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Cruising North to AlaxsxaqBy Caroline M. Jackson
The first time we took an Alaskan cruise from Vancouver, it rained so hard that we had to borrow golf umbrellas just to dash over to the on-deck hot tub. On our second more recent venture aboard the Infinity (Celebrity Cruises), the sun smiled on us for all seven days. The secret? Be prepared for every climatic eventuality when traveling in the northwest.
Ninety miles west of Juneau is Baranof Island and the town of Sitka which in Tlingit means by the sea. At one time this historic town was the capital of Russian-America until in 1867, the United States paid $7.2 million to purchase Alaska from the Russians. In its heyday, Sitka was known as the Paris of the Pacific and such was its opulence that local ladies rented their dresses from New York. Perhaps it is this colorful history that attracted James Michener to write his book Alaska here. Sitka's Russian heritage is much in evidence throughout the town. St. Michael's Russian Orthodox Cathedral on Lincoln Street boasts many priceless art treasures including icons and artifacts which were saved when the original structure was destroyed by fire in 1966. Another interesting site is the Russian Bishop's House which dates back to 1842 and is beautifully restored. The backdrop to Sitka is volcanic Mount Edgecumbe which for the last 1210 years has kindly kept a lid on its lava. However, on 1st April 1974, its dormancy was questioned when an Alaska Airline pilot spotted smoke rising from within the volcano. As the plane flew over the cone of the volcano for a closer look, the pilot noticed a huge sign saying April Fool. The pranksters had waited four years for the wind direction and visibility to be right before setting 70 tires alight inside the cone.
That evening as our cruise ship slipped south on its return journey to Vancouver, I pondered upon the writings of John Muir who said: "To the lover of pure wildness Alaska is one of the most wonderful countries in the world." Contacts:
Images by Hamish M. Jackson |
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With more than 33,904 miles of shoreline, the Aleuts
appropriately named Alaska Alaxsxaq which means 'object toward which the
action of the sea is directed'. For today's seafarers, the best way to visit
this 49th State is by cruise ship via the Inside Passage - an 800-km
waterway that meanders north to the Gulf of Alaska. Protected by a plethora
of pristine islands, the route is truly breathtaking. 
A popular port for most cruise ships is Juneau, Alaska's state capital. Only
accessible by sea or air, the city grew out of the 1880's gold rush. On
arrival at the cruise ship dock, we took the tramway for a 1,800' ascent up
to the mid point of adjacent Mount Roberts. From here we had a bird's-eye
view of the Chilkat Mountains to the north and down Gastineau Channel.
Walking along well-marked trails between Sitka Spruce
and Western Hemlock, we took a self-guided hike along the Alpine Loop Trail
and over to Father Brown's Cross. The sun beat down on
us, yet there were still patches of snow clinging to the gullies. After a
refreshing drink at the Timberline Bar, we headed back down to sea level.
Wanting to make capitalize on the lovely weather, we joined
up with a couple of fellow cruisers for a 13-mile taxi ride out to the
Mendenhall Glacier. One hundred feet in height, and 1.5 miles wide, the
lakeside setting of this river of ice is spectacular. Self guided
trails include the Photo Point Trail with handicapped access, the half-mile
Interpretive Trail and the 3.5 mile East Glacier Loop. It is also worth
dallying in the U.S. Forest Service visitors' center to learn more about
glaciers. Once back in downtown Juneau, we walked up the hill to historic
St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox church on Fifth and Gold and had a peek at its
icons and religious treasures. 
From Juneau, some ships venture up Tracy Arm, a narrow
fjord which twists inland for 40 kilometres. On either side we were hemmed
in by slate grey cliffs slashed with ribbons of white water cascading into
the glacial green sea. Harbor seals idly floated atop turquoise icebergs but
the aquatic animals didn't even twitch a whisker as sections of the glacial
wall calved into the ocean with earsplitting cracks.
Despite this violent action, an air of still expectancy hung over the
multihued curtain of ice - the waters were still, the only movement being
created by the slow-moving swirling ice floes and the encircling gulls in
search of nature's bounty.
Just northeast of Juneau is
Skagway which got its name from the Tlingit word Skagua which means 'home of
the north wind.' Located at the head of the Lynn Canal, this frontier town
was the staging ground for prospectors in the Klondike Gold Rush of 1898 and
the jumping off point of the 45-mile trek known as the Chilkoot Trail. By far the best way to retrace the steps of the
Klondike Gold Rush miners is to take a trip of a lifetime aboard the narrow-guage
White Pass & Yukon Railroad. In the early morning, our vintage car left
tidewater Skagway and chugged across deep gorges, along sheer cliffs, over
trestle bridges, through tunnels and upwards and onwards to White Pass
Summit at 2,865'. En route, the place names spoke volumes about the
harsh conditions for man and beast during this historic time. Dead Horse
Gulch, for example, is the graveyard of more than 3,000 pack animals that
met a cruel and untimely end. Black Cross Rock marks the spot where in 1898,
a blasting accident killed two railroad workers. The precipitous 40-mile
route follows the Skagway River and takes just over three hours. 
Much
of downtown Skagway has been restored to its turn-of-the century splendor
with wooden boardwalks and false-fronted buildings - all part of the
Klondike Gold Rush Historic District. Highlights include the Arctic Brotherhood
Hall decorated with a driftwood mosaic and the 1898 Golden North Hotel with
its gold-rush era furnishings. We strolled along
Broadway Street and ventured into The Saloon Theatre where we watched a
melodrama featuring Soapy Smith - a con-man and swindler of Klondike fame.
It was an excellent and colorful production.
Located on an island, Ketchikan is the fourth largest city in Alaska and the
southernmost city of Alaska's panhandle. Located on Revillagigedo Island, it
is surrounded by Tongass National Park's rainforests. Built into steep
hills, the community perches atop wooden pilings which lean against 3,200'
Deer Mountain. The wooden walkways, or stair streets, over the rushing
waters of Ketchikan Creek are a reminder that the area receives 165 inches
of rain annually which is fondly called "liquid sunshine". Most of the
town's historic buildings line Creek Street - a rickety wooden walkway.
To catch a glimpse of the more colorful side of life in days gone by, pop
into Dolly's House, the once infamous bordello where bootlegged whisky and
special favors gobbled up the earnings of early prospectors and fishermen.