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Cheese PairingsBy Carole Kotkin
Madeira syrup that John Besh prepares. He fills the peach cavity with Marscarpone thereby adding a welcome counterpoint to the sweetness. He tops it with a toasted sesame seed tuile. “You’ve got a textural thing going on—the silkiness of the cheese and the crunchiness of the tuile—this makes it a perfect foil for the fruit flavors and rich texture in Broadbent Madeira,” he says. Danish born, Jan Jorgensen, chef/owner of Two Chefs Restaurant in South Miami, Florida is a proponent of “umami,” the fifth taste. Umami is the savory or protein taste that is not one of the four well-known tastes of sweet, sour, bitter and salty. Umami is important to the interaction of wine and cheese because high levels of umami can be found in cheese (especially Parmigiano-Reggiano and Cheddar). Wine consumed with cheese may taste stronger, so Jorgensen seeks out wines that are fruity and medium-bodied rather than those that are high in tannins and alcohol. Chef Jorgensen’s favorite dessert—and now one of mine—is a Gorgonzola soufflé made with the blue-veined cheese, butter, eggs and flour. The texture is creamy and the flavor is rich and nutty. A drizzle of Armagnac over the top of the baked soufflé, “to tickle the taste buds” makes it very receptive to a large Syrah or a Petite Syrah. “The earthy mold in the cheese hints at umami because it’s not sweet, sour, or bitter. It has everything the wine doesn’t have. A complementary wine brings every taste sensation together. There is no battle on the palate,” he clarifies. Jorgensen holds cooking classes to educate his patrons on the uses of cheese in cooking. “The students learn to use Parmigiano-Reggiano as a flavoring highlight; like salt, to a dish that needs more dimension. The umami in the cheese balances all five tastes. They discover that it’s equally at home in risotto, on pasta, sprinkled into soup, shaved onto Carpaccio, melted into fondue, or eaten by itself, accompanied with Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, or Chardonnay.” As people are exposed to a course of cheese in a restaurant setting, they are slowly beginning to see how offering a variety at home can be a lovely way to entertain. Getting to know the pleasures of cheese, however, can be a intimidating prospect, if only because of the astounding number of varieties available. Ari Weinzweig co-founder and CEO of Zingerman’s (a name made up to sound appealing), a deli/catering/restaurant in Ann Arbor, Michigan, has been importing cheeses independently for more than a decade. Rather than relying on a distributor, he travels to Europe to unearth new cheese treasures himself. “It’s my mission to bring the finest traditionally made cheeses back to our customers; cheeses with fascinatingly complex flavors made by skilled craftspeople using time tested techniques and century-old, ” he explains. Weinzweig, who is author of “Zingerman’s Guide to Good Parmigiano-Reggiano” and the forthcoming, “Zingerman’s Guide to Good Eating,” continues, “All our cheese is cut to order, so I have an opportunity to talk to the customer and explain how to serve it, store it and cook with it. Besides, cut-to-order cheeses will almost always taste better than a wedge that has been cut from the same wheel but sealed in plastic for a long time. The customers can taste the cheese to discover for themselves how good it is,” he says. “Hand-made soft cheeses like mozzarella and cream cheese are prepared fresh each morning in our creamery. Made without gums or fillers, they taste of fresh milk and cream the way fresh cheeses did in the 19th century.” For the past twenty years Ihsan Gurdal, a native of Turkey, and proprietor of Boston’s premier food shop, Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge goes abroad three or four times a year—to northern Italy, the Pyrenees, the French Alps—everywhere there are artisans handcrafting cheese. His goal is finding and selling handmade cheeses that tastes the way they should, with flavors it’s meant to have—without preservatives or mass production. He takes pride in his discoveries, “I have cheeses never seen in the United States before. It’s like being in Italy.” In 1995 he built the first cheese-finishing cave in the United States—a cool, humidified room for aging cheese to perfection. Not a true cave, like those in Europe, this one was built in the store’s basement against the naturally damp foundation of the building where the temperature is always 50 degrees. A trickling fountain keeps the humidity up to 90 percent. Cheeses from around the world rest on shelves made of thick redwood and spruce. “It occurred to me that the problem with cheeses in America is not that they arrive in poor shape, but that once here they are mishandled, cut too soon, and stored improperly, “ he says. The cheeses are regularly washed, flipped, brushed and tasted before they are finished. Gurdal ages more than 100 cheeses in the cave and has 300 to 400 different cheeses upstairs ready to be sold. He is currently building a room especially for aging goat cheese. Many restaurants prefer