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Welcome Aboard!

French Polynesia Aboard the Paul Gauguin

By Katie McElveen

In Paul Gauguin’s day, visiting Tahiti and her sister islands in French Polynesia wasn’t just difficult, it was downright dangerous, requiring not only months aboard a creaky wooden ship, but bad food and the ever-constant threat of pirates to boot.

Today, thanks to Gauguin’s namesake--the Radisson Seven Seas’ super-luxury cruise ship m/s Paul Gauguin--the most that 21st century travelers have to worry about is where to have dinner.   That’s because this ship is home to three restaurants:  L’Etoile, which serves food not normally seen on a cruise ship, delicious classic-yet-modern cuisine with interesting Polynesian touches; Apicius, overseen by Michelin-starred chef Jean-Pierre Vigato and features food so creative it would be impressive even on the mainland and Pacific Grill, a casual spot serving Asian-inspired dishes.  At all meals, surprisingly good wine (the ship is, after all, French) flows freely. 

Best of all, passengers are free to decide where to eat, when and with whom. 

Still think cruising is all about midnight buffets, hairy chest contests, early dinner seatings and shuffleboard?  It may be time to re-evaluate.  On a stylish and sophisticated ship like the Paul Gauguin, passengers—guests, actually--enter a universe of sublime food, considerate and discreet service, innovative spa treatments and room service. 

“We deal in hundreds of people, not thousands,” notes Radisson’s PR chief Andrew Poulton.  “The intimacy of the Paul Gauguin allows us to create an atmosphere that’s different from that of any other ship.” 

For passengers, that difference means that this Rolls Royce on the ocean is more five-star resort than cruise ship.  Breakfast, or just coffee, or any meal for that matter, can be enjoyed on the private balconies that enhance most of the rooms.  Have lunch by the pool in your bathing suit, or enjoy the view from the airy Veranda restaurant.  The country-club casual dress code means no ties, blazers or evening gowns are ever required.

Shipboard activities are surprisingly varied.  Indoor types can take in a lecture on Polynesian history or culture, work off that Tahitian-vanilla crème brulee at the small but well-equipped fitness center or even learn to speak French.  Worked out a little too hard?  Have a massage at the on-board spa, where you’ll be kneaded into a state of bliss within seconds.  It’s a luxury well worth taking the time to enjoy.  Of course, there are movies, a well-stocked library, sundeck complete with comfy lounge chairs and pina coladas and, of course, a pool.

For water sports enthusiasts, the Paul Gauguin has an interesting trick up its sleeve:  During the day, an innocent-looking panel on the ship’s stern lowers to form, voila!, a water sports deck.  Passengers are free to take the ship’s kayaks, snorkeling equipment or windsurfers out for a spin.  Amazingly, there’s enough room for a speedboat too, so water skiing is also available.

And that’s just on and around the ship.  For those of the short attention span who can’t make it through a 30-minute television program without punching the remote control, the Paul Gauguin, with its five-island itinerary, brings not just a different breathtaking view off your balcony every day, but a surprisingly intriguing group of shore excursions too.  Want adventure?  Swim with sharks and sting rays in Bora Bora with nothing between you and them but the glass in your mask, or take a four-wheel off road safari into the heart of Moorea.  Those not quite so adrenaline driven will find plenty to do as well, including island tours in air conditioned vehicles hosted by local naturalists or historians, snorkeling in calm, protected waters or a visit to one of the area’s famed black pearl farms.

For many passengers, the Paul Gauguin doubles as a dive ship, allowing them to scuba dive at spots on each island.  It’s a popular activity: according to Poulton, between 20 and 30 people participate in the dive program each week, exploring the region’s famed coral formations with black tip sharks, tropical fish in every color and even elusive moray eels.  There’s an on-board dive school, too, and since the Paul Gauguin is a licensed PADI Resort, it meets international safety standards are observed.

Built in 1997, the 513-foot Paul Gauguin is considered a moderately sized ship.  For its 320 passengers, that’s a good thing.  Not only can the ship slip in and out of the lagoons that surround each island, but it can anchor close enough to shore that a trip onto whatever island the ship is visiting is usually a five minute ride away on the covered launch.

Even if you choose not to participate in organized shore excursions, it’s well worth it to tear yourself away from the on-board pampering and explore these exotic islands.  Since the islands are mountainous, they offer stunning views from a number of fairly accessible lookout points.  Getting around is easy:  most towns have car and bicycle rentals just a few steps from the dock.  Visit galleries and see the impact Paul Gauguin’s work had on local artists, shop for unique mementoes such as vanilla beans from the island of Taha’a and more than likely find a strip of powdery white sand to call your own.  While you’re feeling adventuresome, have lunch at one of the many snack shops that dot the roads.  If you’re not driving, wash down lunch with a Hinano, the local beer.  It’s delicious. 

About the Area

French Polynesia comprises five archipelagos, or island groups, with 118 islands in all.    It’s located halfway between California and Australia, just south of the equator.  The Paul Gauguin cruises through the Society Islands and makes port at Raiatea, Taha’a, Bora Bora and Moorea. 

Even for travelers who’ve visited other island paradises, the beauty of French Polynesia is stunning.  Traveling by water makes it even more so.  Early risers get the first glimpse of each new island, a jagged silhouette rising out of the ocean.  As the ship draws closer and enters the lagoon, the water changes color, from ink-dark to a million shades of blue and green, and so does the island, transforming from misty grey to lush green.  At night, the sky lights up with a whole new world of stars as constellations like the Southern Cross and Scorpio can be seen clearly with the naked eye.  For residents of the Northern Hemisphere, it’s a treat. 

It’s even more of a treat when the staff of the Paul Gauguin, having noticed a number of stargazers one night, made the decision to improve viewing by turning off the lights on the top deck each night for an hour or so.  That thoughtful gesture, small as it was, illustrates the attentive service that makes a cruise on the Paul Gauguin a nearly perfect experience.

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