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Journeys to Snorkel HeavenInto Hawaii’s Big Island HistoryBy Rick MillikanAfter ambling through the new native plant garden honouring King Kamehameha III’s birthplace, my wife and I neared Keauhou Bay docks for the first of two adventures. Sailing and then rafting along the rugged Kona coastline, we imagined the Big Island as encountered by early Polynesians.
Anchored, the Captain instructed us in personal safety and marine habitat preservation. Flotation devices and snorkeling equipment distributed, including prescription masks, we were ready to explore this pristine marine sanctuary. Colorful fish swirled above creamy cauliflower, yellow-green lobe, and gray-green finger corals. Resembling their land-locked namesakes, squirrel, hawk, butterfly, parrot, goat and lizard fish fluttered and flew through aqua-space. Fanciful moorish idols and silvery unicorn tangs paraded by. Meanwhile, a triggerfish wriggled toward some spiny purple sea urchins. Blowing jets of water, this Hawaiian humu "pig with lei" can bowl such sea urchins over, creating an instant meal.
Three days later we joined ten other passengers on the 28-foot Orca Zodiac. Skimming the waves, while regaling us with salty tales, Captain Kirk paused only for us to observe the frolicking humpbacks and pods of spinner dolphins. Arriving early, we enjoyed more underwater magic at Kealakekua Bay. No line-ups this time, as we simply slid over the rubber sides into the crystal clear water. These efficiencies created extra time for other dive sites. Our return journey hugged the rugged shoreline. Beneath the lush greenery, layer upon layer of red cinder and black lava created formidable cliffs. The powerful grinding surf had undercut what appeared impregnable. Kirk pointed, “See that black boulder perched there? It weighs over a ton. Incredibly, a strong surge thrust it atop the cliff.”
Believing their war god Kukailimoku dwelt here, the shoreline was kapu. In a nearby cove three lava tube “caves” formed his eerie countenance of piercing eyes and “bloody” red gaping mouth. Once torches lit these “eyes”, scaring enemies from over a mile off coast. Adding these two ocean adventures to our laid back-life in sunny Kona, we had journeyed to snorkel heaven and into fascinating Big Island history. Fair Wind has long providing dive and snorkel
adventures at Kealakekua Bay and now afternoon whale watches. Check out the
Fair Wind and Orca Raft adventures at: Kona Coffee can be found at most stores, up country plantations and open markets. I can recommend WoodRose Kona Coffee visited at: www.woodrose-kona-coffee.com |
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Boarding the Fair Wind, we savored Kona coffee from
beans picked, roasted and freshly ground at the owner’s plantation. Hearing
minutes later, “Whale Ho!” we witnessed a humpback mother with her nursing
calf. This same catamaran offers afternoon whale watch cruises. These
passengers might also glimpse escort males performing crashing head lunges,
flipper flops, and splashy tail slaps. Entering Kealakekua Bay, spinner
dolphins joined us. Riding the Fair Wind's wake, they jumped and spiraled
out of the water! These acrobatic mammals, as well as flying fish, are
often seen in this peaceful bay.
Over barbequed burger lunches, we contemplated this
sacred bay. Cliff caves above us entombed royal bones, imbued with
spiritual power from the fertility god Lono. Captain Cook arrived here in
1779 during makahiki celebrations dedicated to Lono; the Hawaiians welcomed
him as Lono! While ships were being provisioned, they realized their
mistake. The Brits proved mortal, subject to both sickness and bad
behavior. When Cook returned months later to repair storm damaged ships,
hospitality had ended, misunderstandings arose and the famous captain was
slain. Ashore stands the Cook Monument, a tall white obelisk honouring
England’s great explorer. Knowing more could be seen, we planned our return
to this idyllic spot. 
Idling in a cove, we examined a recently collapsed
grotto. Once an immense lava tube, it had channeled a stream of red hot
magma sizzling into the ocean. “We often stop here to snorkel around the
unusual volcanic structures,” Kirk said, adding, “See those black crabs
scuttling about the rocks? Hawaiians consider those tasty snacks.”