to buy small, manageable quantities from specialty food stores like his instead of maintaining a costly cave. Gurdal has 200 restaurant customers nation-wide; among them The French Laundry, Emeril’s, and Charlie Trotter’s. Formaggio Kitchen and its smaller version in Boston’s South End has long been known not for just cheese, but for its specially selected inventory of hundreds of other delicacies to go with cheese—6 different mostardas (a sweet-and-sour condiment made of various fruits from the Lombardy region of Italy),chutneys, dried fruit cakes, fruit pastes like pear and quince, agrumia (orange rind), senapata (mustard seeds and quince paste), 40 year old balsamic, bitter chestnut honey from Corsica, rich Milanese strawberry honey, and delicate “macchia” honey from the village of Cara di Tirreni near Salerno. Laura Werlin offers some good advice in her new book, The All American Cheese and Wine Book, "Matching cheese with wine is neither science nor art. It is fun, and it is a great means of entertaining. Pick up a few cheeses, one or two wines, and you're on your way to a great party, picnic, or an intimate dinner for two. But if you want to take your experience to another level and really understand cheese and wine pairing, then the best way to do it is to taste, taste, taste." Mail Order Cheese and CondimentsZingerman’s—888-636-8162 or www.zingermans.com Formaggio Kitchen—623-51-0595 or www.formaggiokitchen.com Artisanal Cheese Center—877-797-1200 or 212-239-1200 or www.artisanalcheese.com for information More information: www.ilovecheese.com |
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There’s no limit to the enticing flavors and
interesting textures of Italian cheeses or the many ways they can be used.
Either soft and luscious like marscarpone, mild and mellow like
Parmigiano-Reggiano or zestfully pungent like Gorgonzola, Italy produces some of the finest cheeses in the world today. It
is difficult to imagine Italian cuisine without cheese, whether it is being
served on a cheese plate, mixed into pasta or risotto, or fashioned into a
dessert. 
A cheese course can be a platter of carefully chosen
cheeses, a selection of cheeses from a classic French cart, or even a single
great cheese. More often today it is served as a pairing—that is,
accompanied by other foods such as these classic trios: Parmigiano, honey
and walnuts; Mascarpone, pears and hazelnuts; Gorgonzola, figs and pine
nuts. Italian cheeses also work well in conjunction with other earthy
treasures such cured olives and hearty, whole-grain breads. These classic,
savory-sweet combinations allow for stunning results and sumptuous wine
pairings. 
Nancy Radke is Director of U.S. Information Office for
the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano, the industry group that
certifies the authenticity of this cheese. I spoke with her last October at
the Fairmont Banff Springs Festival of Wine & Food held in Banff Springs,
Canada as she effortlessly opened a huge 88 pound wheel of
Parmigiano-Reggiano. She explained, “A perfectly
floral Parmigiano with aromas of honey and roses can be paired with a wild
flower honey or an aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena to echo those
aromas and enhance the underlying flavors of the cheese. The crystalline
texture (small tartrate crystals form naturally in the cheese as it ages) of
the cheese marries well with the sticky sweet texture of the honey or
balsamico and nuts confirm the nutty flavor in the cheese. ”
The parallels between wine and cheese are remarkable. Radke said, “Both are
made from a simple base liquid of unpasteurized grape juice or milk that is
transformed through fermentation; yeasts for wine, bacteria for cheese. They
end up having a lot of similar structure going on with aromas, tastes and
textures that are far more complicated than the raw materials from which
they are made. Like wine, cheese reflects the terroir, so no two cheeses
are the same, just as no two wines or vintages are the same. Cheese and wine
seem to go so well together because they come from the same natural
processing.” Both require a certain degree of aging before reaching their
peak of enjoyment. 
Despite the similarities between cheese and wine,
matching them up can be a daunting task. Because both cheese and wine can
behave quite unpredictably, there are no simple rules for cheese and wine
matching, and any advice will usually be contradictory. In general, cheese
and wine produced near the same region marry well. But what’s most
important, the experts say, is that neither overwhelms the other. Thus,
robust blue cheeses like Gorgonzola should be matched with equally strong
red wines, while more delicate, creamier cheeses like mascarpone need an
intense fruity white or fruity red wine. Many
connoisseurs say the best match for cheese is white wine, not red, and often
sweet. Laura Werlin, a board member of the American Cheese Society, says, “A
contrast is sometimes particularly nice. Enjoying sweet and salty or sweet
and savory flavors together is a fundamental physiological pleasure, which
is why cheese and wine make such fine bedfellows.” 
