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French Musings in ParisBy Patricia TanumihardjaEven after having visited countless times, I am constantly lured back, forever finding reasons to return. This time, I am crossing the Atlantic, on my way to visit my favourite city toute seule.
Wandering the QuartierI find a comfortable apartment for the week in Montmartre, Paris’s most picturesque, albeit touristy, neighborhood. The main attraction is the Basilique Sacré Coeur dominating the summit of la butte, the tallest of Paris’s seven hills. Yet, if you steal away into the back streets, you will discover the delightful neighborhood of the true Montmartrois.
Very soon, the busy shops and commercial establishments fade into quaint cottages and charming villas. Here, I wander aimlessly, admiring the beauty and tranquility of the neighborhood. A Lunatic’s Confectionary Dream
For the next few evenings, I hike to the top of la butte to watch the sunset. The sky turns a pinkish-blue and the moment the sun dips below the horizon, the city-lights sprinkle on and illuminate the sky. The scene is magical. Sensory DelightsYes, I do admit a weakness for French pastries. Alas for my diet, around the corner from my apartment is a wonderful patisserie. The heady aroma of freshly-baked pastries permeates the sidewalk every morning, and my well-trained nose inevitably leads the way. My eyes feast on pain au chocolat, croissants, éclairs, and exotic fruit tarts sitting on the counters, all exclaiming, “eat me, eat me!” Despite knowing it unwise to succumb to delectable pastries on a daily basis, resistance for me is futile. To enjoy the quintessential Parisian past-time of wiling the afternoon away at a café, I make my way to the famous Café de Flore. It thrills me that the likes of Sartre and Hemingway had occupied this very same space, discussing great novels and engaging in deep philosophical debates. Although any one of Paris’s numerous cafés is suited to my preferred activity -- people-watching.
Shopping Parisian Style
Sanctuary in the City
For me, the joys of Paris are not so much linked to the museums I visit or the monuments I see. Rather it is in experiencing the city in all its hidden charms and secret voices. After travelling solo in the city that has captivated me over and over again, I have to agree with Ernest Hemingway - “There is never any ending to Paris, and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other…” (A Moveable Feast) If You GoThe easiest way to get around Paris is by using the subway called the Metro. For information on all public transportation within Paris and its suburbs, visit http://www.ratp.fr/. The area of Montmartre is served by
the following metro stations: Place Du Tertre Moulin de la Galette Basilique Sacré Coeur Café de Flore Galeries Lafayette Parc Monceau The official French government tourist information website www.franceguide.com Best Guidebook: 'Eyewitness Travel Guide to
Paris' A Great Read: 'A Moveable Feast' by Ernest
Hemingway (1960) Photographs by Omar Wheatley |
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TM
Aah…Paris -- a whirlwind of sights, sounds and smells.
From people-watching at cafés to getting lost in suburban neighborhoods, I
have every intention of letting the simple pleasures of Paris invade my
senses. So poised with pseudo-French chic, I am ready to discover a Paris
all my own. . 
As I zigzag
the cobblestone streets and meandering alleyways of Montmartre, I pass an
assortment of food stores, boutiques and cafés. I pause at the Moulin de la
Galette, a restored mill that used to be a famous dancehall. Renoir’s
painting “Le Bal de Moulin de la Galette” comes to mind. I can almost see
the boisterous clientele dancing in the acacia-shaded courtyard and hear the
rambunctious merrymaking commonplace in the dancehall’s heyday. Just beyond
the artistes and expensive cafés of bustling Place du Tertre, I find Place
du Calvaire, a quiet haven offering gorgeous views over the rooftops of
Paris. 
Despite its ridiculous nickname, I consider the
Basilique Sacré Coeur with its gleaming white domes and soaring campanile
the most stunning church in Paris. Brilliant mosaics decorate the interior.
The beautiful rose window adorning the entrance is one of the most
impressive I have ever seen. Rays of sunlight stream in through the windows
of the domed cupola, bathing me in divine radiance. Outside, there are
sweeping views of Paris from the basilica’s front steps and superior views
from the dome’s Galerie des Colonnes. 
As I sip my café au lait,
one Parisian belle after another struts by on the concrete catwalk.
Sigh…why do women in Paris always look so good? My French friend explains.
Parisian women do not try to fit into a stereotype; a petite brunette can be
just as attractive as a leggy blonde. They are confident of their individual
attributes, developing their own distinctive style. Originality is what
counts. With this revelation, I sit up straighter, tousle my hair and
put on my sexiest pout. I can only hope that the magic rubs off on me.
When it comes time to shop, I head to Galeries
Lafayette, a department store like no other. Its 33-metre-high stained
glass dome and art nouveau staircase have classified the store as a historic
monument. The store was originally conceived as a bargain outlet not unlike
an oriental bazaar, with a hodgepodge of merchandise intended to drive
customers into a buying frenzy. Today with 96 departments covering 10
floors, this goal has certainly been achieved. Not to be missed is
Lafayette Gourmet, one of the fanciest grocery stores in Paris. Whether
shopping for a picnic or a dinner party, Lafayette Gourmet has everything
you need. I survey the counters and shelves crammed with a superb selection
of French and foreign cheeses, international coffees and teas, smoked
salmon, caviar, chocolate and more! I leave with my share of goodies to
stash in my suitcase.
Ringed with neo-classical mansions, Parc Monceau is a
sanctuary within the bustling city. Stepping through splendid cast-iron
gates, I enter a totally different world abundant with beautiful shrubs,
flowers and trees. Parc Monceau is partly situated on the former estate
Folie de Chartres, built for the Duc d’Orleans. The architect of the folie,
Carmontelle, wanted to create a land of illusion and the original estate
contained among other things, an Egyptian obelisk, a Chinese pagoda and a
Roman temple. I search for Carmontelle’s legacies only to find a peculiar
pyramid and a “naumachie,” an oval lake fringed by colonnades. After a good
rest, I exit the park past groups of schoolchildren playing in the pathways,
careful not to trip over tiny feet and skipping ropes.