Chartres, France : More Than a CathedralOld Faithful: the CathedralBy Will Snyder
The beautiful and imposing cathedral, sharing the name Notre Dame with its equally famous cousin in Paris, served as a model for other medieval cathedrals such as Bourges and Beauvais. Part of its lasting attraction has been its miraculous escape over the centuries from extensive damage due to wars and pillaging. There is no question that the cathedral is the focal point and crowing glory of the town, but the old town holds many other attractions that make a longer stay quite pleasant. My timing there was perfect, staying over Easter weekend when Chartres hosts what is called the Festival de Paques.
The paving in part of the floor of the cathedral is in the form of a world famous labyrinth. This maze consisting of 11 concentric circles was built to represent the pilgrim’s path in this life and the road to salvation in the next. It was often walked by pilgrims on their knees, as a substitute for an actual pilgrimage to Jerusalem. The completed path is rich in symbolism and essentially represents a search for enlightenment. Today, the labyrinth is open to visitors to walk or simply admire. This can best be done on Fridays, when the chairs that otherwise cover it are removed.
The Easter Music FestivalThis year the festival hosted a total of 27 concerts at a half dozen venues around town, from the cathedral itself to the town hall auditorium to a specially constructed concert tent on the cathedral square. Sacred music for the organizers is from the Christian heritage and the musical categories are very wide, from traditional Byzantine chants to Corsican polyphony, from pop to reggae to rock. And while the majority of the musicians are French, others hailed from Serbia, Britain and South Africa, and future editions will be increasingly international. Spiritual music, yes, and few would be here if they didn’t enjoy giving praise, resulting in a true camaraderie in the streets.
There were memorable musical moments. Chemin Neuf offered a set of world music, mostly folk ballads with saxophone, percussions and guitar support. The rhythms were pleasing to the crowd, the different musicians shared the lead vocals. The effect was a variant of Mamas and the Papas but looking like modern Nuns and the Priests.
This Riverdeep family has been playing together for nearly 10 years, and live in close proximity in Southeast England. They have day jobs and families, so the logistics of a trip to Chartres need to be carefully managed. In fact they came in a van, leaving the previous day and taking the night ferry from Southampton, returning by the same route a few hours after the concert. Their lives consist of a spiritual commitment, with efforts focused on evangelizing and success counted not in the number of CDs sold but by converts to their faith. Sam told me that his greatest achievement is winning a convert who did not previously believe in God.
In the streets of Chartres, the town united behind the festival. Many bars and cafes opened their doors to the groups that had played at festival venues during the day, and crowds poured out into the narrow medieval streets with drinks in hand as the music played on. While in Chartres…
Well worth a visit is the Agricultural Museum (known by the cluttered French COMPA: Conservatoire du Machinisme et des Pratiques Agricoles), located in a restored train building and presenting exhibits on rural life and artifacts used over the centuries. There is one place you should not miss- the fabulous Centre International du Vitrail (Stained Glass Museum), which had several ongoing exhibits while I was there. With the amazing stained glass windows of the cathedral (many from the 12th Century), Chartres has maintained a core of expert craftsmen who carry on the ancient traditions with a world-class artisan school for renovation and creation. There are also several fascinating shops in town that sell refurbished pieces from the past as well as colorful inventions from today’s artists. There are religious sites to visit, all along the walking path. Churches include St Pierre, St Aignan, the Chapel of St Foy that has been converted into the Gallery of Chartres, the cloister of the Cordeliers and the St Eman chapel. You can also stroll in the beautiful gardens of the Bishop and the Priory of St Vincent. Chartres is hosting July 2- 4, 2004 the International Festival of Gospel and Negro Sprirituals. And on July 8, 2004 the Tour de France bicycle race will arrive in Chartres, stop overnight, and leave again the next morning. An occasion to encourage Lance Armstrong to become the first ever to win 6 times. For more informationwww.ville-chartres.fr Where to eatPicturesque watermill with a nice view of the cathedral: Le Moulin de Ponceau - 21, Rue Tannerie - 28000 Chartres, Tel : 33 2 37 35 30 05 Bustling brasserie and great people watching, right on cathedral square : Le Café Serpente - 2, Cloître Notre Dame - 28000 Chartres , Tel : 33 2 37 21 68 81 Will Snyder is a free lance writer living in southwest France. Photographs by Will Snyder |
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Visitors to Paris, take note: Chartres is only an hour by train from Gare Montparnasse, an easy day trip to visit the breathtaking Gothic Cathedral, built over eight hundred years ago to honor the Virgin Mary. This masterpiece is one of the most revered religious monuments in the world, but there is more to see in Chartres –you might want to stay an extra day or two. If in addition you can time your visit during one of several sacred music festivals during the year, you have won the jackpot. Each spring the town holds an Easter Music Festival, and in July this year a Gospel and Negro Spiritual Festival is scheduled. Of course, Chartres is also a great place to begin a tour of the Loire Valley. 