Scott Conant, Executive Chef/Co-owner of L’Impero in
Manhattan, and a fervent advocate of continuing Italy’s artisanal culinary
tradition, prides himself on L’Impero’s selection of cheese. Chef Conant offers eight different Italian cheese plates from which
diners can select three. One of the selections is an unlikely but delicious
combination: Gorgonzola “dolce latte”(cow’s milk) with shaved bitter
chocolate and orange and peperoncino marmelatta. “Some strong cheeses make
your tongue itch, but the creaminess of the Gorgonzola makes it more
palatable. The orange compote and bitter chocolate gives the cheese depth
and soul. Each combination has its own breath,” says Conant. Chris Cannon,
wine sommelier and partner at L’Impero suggests a Casorzo (Malvasia) Passito
“Pico”Accornero 1998 from the Monferrato area of Piedmont or a Malvasia
Delle Limpari from Hauner in Sicily to harmonize with this cheese plate.
Conant pairs Parmigiano “Vacca Rossa” Reggio Emilia (a cheese aged 24
months) with a drizzle of 12 year old balsamico di Modena from the same
region. Sommelier Cannon recommends a very rich Trebbiano D’Abruzzo from
Valentini or Masciarelli that is at least 6 to 8 years of age to go with the
cheese-vinegar combination. 
Picholine and Artisanal in Manhattan are two of a small
number of restaurants that maintain and age cheeses themselves, and they
don’t shy away from selections that are “funky,” “smelly,” or “moldy.”
Artisanal’s cheese-themed menu describes cheeses as “aromatic,”
”challenging,” “mouth-numbing” and “assertive, bordering on mean.” Terrance
Brennan, acclaimed chef-proprietor of Picholine, Artisanal and Terrance
Brennan’s Seafood and Chop House, worked in France in the mid eighties where
his appreciation of fine cheese began. “My passion for cheese grew not just
for the incredible range of colors and textures, aromas and tastes, but for
all the effort and care that goes into it, “ he says. Fueled by his
enthusiasm for cheese and his desire to make the cheese course a part of
everyday dining, Brennan has recently launched Artisanal Cheese Center in
Manhattan, a 10,000 square foot multi-functional facility, completely
dedicated to the art of aging or affinage of fine cheeses, and the first
establishment of its kind in the United States.
“When we began to offer fine cheeses at Picholine nearly a decade ago,
Americans’ awareness and appreciation for fine cheeses was in its infancy.
The opening of the Artisanal Cheese Center represents an entirely new world
of possibilities for the aging and enjoyment of fine artisan cheeses from
around the world,” he says. Brennan assembled a team of cheese experts
headed by Picholine’s maitre fromagers, Max McCalman and Daphne Zepos, to
educate the public in all aspects of cheese and wine pairings, cheese plate
composition, and cheese production. McCalman who is also co-author of The
Cheese Plate, says that wine and cheese pairings deserve serious
contemplation, “I’m often asked what to consider first when matching cheese
and wine; the wine or the cheese? At Picholine, where about three-quarters
of the customers order a cheese course as part of their meal, I look at the
wine being served at dinner and choose a cheese to go with it. I usually
have eighty different cheeses on hand, so the choice is wide. Cheese almost
always demands more from its wine partner, than vice versa. It’s not always
possible to find the perfect food or wine accompaniment for each cheese on a
plate. A regional pairing of Gorgonzola and Moscato d’Asti which are made
within 100 kilometers of each other makes a natural pairing, but usually
it’s a roll of the dice.” He recommends experimenting with different
combinations to find what you like, just as you would with any food and wine
coupling. 
Although New York is a city most ardent about cheese,
cheese now appears on the best tables across the country. In New Orleans at
Restaurant August, executive chef John Besh has grabbed the spotlight as the
newest culinary star in this food-savvy city. He has a special fondness for
cheese, especially Gorgonzola. On the cheese tray Gorgonzola provides a
contrast of color and brightly assertive flavor to complement other
varieties. There is simple, classic elegance to the wedge of rich, sharp
Gorgonzola served with a glass of Port and a luscious ripe pear. Drinking
sweet wines—Port, Sherry, Madeira, Sauternes and late-harvest whites with
cheese makes sense to Besh, who points out that “the accompaniments to
cheese are often sweet: Fruit, marmalade, honey, and quince paste come to
mind. I love Gorgonzola with candied pumpkin seeds (they have no astringency
like walnuts) and grilled figs. The figs are marinated in honey-lavender
vinaigrette before grilling and that adds a different dimension to the figs.
