfect visibility, Megan sorted out planets, stars, and constellations. We gazed at Saturn’s rings, Moon craters, and in the belt of Orion creation itself, a nebula forging new stars.
Stopping where lava engulfed the highway, Jeanne rallied us. "Time to hike! Today you'll witness new land created!" With walking sticks, hip packs loaded with cameras, and water bottles, we hiked atop shiny smooth undulating pahoehoe, avoiding crusty, sharp patches of a'a. Chris and I studied lava patterns and "Pele's hair", delicate golden strands of silica. Hot day-old acrid smelling pahoehoe shimmered with metallic colors. After three miles, we witnessed a glowing red lava stream oozing into the ocean! Crashing surf created giant steam-plumes, seen for miles. We picnicked above the new "real estate". Our anthropology lesson began as muleskinner Wally explained “Mules have long hauled sugar cane, coffee and nuts to market. Keen eyed and surefooted, mules easily negotiate steep rocky paths!” Mounting our mules Wally led our group toward the secluded Pololu Valley.
Returning to the Mule Station, we better understood early island life and deeply appreciated mules’ contributions to Hawaii’s past! Already our favourite winter destination, the Big Island had become a learning paradise. Photo Credits to Chris Millikan Hawaiian Forest & Trail offers eco-tourism adventures into the Big Island’s most remote areas. Straddling historic ‘Anaeoho’omlu Bay and the King’s highway, Waikoloa Beach Marriot hosts one of the Big Island’s most authentic, colorful luaus. |
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Early Hawaiians trekked this same way for “blue stone”
a basalt compacted by Ice Age glaciers. They greatly valued this cutting
tool material. A simple raised rock and ohia temple remains on the Mauna
Kea’s snowy summit, the center of creation and home to Papa (Earth Mother)
and Wakea (Sky Father).
Our “Volcano Adventure" included more than popular
geology lessons on vulcanism. Crisscrossing the island through most of
earth’s thirteen climatic zones, guide Jeanne spoke extensively upon
biodiversity. After entering Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, we scrutinized
red cinder cones, lava tubes and Kiluea, Hawaii’s famed shield volcano.
Surrounded partially by towering ohia trees and giant ferns, enormous Kiluea
crater ominously smolders. Onward through Kau desert we descended onto a
stark coastal lava plain, noting how colors dated flows. New black lava
degrades into grays; older grays oxidize into rusty browns.
Bonded to trusty Big Boy and Loke Lani (Beautiful
Flower), we rode down a narrow trail pausing at switchbacks to savor
sweeping ocean vistas. At the bottom, we skirted the valley wall through
dense blossoming hibiscus, open Java Plum/Guava forest and remnants of
former settlements. Taro, passion fruit, tangerines, and medicinal plants
still thrive in lush meadows. Absorbing forest fragrances and bird
fanfares, we meandered along the trail. Crossing a creek, we passed over
grassy sand dunes into an ironwood grove. Dismounting, we strolled along a
deserted black sand beach.