Chartres was a great center of pilgrimage in the Middle Ages, and the cathedral still exhibits the famous relic which contributed to its fame: the silk tunic worn by Mary on the day she gave birth to Jesus. There were other treasures: miraculous statues, a miraculous well, the head of St Anne, the Virgin’s mother. Like the arriving pilgrim, today’s visitor is overwhelmed by the relics and stories, by the over 4,000 sculpted figures in every conceivable place and by the huge arching walls seemingly suspended in air with enormous stained glass creations depicting the stories and beliefs of Christianity. The predominant color of the stained glass is a deep blue that has become associated with this cathedral. 
There is also an ancient crypt accessible from across the street from the cathedral, contains interesting relics and treasures in subterranean chapels. No one was ever buried in the crypt or the cathedral, to keep its dedication to the Virgin free from any corruption. It is possible to climb 195 stone steps to a terrace with interior and exterior views of great beauty. A number of English language tours are available. Ask at the nearby Tourist Office or at the cathedral’s bookshop.
Some 300 volunteers operate the stands, provide directions to visitors and roam the streets, easily spotted in their red sleeveless jackets with the “Paques: Le Festival” printed on the back along with other graffiti, such as “Jesus freak” added by hand. 
Riverdeep, a pop band from Sussex, a clean cut version of Jackson 5- three brothers a sister and a cousin. With traces of the Corrs and the Bangles, they put good harmonizing vocals to a bouncy rhythmic sound. The group members had lived for four years in France and conversed quite well with the audience, even singing a few verses of each song in French. There were occasional howlers, and lead singer Esther realized one right away after pleading with the audience “Voulez vous sauter avec moi?” (which has a second inviting connotation) in trying to get everyone to jump up and down to the music. It was honest drug free fun, the concert tent full and the wooden planks bouncing with the crowd. Esther sang her pop lyrics, her brother and lead guitarist Sam led the group in a few improvised prayers in both English and French. At one point four mischievous gendarmes walked in and mimicked the jumping spectators, had a good laugh, and left.
The Serb singer Divna and her supporting group were the most enchanting and pure sound to be heard at this years festival. Haunting, orthodox a cappella music that had the sellout crowd in the medieval church of St Pierre mesmerized. The 9 person supporting vocals added layers of complexity and richness to the sound. So delicate and profound was the music, that the spectators –only a few who could understand the Serbian text- were utterly silent. Divna has directed chorales of sacred orthodox music since she was 19 years old, and has just released her first CD. This is a name to remember, as has been selected to appear in the most prestigious festivals of this sort over the next couple years. 
What to do outside of the cathedral? Well, the medieval streets and alleys are a treat in themselves, you are sure to wander by most of the sites just ambling along. The town has posted signs to lead the visitor on a 3 kilometer walk that takes in the key attractions, many down winding streets to the river below or the hills above. These include a variety of museums: the Museum des Sciences Naturelles et de Prehistoire, the Musee des Beaux-Arts, the Maison de l’Archeologie. All worthy of a visit, because Chartres has always been a center of learning and these are its display cases of collections and points of view.