The sweet finish of Pedro Ximenez Sherry is like drinking a fig. It marries
so well with the saltiness of the Gorgonzola.” 
Mascarpone attained instant stardom on the restaurant
scene in the 1980’s as the principle ingredient of Tiramisu, the wildly
popular dessert that combines ladyfingers soaked in espresso with
Mascarpone, sugar, egg yolks, and cocoa powder. They also make golden Miele
di Tarassaco honey made from dandelion nectar and amber-colored sweet Miele
di Millefiori (1,000 flowers) that go well with aged Gorgonzola. Varietal
honeys are difficult to find because they are made from the nectar of
flowers that bloom when nothing else does. Instead of the common pairing of
aged balsamic, I like to mix new balsamic with honey and drizzle it over
Parmigiano. There is no acidity in the cheese and this balances the taste,”
says Chef Guglielmi. The most familiar way of using Parmigiano-Reggiano is
grated or shaved, as a seasoning or condiment. Chris Cannon,wine sommelier
and partner at L'Impero suggests a Casorzo (Malvasia) Passito "Pico"Accornero
1998 from the Monferrato area of Piedmont or a Malvasia Delle Limpari from
Hauner in Sicily to harmonize with this cheese plate. Scott Conant,
executive chef-co-owner of L'Impero in Manhattan, and afervent advocate of
continuing Italy's artisanal culinary tradition, prides himself on
L'Impero's selection of cheese. Chef Conant offers eight different Italian
cheese plates from which diners can select three. Conant pairs Parmigiano "Vacca
Rossa" Reggio Emilia (a cheese aged 24 months) with a drizzle of
twelve-year-old balsamico di Modena from the same region. Chris Cannon, wine
sommelier and partner at L'Impero recommends a very rich Trebbiano D'Abruzzo
from Valentini or Masciarelli that is at least six to eight years of age to
go with the cheese-vinegar combination. McCalman who is also co-author of
The Cheese Plate, says "A regional pairing of Gorgonzola and Moscato d'Asti,
which are made within 100 kilometers of each other, makes a natural pairing,
but usually it's a roll of the dice." 
A remarkable link between cheese and cuisine may be
perceived in this cheese. Parma lies in the fertile flat lands of the Po
River Valley that have made the region world famous for two pillars of
Italian gastronomy: Parma ham, known here as proscuitto, and Parmigiano,
also known as the noble fruit of the milk of Parma. There production is
closely interlinked. The region's pastures produce the hay used as fodder
for the cows whose milk is used for the cheese. And the whey, a by-product
of the cheese making process, is fed to locally bred pigs that will be
transformed into proscuitto. According to Gene Opton, author of Honey: A
Connoisseur's Guide with Recipes, "Most honey in the United States has been
homogenized by large packers or cooperatives. They blend many honeys even
from several countries, to get a consistent taste. Small artisanal producers
in the United States, Europe and elsewhere are making honeys that are
distinctive.” Ari Weinzweig co-founder and CEO of Zingerman's (a name made
up to sound appealing), a deli/catering/restaurant in Ann Arbor, Michigan,
has been importing honeys and cheesesindependently for more than a decade.
Rather than relying on a distributor, he travels to Europe to unearth new
cheese treasures himself. "It's my mission to bring the finest traditionally
made cheeses back to our customers; cheeses with fascinatingly complex
flavors made by skilled craftspeople using century-old, time-tested
techniques," he explains. Weinzweig, authorof Zingerman's Guide to Good
Parmigiano-Reggiano and the forthcoming, Zingerman's Guide to Good Eating,
continues, "All our cheese is cut to order, so I have an opportunity to talk
to the customer and explain how to serve it, store it and cook with it.
Besides, cut-to-order cheeses will almost always taste better than a wedge
that has been cut from the same wheel but sealed in plastic for a long time.
The customers can taste the cheese to discover for themselves how good it
is," he says. "Hand-made soft cheeses like mozzarella and cream cheese are
prepared fresh each morning in our creamery. Made without gums or fillers,
they taste of fresh milk and cream the way fresh cheeses did in the 19th
century."