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Experiencing the Magic of French Polynesia
in Bora Bora and Moorea
By Katie McElveen
Dropping anchor in Tahiti in 1769, Captain James Cook
and his crew were delighted—and a bit surprised--to be welcomed to the
island by friendly Tahitians laden with gifts of flowers and tropical
fruits. Today, nearly two and a half centuries later, that gracious custom
hasn’t changed. Jetlagged travelers, many of whom have been in transit for
more than twenty-four hours, can’t help but muster smiles as they’re greeted
by the small and hospitable flower-bearing welcoming committee at Papeete’s
airport. As the creamy white blossoms fill the air with their heady
fragrance, the magic of this captivating world begins to take hold.
That legendary magic is what has driven romantics and
adventure-seekers, writers and artists to these remote South Pacific islands
for centuries.
It’s not hard to see why. With air so clear that the
mountains seem close enough to touch, the whirlwind of tropical colors—deep
magenta bougainvillea, bleached white clouds, pareos in every hue whipping
in the breeze, all against a backdrop of lush green—is electrifying.
But it’s the water that’s truly mesmerizing, palest
celadon, aquamarine and deep midnight creating a surreal patchwork of blues.
Tahiti’s breathtaking water is the fortuitous result of
the lagoons that surround each island. Held captive by a necklace eons-old
volcanic rock, the water inside each lagoon is alive with not only color,
but with sharks, sea turtles, coral and a riot of tropical fish.
 Bounded on two sides by islands, Bora Bora’s lagoon is
perhaps the world’s most famous. Since it’s fairly small (Bora Bora is only
20 miles around), one of the best, and most fun, ways to explore it is by
circling the island on a waverunner. Zooming through the water, which can
change depth and color dramatically in just a few yards, turbo-charged
explorers can experience incredible views of majestic Mount Otemanu from a
coral reef or from the white sand beach of one of the many motus, or islets,
that dot the lagoon. Looking for more? Bora Bora’s lagoons teem with fish,
and scuba divers commonly see unique creatures such as smiling moray eels
within the lagoons coral gardens. True thrill seekers will enjoy the
island’s legendary shark feeding tours, an underwater adventure where black
tipped lagoon sharks are baited and fed just a few feet—and no
protection--away.
Of course, Bora Bora isn’t just about the water. Under
the constant watch of Mount Otemanu, this amazingly romantic island is
filled with art galleries, restaurants and deserted beaches just waiting to
be explored, either by car or by bike. During the day, stop by one of the
many snack shops along the beach for poisson cru, an island delicacy of raw
tuna. In the evening, it’s easy to get a taste of Bora Bora, since most
restaurants offer free transportation to and from local hotels.
Lodging on Bora Bora runs the gamut from guest houses
to traditional hotels, but for the most one-of-a-kind experience, it’s worth
the expense to stay in one of the area’s famed over water bungalows. With
thatched roofs, windows that can be opened for fish feeding built into the
floor, large walled decks complete with lounge chairs and small staircases
leading directly into the lagoon, the bungalows put an emphasis on privacy
and romance. Stay on the main island or, to truly get away from it all,
rent a bungalow at one of the resorts on their own motus, such as the Pearl
Resort (which offers helicopter service between its three Polynesian resorts
for guests who want to visit several islands) or, with its turtle-filled
lagoonarium, Le Meridien. Either way, it’s a thrill to fall asleep to the
ocean sloshing gently below the floor and awaken to an unfettered view of
that cerulean water.
 While Bora Bora is all about the water, Moorea, a
jade-colored gem of an island just a ferry ride away from Papeete, is all
about tropical beauty. Here, verdant green mountains seem to rise out of
the ocean, offering spectacular views of the island’s famous bays (Cook’s
Bay and Opunohu Bay). Thanks to a road system almost as extensive as
Tahiti’s, most of Moorea’s lookouts, including the stunning Belvedere, are
accessible by car. To turn your motorized tour of the island into an
adventure, explore the island, including the volcanic crater that created
it, on a four-wheel drive off-road safari. A terrific way to see areas of
the island that are inaccessible to most visitors including remote open air
temples and deep valleys, the safari tours usually include stops that offer,
after a short walk, amazing vistas that are hidden to most visitors.
Naturalists will enjoy hiking tours on ancient trails through the forest,
where guides can point out native plants and their importance to local
culture.
On the water, dolphin-watching is a tradition in Moorea.
Small, feisty spinner dolphins are regulars in Moorea’s blue lagoon, and
they delight watchers with their antics. Slip quietly into the water and,
if you’re lucky, they’ll approach and you can see them underwater through
your snorkel mask.
Like its island cousins to the northwest, Moorea’s tiny
seaside villages, with grocery stores and local snack shops sitting
alongside upscale jewelry stores selling black pearls and other merchants
who sell their wares to tourists, are friendly and worth exploring. Much of
the local art is Gauguin-esque, no doubt influenced by Tahiti’s most famous
artist, but there is also a wealth of local jewelry available, much of it
made with colorful seeds, shells and other natural materials.
The early artists such as Paul Gauguin and Henri
Matisse who found inspiration in Tahiti may be long gone, but the wonders of
these magical islands, from the exotic aroma of the native tiare flower, to
the windex-blue water and the warmth of the Tahitians, continue to enchant
visitors.
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